Best carbon cleaner?

Worker said:
Hey Big Al. You gotta use Nylon brushes. They work better then brass or copper brushes.
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No thank you. I've tried both ways, with nylon bore brush and without. I'll stick to what works best for me, thank you. The time between relays is not a consideration.:D
 
Well that's interersting.

I pushed plain patches to get the RG-12 out. Then wetted a patch with Butches and it came out white. Shot at the range after that to fowl the barrel in anticipation for this weekends coyote hunt.I was getting 3/4 MOA with 55gr V-max at 100. That's good for my RRAs coyote upper AR-15 off sand bags at 100 yds.
 
Really clean barrels..

It is always interesting to go back and clean a barrel you have already cleaned a few days or weeks earlier.

Often I have a customer come in and say I have cleaned my barrel. I'll ask them to wait for a minute and clean their barrel again with GM Top Engine cleaner mixed with Marvil Mystery Oil. and a nylon brush. Then follow up with Montana Extreme for copper.

One customers barrel took 42 patches to finally come out clean. I clean the nylon brushes in a bottle between strokes down the barrel. No need to run a dirty brush down the bore. I do not bring any brushes backward through the muzzle.

I still use the old formula GM Top Engine cleaner product number 1#1050002.
It is not the same formula as the new GM Top Engine Cleaner.

I would be interested to know about the Subaru Top Engine cleaner as the old GM Formula is getting difficult to find.

Nat Lambeth
 
Rustystud said:
I would be interested to know about the Subaru Top Engine cleaner as the old GM Formula is getting difficult to find.

Nat Lambeth
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Nate, I haven't personally used the Subaru TEC, but a few of the guys use it, SeaFoam and the stuff Mercury outboard dealers sell. I forget the name of it at the moment. They claim those products work as well as the GM TEC they used previously.

Bill
 
The one thing we all seem to have in common, we are all in favor of clean barrels. For this I salute all of you.

I don't use nylon because it makes no difference to the cleaning time or can I see a difference with or without the brush. With a bronze brush I have observed that the brush dissolved with the bore cleaner.

The big thing I have found with the KG-1 and the KG-12 is, I can go back after the initial cleaning weeks later and get nothing else out of the bore. I do not have to kill with alcohol upon completion of cleaning. I buy and use the bulk pack of patches from Brownells. I think they do a fine job of fitting the bore using a jag. I know that cleaning the cleaning rod after each pass makes a lot of difference.

I went through the GM upper engine cleaner to the tune of a gallon. I made Ed's red I have gone through the Montana Extreme, Butches Bore shine. For me the thing that has worked is the KG- products.


Yes I keep the KG products in the highest regard. I don't own but what is in the bottles. No stock in the company. Just happy to share my results. Is this the only thing that works? It is the only thing that allows me to get a clean barrel in fifteen minutes.
 
I understand that this is an old horse, but I also use GM top cleaner.

Rustystud said:
It is always interesting to go back and clean a barrel you have already cleaned a few days or weeks earlier.

Often I have a customer come in and say I have cleaned my barrel. I'll ask them to wait for a minute and clean their barrel again with GM Top Engine cleaner mixed with Marvil Mystery Oil. and a nylon brush. Then follow up with Montana Extreme for copper.

One customers barrel took 42 patches to finally come out clean. I clean the nylon brushes in a bottle between strokes down the barrel. No need to run a dirty brush down the bore. I do not bring any brushes backward through the muzzle.

I still use the old formula GM Top Engine cleaner product number 1#1050002.
It is not the same formula as the new GM Top Engine Cleaner.

I would be interested to know about the Subaru Top Engine cleaner as the old GM Formula is getting difficult to find.

Nat Lambeth
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I was curious about the amount of mixture that you prefer with the Mystery oil for cleaning????

jim
 
Big Al said:
The one thing we all seem to have in common, we are all in favor of clean barrels. For this I salute all of you.

I don't use nylon because it makes no difference to the cleaning time or can I see a difference with or without the brush. With a bronze brush I have observed that the brush dissolved with the bore cleaner.

The big thing I have found with the KG-1 and the KG-12 is, I can go back after the initial cleaning weeks later and get nothing else out of the bore. I do not have to kill with alcohol upon completion of cleaning. I buy and use the bulk pack of patches from Brownells. I think they do a fine job of fitting the bore using a jag. I know that cleaning the cleaning rod after each pass makes a lot of difference.

I went through the GM upper engine cleaner to the tune of a gallon. I made Ed's red I have gone through the Montana Extreme, Butches Bore shine. For me the thing that has worked is the KG- products.


Yes I keep the KG products in the highest regard. I don't own but what is in the bottles. No stock in the company. Just happy to share my results. Is this the only thing that works? It is the only thing that allows me to get a clean barrel in fifteen minutes.
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It would be great to hear your cleaning regiment with the kG products, patching, brushing, etc. KG12 is so different than other products.

Thanks
 
Wipeout vs. KG-1 and KG-12

I'm a confirmed user of Wipeout products, especially the foam and Accelerator. Has anyone compared them with the KG products, which I'm not familiar with? Do the KG products have any toxic warnings? Will they eat your stock finish or your skin?

You guys make the KG stuff sound pretty easy to use and fast, too.
 
I used all but the KG-12 and found nothing that would take out carbon and copper like Warthog 1134………. jim
 
Unobtanium

Googled it. Sounds like another legendary product elevated to mythic status due to unavailability. Looks like hazmat regs did it in.
 
Al, It is made in ND. and one of the chemicals is on the hazmat list and he will not ship it anymore. If you need more info. PM Donovan he knows more about it. He turned me on to years ago and have used it with great success. It doesn't hurt anything and you don't soak anything, 15 min you are done with both guns……… cleaning rod will only go down the barrel a dozen times... one way!…… jim
 
For carbon, I still believe Ed's Red is about as good as it gets. I think it's as good as the GM TEC...maybe better, has been around for a long time.
 
The KG12 copper cleaner works well, but I prefer the Wipeout and Accelerator for it's blue indication of copper. Both seem to work well, but for an extremely copper fouled barrel, I think the KG12 has a slight edge.
 
jim1K said:
Al, It is made in ND. and one of the chemicals is on the hazmat list and he will not ship it anymore. If you need more info. PM Donovan he knows more about it. He turned me on to years ago and have used it with great success. It doesn't hurt anything and you don't soak anything, 15 min you are done with both guns……… cleaning rod will only go down the barrel a dozen times... one way!…… jim
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I have everything else mentioned here and about 20 others..... I've never found anything to "cut carbon." I've tried stuff that in the pictures casually cleaned off choke tubes, AR-15 parts, pistons and valves, casenecks, space shuttle tiles and melted lunar regolith.

But it done NUTTIN' for me.....

need me some warthog

al
 
Wipeout Gets it All, Eventually

Bought a 1917 Remington Enfield the other day. 96 years old and I'm not sure it was ever cleaned! Has strong rifling with moderate pitting. The bore scope showed CHUNKS of copper and lots of 'em. Five days of continuous applications of Accelerator and Wipeout, 3 or more applications every 24 hours, finally got it all out. The bulk of the carbon came out in the first few applications. Then it was days of solid blue patches. It is absolutely clean now. I'm thinking of applying Dyna-Tek to it so future cleanings are not onerous.

This 1917 has good blue and no rust, so I'm restoring it. The stock had been cut and was cracked, so I bought new stocks from Boyd's and all necessary hardware from Gun Parts Corporation. I think it's going to be a looker and a shooter when I'm done.
 
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