6 PPC from 220 Russian Lapua

I have expanded, turned, loaded and fired many pieces to blow out to PPC. In my opinion, nothing beats filling a 220 Russian to the bottom of the neck with a fast pistol powder (check loading the brass first, a zero headspace chamber will require a small bump to close the bolt, they are like an Ackley chamber, they pinch on closing the bolt,) I stuff the neck full of tight fitting paper towel, and fire. The brass blows out great, and STRAIGHT, expand and turn necks from there.
 
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I’m not sure what you guys have for chambers, etc. Expand, turn and load doesn’t fit my rifle. I had to FL Size.

After my first round, I’m going to FL Size until it just closes the bolt, expand, trim, turn. I ended up doing that with my first 10 also.
 
glp said:
ammo, just pull out the 50 case divider from the underside of the lid and snap it in the lower box....instant ammo case.
Click to expand...
use 22 hornet plastic boxes just perfect use top over loaded rounds put emptys bullet end first you can throw a mile wont hurt any.
 
Wayne Shaw said:
I have expanded, turned, loaded and fired many pieces to blow out to PPC. In my opinion, nothing beats filling a 220 Russian to the bottom of the neck with a fast pistol powder (check loading the brass first, a zero headspace chamber will require a small bump to close the bolt, they are like an Ackley chamber, they pinch on closing the bolt,) I stuff the neck full of tight fitting paper towel, and fire. The brass blows out great, and STRAIGHT, expand and turn necks from there.
Click to expand...

Wayne, I have a blow out barrel with a screw on breach that I use.

I fill a 220 Russian up with 133, seat a chap 22 caliber bullet, and fire it into a big insulation roll. It just goes “thump”, and blows them out ready to neck turn.

Your pistol powder is just as good. The main thing is to arrive at a nice straight and or formed PPC.
 
nksmfamjp said:
I’m not sure what you guys have for chambers, etc. Expand, turn and load doesn’t fit my rifle. I had to FL Size.

After my first round, I’m going to FL Size until it just closes the bolt, expand, trim, turn. I ended up doing that with my first 10 also.
Click to expand...

There is not really a “standard” 6PPC chamber when it comes to Short Range BENCHREST Shooters. Some do require you to bump the shoulder back a tad to allow the bolt to close freely.

It’s no big deal.
 
So, yesterday, I had 2 in 10 that wouldn’t fire. I sized them just enough to close the bolt handle without force. I seated to where I was 0.001” shorter than the click from primary extraction.

It was cold at the range. I don’t think there is grease in the firing pin area, but maybe by the cocking piece...I’m checking that tonight. Firing pin protrusion looks 0.030” -0.040”, but I haven’t measured.

Other thoughts? I hit these primers 5-10 times before giving up. I hate loosing brass, but I won’t work on a hit primer. I only have 5 fingers as it is!
 
You can pull the bullets and see if there is powder in the case. Another thing that might cause the primer not to ignite, is from oil in the case. Some primers are more sensitive to being killed by oil or water , depending on the brand of primer. Take a Q tip and dry out the bottom of the brass if that is the issue. Make double sure that you are not sticking a bullet in the barrel if one of those rounds doesn't go all the way off. We need all the benchrest shooters that we can get.
 
Kurtis Brown said:
You can pull the bullets and see if there is powder in the case. Another thing that might cause the primer not to ignite, is from oil in the case. Some primers are more sensitive to being killed by oil or water , depending on the brand of primer. Take a Q tip and dry out the bottom of the brass if that is the issue. Make double sure that you are not sticking a bullet in the barrel if one of those rounds doesn't go all the way off. We need all the benchrest shooters that we can get.
Click to expand...


I wanted to do that, but I won’t work on a hit primer that didn’t fire.
 
nksmfamjp said:
So, yesterday, I had 2 in 10 that wouldn’t fire. I sized them just enough to close the bolt handle without force. I seated to where I was 0.001” shorter than the click from primary extraction.

It was cold at the range. I don’t think there is grease in the firing pin area, but maybe by the cocking piece...I’m checking that tonight. Firing pin protrusion looks 0.030” -0.040”, but I haven’t measured.

Other thoughts? I hit these primers 5-10 times before giving up. I hate loosing brass, but I won’t work on a hit primer. I only have 5 fingers as it is!
Click to expand...

Just for giggles, compare the length (base to shoulder) of your fired and unfired cases. You can use a brass "thingy" or a Hornady headspace gauge or what ever you are using to measure length. If they are the same or within a thousand or two, then we'll have to look further. You said that you sized the case just enough to close the bolt. Was this with the firing pin assembly in place or not? Just trying to eliminate possibilities.

Rick
 
Greyfox said:
Just for giggles, compare the length (base to shoulder) of your fired and unfired cases. You can use a brass "thingy" or a Hornady headspace gauge or what ever you are using to measure length. If they are the same or within a thousand or two, then we'll have to look further. You said that you sized the case just enough to close the bolt. Was this with the firing pin assembly in place or not? Just trying to eliminate possibilities.

Rick
Click to expand...

I checked them all, but the 220 Russian shoulder doesn’t seem to provide a great false shoulder.

I’m looking at protrusion and excess lube first.

Then I got maybe a 0.001-0.002” longer to make that a tighter fit.
 
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