Wind Flags

I'm wanting to purchase some wind flags for shooting score at 100, 200, & 300 yds, and have about 20 questions. How many flags should I use at these yardages? Do you set them up differently for different yardages? I'm looking at the Graham flags. Are the XL vanes flags big enough to see between 200 and 300 yds (not looking thru the scope)? Should I get the standard vane flags for the closer yardages, or get the XL vanes on all of them? What colors do you use? Should I use poles or stands, and where can I get them? Thanks!
 
I'm wanting to purchase some wind flags for shooting score at 100, 200, & 300 yds, and have about 20 questions. How many flags should I use at these yardages? Do you set them up differently for different yardages? I'm looking at the Graham flags. Are the XL vanes flags big enough to see between 200 and 300 yds (not looking thru the scope)? Should I get the standard vane flags for the closer yardages, or get the XL vanes on all of them? What colors do you use? Should I use poles or stands, and where can I get them? Thanks!


Not only do I and most other flag makers make flags, but we shoot. At 100 yards, you will need 3-4 flags. at 200 yds, you will need 5-6. At 300 yards you will need 6-7 flags. At the longer ranges, the last 2 or 3 flags ARE going to be in you scope, so, if your brain can process the images, you do NOT need larger flags. But if you have to see things out of your left eye (right-hand shooter) then you would find larger flags out at the longer distances to your advantage.

As for poles vs stands, I am grossly biased to poles. I have shot at ranges from Wa. state to Maryland to TN. to MN to TX.. I have never been unable to get a spike in the ground on my poles. And I have had a couple occasions where my flags were the only ones still standing after a severe T-storm/ mini tornado came thru.

Check out FlyingFishFundamentals.com

David
 
+1 for David's flags and especially for his poles. I have a set from him and another set of poles which uses screws to lock in the extensions (the FFF poles are a twist, extend, and twist to lock system if that makes sense?). I only use then screw type on rare applications where I need a very short pole (2' or less) now and try to use David's poles exclusively. Dad and I toss a coin on who's flags we will use that day as I started out with Graham flags and have a full set and I got him a full set of FFF flags. You can't miss with either....well, you can miss but it isn't the flag's fault!
The poles are well made and will not get a flag tail hung up in the middle of a match...There is nothing as disturbing to your line of sight than a tail wrapped around a pole or one that has fallen over and you can NOT set upright.
The other benefit is that they can be made to extend to 15' or higher if needed and they pack down to about 4' or so. David is great to work with and can set you up with whatever you need.
Mike
 
Bill, Smiley is still making flags. My son just ordered a set. If you want his number, send me a pm.

Joe
 
The only advantage I see with tripods is that on the less windy days, you can just drop them out there and forget about it. Poles always require you to bring your stakes and hammer and kneel down to pound them in. All else about them is superior.

As to Graham's flags, yes, they are top notch. I use his flat top flags in the flourescent green/orange configuration. My vanes are standard size and their design allows you to get them closer to the target card than the other flags that have the pivot in the middle or bottom of the vane. If I was shooting 300 yards alot, I'd get two XL vanes for 175 and 225 yards. For 200 on in, the standard are fine for my eyes (which are better than 20/20).
To get the Grahams, just simply call up Rick. Super friendly guy and he'll actually answer his phone!
As for how many to order, that's simply up to you but David's numbers are good guidelines. Just don't overdue it because information overload is a real problem.
 
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Thanks for the input guys. I spoke with Dave Halblom today and have decide to go with his flags. I'm thinking green and orange single vane with pink sail tails. What do you think about this color combination? I haven't decided if I want daisies - what would you guys recommend? Not sure if it matters, but I'll be shooting 100, 200, and 300yd center fire for score and 50yd rimfire.
 
I use florescent pink and green. I made mine the large vanes since my eyes are not what they used to be. For me the pink is actually easier to see than the orange.
 
I normally use the Hood double vanes fitted with ball bearing heads I made. In windy conditions like we normally have here, the doubles can make it a easier to see the exact angle...helpful for Score shooting when conditions aren't exactly run and gun. Here's a six pack of my Hoods...if you look closely you can see the bearing tops.

f2.jpg


f1-1.jpg



I also have a set of Harris single vanes and like them a lot. Last season, I started using a custom made set of 'airfoil' single vanes with no daisies and find them pretty nice in lighter conditions. Generally, I bring the doubles and the airfoils to a match and decide there what to use.

Good shootin'. -Al
 
Al very impressive wind flags, by chance do they some how break down for transportation.

I like the addition of the probe on the first one is it dampened.

J.Louis
 
Louis, I don't break them down, though they could easily come apart. They all fit into a plastic tote...they do take up a bit more room than a flat design. -Al
 
Al,
Why are there no ribbons? Because of the prevalence of light conditions where I shoot, I replaced mine with two lengths of surveyor's tape.

Louis,
As far as knocking down goes, they do and I do, every time...many times, with no problems.

Boyd
 
I got tired of assembling and disassembling mine so I finally went with single vane Grahams. I tried to transport my Hoods assembled but they took up too much room in a truck that had the kitchen sink in there somewhere too.
 
Al
what do you think of the bearings? I have a good friend who also put bearings on the pivot and they really respond to those light conditions. I think it looks like a great idea. Thanks for sharing. Lee
 
Another issue that relates to light condition responsiveness is whether the pivot is perfectly plumb (straight up and down). If I remember correctly, Jackie posted that he uses inexpensive video tripods (like the cheapest ones that Radio Shack sells) as stands for his wind flags. He makes a pivot pin that screws to the top of the tripod, and uses its adjustments to plumb the pivot. With that, even if his flags are out of balance, they will not fall to the same position every time when the wind stops. Personally, I don't use daisy wheels any more, and focus most of my attention on the ribbons in light and switchy conditions, since the ribbon will show a change first.
 
Mike Ezell Also make some nice flags. You might check them out to. Mike post frequently on these boards, and he is a stand up fella. Lee
 
I use a ball swivel on top of my stands.

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This is the level that I use with the ball swivels. It is important to have them perpendicular.

2rh8k9c.jpg


This is 6 flags, poles, and a level in an attache case.

10mvqxi.jpg
 
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