Another neck turning thread.

Jim guess I'll put in my two cents, I start the first cut with a Sinclair, and finish with a Hart, which I have use for about thirty years. If the Hart you have is like mine its heavy and with my big hands is much easier to hold. And it does an excellent job. I also use sizing wax to keep the heat down. I also finish up the cut with 0000 steel wool and polish the inside of necks.

Joe Salt
 
Jim guess I'll put in my two cents, I start the first cut with a Sinclair, and finish with a Hart, which I have use for about thirty years. If the Hart you have is like mine its heavy and with my big hands is much easier to hold. And it does an excellent job. I also use sizing wax to keep the heat down. I also finish up the cut with 0000 steel wool and polish the inside of necks.

Joe Salt

Thanks Joe, I had guessed that the large cutter of the Hart would make a nice cut, and the construction would mitigate chatter. Are you able to split the hash lines and get consistent tolerances under the advertised .001?

Jim
 
Jim I have never had a problem with my Hart or the Sinclair for that matter. But the Hart does have a nice Micrometer adjustment. And once you get it were you want it, lock it. Works for me! And if you already have these tools try them. Just don't get in a hurry setting them up.

Joe salt
 
Jim I have never had a problem with my Hart or the Sinclair for that matter. But the Hart does have a nice Micrometer adjustment. And once you get it were you want it, lock it. Works for me! And if you already have these tools try them. Just don't get in a hurry setting them up.

Joe salt

I don't have them yet, I found a JACO, and Hart still sells theirs as well as Time. I'm going to get the JACO first and then the other two. I'll put up some pictures of the JACO when I get it and start using it, there don't seem to be more than 2 on the net. I'm looking forward to spending a few hours ruining a few cases to get it set up, I've got some old .243 brass that's ripe for the mauling!

Jim
 
Al,

Were a body to mic the turning mandrel and have Wilson grind a corresponding mandrel to .0005 over be a reasonable way to go to avoid that problem?

Also, is the body of the Time turner steel or aluminum? Does the cutter leave an acceptably smooth finish? These were my only real concerns with it. The idea and practice of steel and carbide cutters and mandrels mated to an aluminum body makes me uneasy.

Thank you for your reply.

Yes, that's what I did.

Body of Time is AL, and quite large. I asked Art Cocchia "why so big?" and he said "because we have hands"

In answer to your concerns (and mine) I always keep the turner setting in water between turnings. I feel strongly that if it's allowed to materially change temperature during use it'll change dimensionally...... whether it's assembled from AL, steel, Titanium or unobtanium.


I obtain (require) a beautiful finish on my necks. I use carbide mandrels. I grind/sharpen/hone my own cutting edges and use engine assembly lube on the mandrel. I keep a thin film of the lube on a flat surface (lid or plate) and dip the neck to get about 1/10" of lube on the casemouth, just a little ring of lubricant.

When I'm done I walk over and blow everything dry with the airhose and put it away. I've never been troubled by rusting but I live in WA, it's not humid nor salty.

hth

al
 
Jim...if you're....

Still interested in the JACO tool and if he's still available, AJ Walker still has a few. His number is 512 836 0203. He manufactured them under the TJ Jackson design. They are expensive, but for "first pass" quality they can't be beat.

virg
 
I spoke with him a little earlier today, and believe I got the last one he has Virg, thank you for the heads up!

Al, I like the way you think. Heat does affect all metals, and if they aren't kept a consistent temp it's physically impossible to get repeatable results. I will heed your advice about the water and engine assembly lube as well. Thank you for the wisdom.

Jim
 
http://benchrest.com/showthread.php?88604-Another-neck-turning-thread

I think it takes a long pilot in carbide, carbide blade, 2 steps of turning (for the 1st just a NT Sinclair 1000) but the important thing is the expander FL because it lowers the shoulder to the right size by turning. I use oil for steel and 78 rps for my turnings.Allego pic del Jaco
 

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Wow, after reading all of this, and I am going to give no neck turn a try this year.

Sort of the other end of the spectrum.........jackie
 
I actually ordered a tight neck so I could turn necks. I've been loading for the past 10 years and never needed to turn necks, so I decided to give it (along with BR) a legitimate try and have some fun.

Jim
 
I'm only in it to enjoy myself. If I had the money to put a Monarch 10EE in my garage I'd be using that, but I retired from the Army and can't afford it right now.
The Monarch 10EE is grossly overpriced, IMO, and as a gunsmith lathe the headstock is too long.
 
As been said here, all the neck turners operate about the same. I started with a Sinclair, found the expanders and mandrels weren't matched very well. So I made a bunch myself.That helped a lot.

Then I bought a K&M with the carbide mandrel, and never looked back. The carbide mandrel makes a BIG difference, and the expanders match very well.
 
