Suggestions to Prevent Scope Creep in Rings

M

MBrenner

Guest
Have a bench gun with a Panda action, Kelbly 30 mm double rings with lowers lapped, and a new Valdada scope on a 30BR. I carefully cleaned both scope and rings and mounted the scope with a drop of fingernail polish on each lower ring. I then tightened both rings as I have for the past fifteen years for no scope creep, careful to even out the ring's side space, certainly not touching. This was actually my second attempt to mount this Valdada because it creeped the first time, hence the fingernail polish to prevent movement. Unfortunately, it creeped again in the next match, not as much as the first time, but enough to effect my score. I'm hesitant to tighten the rings even more for fear of damaging the scope tube, so I would appreciate any suggestions. The Valdada is a really nice scope and I would like to use it! Thanks for your thoughts.
 
Can you put the rear ring where it's just in front of where the tube diameter is bigger..ie, just in front of variable knob..etc? if all else fails, either a third ring or Burris Signature rings. Personally, if it were mine, I'd make sure everything is as it should be and tighten it till it doesn't move. A scope that won't stay put has little value to me..with or without ring marks.
 
try

a sticky paper mailing address label. Trim the edges with an exacto knife. Works! Also I have had only one set of Kelbly rings that gave me trouble. They would not lock down on my two stolle actions. They were out of spec and I returned them for a replacement. Kelblys was great about the service. Have you measured dimensions of these problem rings against a set that you know works?
 
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MBrenner said:
Have a bench gun with a Panda action, Kelbly 30 mm double rings with lowers lapped, and a new Valdada scope on a 30BR. I carefully cleaned both scope and rings and mounted the scope with a drop of fingernail polish on each lower ring. I then tightened both rings as I have for the past fifteen years for no scope creep, careful to even out the ring's side space, certainly not touching. This was actually my second attempt to mount this Valdada because it creeped the first time, hence the fingernail polish to prevent movement. Unfortunately, it creeped again in the next match, not as much as the first time, but enough to effect my score. I'm hesitant to tighten the rings even more for fear of damaging the scope tube, so I would appreciate any suggestions. The Valdada is a really nice scope and I would like to use it! Thanks for your thoughts.
Click to expand...

Look at the ends of the rings where the top and base come together. There should be a visible gap on at least one end. If there is no gap on either end then either the rings bore is too big or the scope body is undersize.

Kelblys recommendation for ring caps is to tighten "till you almost strip the threads". You probably don't have the screws tight enough. I have Kekbly 2-screw rings on some hard kicking rifles using 6x24-50 scopes and they don't slip.

.
 
Thanks everyone for some very interesting suggestions, especially Boyd's link for some creative ideas. It talked about using Permatex Form-A-Seal (either # 2 or # 3) instead of rubber cement, so I think I will go with that. Pretty ingenious idea, actually. I can't see any downsides as it should lock the scope in solidly and may also prevent ring marks. Nice!

Appreciate the suggestions!!
 
Slipping scope...

Had a T/C Contender .44, wound up using "batter's resin" to stop the scope from slipping...........worked great! I shot many,many really heavy loads in that T/C and never had any more problems.
I highly recommend dusting upper and lowers. Dan
 
i say quit trying band-aids.
one of two things..
defective rings or not torqued properly..that means a torque wrench so you KNOW not GUESS.

IF CORRECT TORQUE WILL NOT TOLD THE SCOPE, call the maker of the rings.
 
Bed the scope tube to the rings (bottoms and tops). Bedding compound with some Nylon filler works well (Acra Glas gel) as it gives some flexibility when the tops are tightened.

It doesn't never not work (Northern Plains triple negative intentional).;)

 
glp said:
a sticky paper mailing address label. Trim the edges with an exacto knife. Works!

I second that. When securing work for machining it is amazing how much a piece of notepaper between the work and the vice or clamps can improve the grip. Simple and cheap. Otherwise, as already said, send the rings back.

* doghunter *
Click to expand...
 
Try thinking inside the box.
Quit trying to fix the SYMPTOMS
and fix the actual problem.
Nearly every response has been wrong in that they
are attacking the symptoms, not the problem.
 
Using a 1.000" bar (ground, not turned), this is pretty typical contact pattern from ring tops. This was done after the ring bottoms had been bedded to the scope tube. The black is the area that's not in contact with the scope tube:



Measuring the tube diameters of high quality 1.00" tube scopes (Leupold, Weaver, etc.), I've seen .994 to 1.003. Just taking' stuff out of the box and tossin' it on, you'll be lucky to have 50% tube/ring contact, regardless of scope or ring brand.
 
Properly mount and prepare the rings = lapping etc.

Before placing the scope in the rings apply "Rubber Cement" to the top and lower rings.

Mount scope. Yes the some of the rubber cement will squish out. Let it dry and rub it off with your finger.

This method will not scratch the scope finish such as using rosin etc.

I been using this method for more than 30 years on Springers to 375 H&H. It works great!

Best wishes.
 
Lap them, then bed them as Al suggests. When you bed, make sure you leave a space between the halves, which might not be there to begin with,
 
gpoldblue said:
Had a T/C Contender .44, wound up using "batter's resin" to stop the scope from slipping...........worked great! I shot many,many really heavy loads in that T/C and never had any more problems.
I highly recommend dusting upper and lowers. Dan
Click to expand...

yup........... RESIN
bil
 
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