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What do you learn by practicing with bad ammo?

I'd take an extra $200 in case the price is really firm and you find that it's in better shape than you think. You may not want to miss it for only $100. Dave

I suggest you contact Steve. (360) 748-0705 104 Garrett Loop Chehalis, WA 98532-9111

Looks to me like some version of, or modified, Time Precision Supertune.

If retired only wanted responses from "actual" gunsmiths he should not have posted on an open forum. That's what private messages etc. are for. For what it's worth, I think some of the most knowledgable people on these forums are NOT "actual gunsmiths" Dave

Temperature also affects barrels. If you don't believe so try holding a match back and forth under a tuning fork. Years ago when I shot IR-50/50 I found I sometimes needed to move the tuner out a click or two as the day heated up. It's about knowing what your rifle/ammo is capable of and...

Have to disagree to some extent. If a shooter beside you distracts you when twisting a tuner a click or two then you are not concentrating on your own shooting enough. It's important to not let whats going on around you distract you from paying attention to your shooting. ALso, in my experience...

I received word tonight that Marshall Beam from Murrells Inlet, SC passed away today. Marshall and I shot lots of IR 50/50 matches together during the late 90's and early 2000's. He was a great friend and will be missed. Dave Burton

I used the parting tool method on a number of factory Remingtom barrels. I don't have a vise or action tool suitable on the factory threads. However I don't think there is any type of thread locker on them as once the shoulder pressure is relieved the barrels easily screw off by hand for me.

I use a static phase converter (PHASE-A-MATIC) on my Emco V13 Maximat 3 phase motor. It's worked well on my lathe for 15-17 years with no peoblem. I don't have a brake - foot or electric - on my lathe but I got plenty of time for it to come to a stop. I think I paid $100 for the PHASE-A-MATIC...

The small Buck pocket knife I usually carry makes a fine 40X bolt removal tool.

There is also cutting the 40X receiver for the mid bolt RF lugs to consider, it's a lot easier to convert a RF 40X receiver to CF as the lug recesses are already cut on all I have looked at. As someone earlier suggested it would be much better and cheaper to sell the 17 and buy a 40x RF. Dave

I was traveling and shooting a lot during the late 1990's and early 2000's and didn't ever hear 275 scoring mentioned back then. Only recently has it been discussed to my knowledge. But I could have just missed it. Dave

A couple of points about the 2000 Nats in Charlotte. There were 160 shooters registered. All were registered for three guns so we had 160 sporter shooters. 40 benches and 4 relays. We had a waiting list and there were 3-4 no-shows and those slots were filled from the waiting list. As I remember...

It's still as good as any other repeater action if you could find someone with a Jewell trigger for one. The game is all about the barrel, ammo and shooter.

Clymer uses the tiny circlips and they are a pain to get off, even harder to get back on. Make sure you have spares! You sure it's not a Clymer reamer? I've used a tiny pick to get them off then the flat of a small flat blade screwdriver to push them back on. Maybe someone else has a better way...

I have one that looks just like it. Hall "M" action, Hall pattern Lee Six stock, mine has a fluted Lilja barrel 6PPC with a .261 neck and smithed by Dave Tooley. Late 1990's vintage and still shoots great. With the fluted barrel it makes 10 1/2 lbs with Leupold 36D scope. I also have a 30PPC...

Sale pending

Old thread I know, but I have a Hood scope checker I don't need anymore (actually never used it) Someone make me a reasonable offer for it. Dave

I remember Hoke Kerns and Allan Hall doing extensive RF ignition/firing pin testing a few years ago. You might contact them for info on their findings. Dave