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I've used the Rigid cutting oil for threading and chambering 416R S.S. barrels with good success. I then tried Vipers Venom thinking this would be an improvement but I then experienced a lot of, what I'll call, chattering. I was using a hand-held reamer holder, of my design, that is held by the...

Hi There- I see M14 mentioned here. Are you referring to the Ruger Mini-14 here? I saw an interesting movie called The American with George Clooney where he is a professional hit-man that did some kitchen table-top gunsmithing on a Mini-14. He taps a barrel with a hand-turned die handle and also...

Hi Chet- Could you please show a picture of the tool that you used to cut the chamfer? Thanks!

I like the idea of the 0.0001" Interapids model because you have the greater sensitivity with this model, with its standard point, than you do with the 0.0005" mode,l and you can still add the 2.75" long point for a sensitivity of ~0.0003". Not sure you can add a shorter point on the 0.0005"...

Nice Gage! I am making a similar one. Does yours slip over the tenon threads or does it screw on?

I just finished doing the crown work. I did a flat crown and beveled the bore with a 1/2" dia. Brass ball (40 cal) had lapping compound. I had to resort back to a copper wire ring as this end of the barrel is round. I got too much squirreliness using the u-shaped pieces. I aligned a .700" long...

I just finished threading and chambering my octagon (half round) barrel with these four u-shaped wire pieces and things worked out real well. No shifting of center after centering to my SB heavy 10" lathe's spindle using an Interapid .0001" DTI with a 2.75" long point. I centered a 1" long...

Yes, I should get some cerrosafe and try this out. I also just made up a 5/16" dia. dowel that I slotted on one end for 1" wide 320 grit sand paper that I will use to roughen up my new chamber. I'll run this in back and forth in the chamber on my lathe's slowest speed.

I made up four straight-sectioned U-shaped pieces of #4 copper wire that are a tight slip fit on each and the chuck jaws. These I think will offer less resistance to jaw adjustments than say, a one-piece ring or square. I should know in about a week how well it works on threading/chambering an...

OK, I understood that it was meant to break the edge at the start of the chamber. There is a pretty sharp edge there. Ive also Have frtheeebore too in my chamber so it would probably be good to stay away from this area too with the sandpaper. I'm using fairly soft lead bullets and these swell up...

When using Scotch Brite or sand paper is this run with the lathe turning on a slow speed? How might either be attached to a stick, say? I guess you want to be sure you dont run either up far enough to contact the tops of the lands?

I had good luck recently chambering for the first time. After reading up on a lot of techniques here and elsewhere I made up a hand-held floating reamer holder (some say reamer pusher) and, using a long-pointed .0001" DTI indicated the bullet area in the barrel to run true with the head-stock...

The square shape sounds like it might work. My concerns is that heavy forming of the wire to the profile of the octagon shape might flatten the wire too much and then limit the barrel from pivoting easily. I'll see what will be practical to do when I start working with the #4 wire. Thanks for...

I will soon be threading and chambering an octagon barrel and am wondering what is best to use between the barrel's octagon sides and the jaws of a 4-jaw chuck (so the barrel can pivot easily when adjusting the spider)? I have used the heavy copper-wire ring on a round barrel but I think a round...

Not to say who is right or wrong but the point I was trying to make, and I hope that the drawing here clears this up, is that if the reamer should move off-axis to its original one, during reaming, the reamer "pusher" then moves forward due to the end of the reamer having traveled in an arc, and...

Taper pre-boring would certainly help ensure that there is equal material to remove from all sides of the reamer (equal forces), help to naturally align the reamer, and also remove material to help reduce the effort and the chances (and time) of anything occurring that would produce off-axis...

If the "pusher" is flat and square to the axis of the reamer, and no side forces are applied during reaming by a handle, etc., the reamer should follow the bushing's alignment with the bore. However, this is not a perfect fit with the bore and I believe then it would be the equal and concentric...

The result of the side-force, which develops from holding the handle that is attached to the end of the reamer, to keep it from spinning, would be similar to a reamer which is held by a tail stock that is slightly out of alignment with the spindle - an enlarged chamber. If the handle is always...

If there is an effect due to a side-force due to the reamer handle it would show up as a slight increase in the chamber diameter, not as an eccentricity. Measuring with a dial indicator would not detect this. Certainly taking small cuts and not driving the reamer hard into the work would help to...

I have wondered if it is best to keep the handle, that keeps the reamer from spinning while chambering, as short as possible. The reason being is if you have ever used a torque wrench to torque wheel lug nuts, and used a long extension between the head of the wrench and the socket, you will have...