I do not have a heat issue when turning, and it is my opinion that those that do have expander mandrels that are too small for their turning mandrels, and are turning too fast. For brass for my .262 neck chambers, I take two cuts. The first one comes within .001 or so of the final thickness. I do this with an old Sinclair tool that has a smaller mandrel than I would use for a finish cut. This does away with all brassing and heat issues, and any inaccuracy will be taken care of on the finish cut. The final cut fit is eased by the removal of that material. I have an old Makita drill that I use to turn with, with the gear box set for low range, and the trigger not fully pulled. I make the finish cut with a K&M with a carbide mandrel, and would not go back to steel for that application. I check every neck with my neck mic., after finish turning. Technique is also important. I intentionally feed to the shoulder much too rapidly to make a clean cut, so that I am cutting all the way back to the case mouth, which I do at a very slow feed rate. This keeps the neck securely pinned to the mandrel the whole time that the cutter is on the neck, which is what you want for consistent thickness. After, I finish turning, I wrap some 0000 around the neck and spin it at a the fastest RPM in the slow range for about a second, Then I measure. My results are good, and that validates my procedure. One last thing: I used a K&M case driver for years before switching to a 21st Century. The difference is night and day. I get almost no wobble, and securing the case by hand is not a problem. It works a lot better.
 
They all work about the same and do the same thing. Find the cheapest one you can and start cuttin'.

Whether or not you need an even neck all around remains up for grabs. Get one and have fun while you still can. Sorry I don't have more info.


Good advice. Neck turning tools are not on the winners equipment list.




Glenn
 
Friggin Wilbur ennyways....... why's he always do that?? Inject logic and reason into what could be a nice fracas? Don't he know he's s'posed to tout the advertiser that spe...


Ahh fuhgeddabou'dit

al
 
I do not have a heat issue when turning, and it is my opinion that those that do have expander mandrels that are too small for their turning mandrels, and are turning too fast. For brass for my .262 neck chambers, I take two cuts. The first one comes within .001 or so of the final thickness. I do this with an old Sinclair tool that has a smaller mandrel than I would use for a finish cut. This does away with all brassing and heat issues, and any inaccuracy will be taken care of on the finish cut. The final cut fit is eased by the removal of that material. I have an old Makita drill that I use to turn with, with the gear box set for low range, and the trigger not fully pulled. I make the finish cut with a K&M with a carbide mandrel, and would not go back to steel for that application. I check every neck with my neck mic., after finish turning. Technique is also important. I intentionally feed to the shoulder much too rapidly to make a clean cut, so that I am cutting all the way back to the case mouth, which I do at a very slow feed rate. This keeps the neck securely pinned to the mandrel the whole time that the cutter is on the neck, which is what you want for consistent thickness. After, I finish turning, I wrap some 0000 around the neck and spin it at a the fastest RPM in the slow range for about a second, Then I measure. My results are good, and that validates my procedure. One last thing: I used a K&M case driver for years before switching to a 21st Century. The difference is night and day. I get almost no wobble, and securing the case by hand is not a problem. It works a lot better.

This is very helpful, thank you.

I went with a JACO turner because I like the adjustability of it and the history behind it. From all accounts it's a great tool, and I'll find out for myself here very shortly.

I wouldn't have known to advance the case quickly and turn slowly to the mouth, so thank you for that tidbit. I plan on putting the JACO in my Versa Vise and using my cordless drill to turn the cases with the 21st Century case driver.

Something I've seen a lot of conflicting opinions on:

Size and trim cases before turning, fire form then size trim and turn, or another order? I get the feeling there are a bunch of different answers and opinions, and I'd like to hear them.

Another thing, turning case necks with a taper. I know the JACO will turn a taper into the neck, but can be adjusted for a straight cut. Is there any consensus on advantages/disadvantages to a taper? I'm looking for personal or close second hand experience with them, and quantifiable information.
 
The Monarch 10EE is grossly overpriced, IMO, and as a gunsmith lathe the headstock is too long.

Most of the smithing I do is on 1911's, I'm out of my depth with rifle barrels. Single pointing a .45 chamber and crowning is about as much as I can do on a lathe right now. Which lathes will match the precision of a 10EE with an appropriately sized headstock for rifle barrels? I've looked into the Rivett 1020S and Hardinge HLV-H, I have a thing for older equipment that's made in America. Any input would be appreciated.
 
The Monarch 10EE is grossly overpriced, IMO, and as a gunsmith lathe the headstock is too long.

Plus one on that. Ours has the 6 station turrent instead of the tail stock, and all we use it for is a small turrent lathe.

There are much better lathes suited for Gunsmith work.
 
Plus one on that. Ours has the 6 station turrent instead of the tail stock, and all we use it for is a small turrent lathe.

There are much better lathes suited for Gunsmith work.

Recommendations would be greatly appreciated.

Jim
 
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