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I was speaking with RR to order some 187 BIB bullets last week, and asked his recommendations on twist and velocities. Among other things, he said bullet blowups (by any manufacturer) can be a tight-barrel problem. As I remember, he and a friend had two identical guns with the same barrels...

Jeff, if I could ask what case/capacity/chamber you are using with the 187 BIB bullets? Twist and velocity?

So if I may ask opinions again for clarity--would optimum neck thickness be at .013, .014 or .015? Accuracy being first priority. Jerry

357-- It was an old post of yours that explained your method that finally got me going. I had the short 284 idea for about 6 months, I even considered having a special forming die made to neck the brass down. When I saw your post, I took the plunge. It works perfect, but because the Lapua...

Nice Work. Yeah, that's the puppy. The 260AI was my first choice with 57 grains. I'm thinking short and fat may be more efficient then the 260AI, but yes, it is much more work. Certainly the brass will be overkill. We will see. Life is too short to do it the easy way. Jerry

I'm making a short 6.5x284, about 48mm high. After improving it, it will be close to 57 water grains. At this stage it's 54.5 grains with a 25 degree shoulder and .300 long neck. I'm getting the brass close enough so I can order the reamer. I hadn't considered uneven tension variance with...

I noticed a lot of 6.5x284 shooters use Winchester brass, apparently it does well in competition with some prep. Those of you who use Winchester, any complaints or problems with this brass?

I am sizing down some Lapua brass to make a 6.5 wildcat (I know, I know) and I have the luxury of .022 thick brass at the neck to play with. I was thinking of turning to .015-.016, but wondered if there is an accuracy disadvantage with thick necks. Or is it an advantage? Anyone?

I'm trying to find some 130 JLK's. Does anyone know of a dealer who stocks that item? The J4 jacket shortage has Swampy running behind on 6.5's. Thanks Jerry

Yes, 140 grain are too heavy---unless you have .180 to .200 freebore, and/or use Reloder 17. I use a 130 shooting 1000yd benchrest.

I have the H & H tool, it's great, and I can lessen assembled round runout easily. Lately, though, I am concerned that any straightening--even one push--can change neck tension. So I'm adding a variable that may or may not be worse than runout. I am shooting 1000yd, and use .003 neck tension...

Nice. Who did the hardening on the die?

Actually, it's 1.2 degrees. I have a digital level. (Maybe that's the problem.)

When the forend flat of my new rifle is perfectly horizontal, my action is one degree canted. (My fault when bedding) I'm shooting 1000 yard benchrest. What's the best fix? Canting the rest seems tacky. Leave the rifle level and just level the scope? If I do that, my scope is out of...

If I could I ask then, what functions as a recoil lug with a block setup? Is the barrel stepped down at the block so it has a shoulder to hit the block? Or is the clamping force enough to keep the barrel from moving?

Lynn, thank you. That's the direction I'd like to go. However, my preference is for a split barrel block. Can you or anyone recommend a source, or a machinist who would make one?

Actually I'm building a Heavy Gun. I'm just trying to decide between straight or tapered, which is typically more accurate. I'm leaning to the Straight to get the extra weight, unless it comes at the expense of accuracy. That's the question.

I'm building a Heavy Gun with an 8" BAT VR single shot 1.375" diam action (basically a Remington 700) and a 32" long 1.25" straight barrel. I'm concerned about hanging that much weight off just a pillar and bedded short action in a laminate stock. So I was considering using a Whidden aluminum...

Looking for opinions on what is more accurate: A 31" 1.25 straight, or a 31" 1.25 for 4" tapered down to 1" muzzle? The caliber is 6.5 x284. Thanks

I'm running a 6.5x47 Ackley Improved, and would like to measure the case capacity to compare it to the stock cartridge. Everyone talks about grains of water, but what's a good method of adding/measuring/weighing? Just fill them both and weigh them?