XR 100 Extractor

R

realm-aw

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Has anyone put a Sako extractor on a Rem XR 100? The extractor on my 204 seems to be gauling the case rim and causing hard bolt closing.
 
I recently saw a Rem. 700 extractor, same as the XR-100, that had been over compressed when installed. This resulted in not falling out of the bolt but making chambering a round rather hard on the case rim. I removed the extractor and sprung it open some to it fit the retaining rim in the bolt face better and have not had a problem since.

I had GRE'TAN Rifles install a Sako extractor and open the bolt face on an XR-100 to PPC diameter. I am extremely pleased with the work that was done.
 
thanks

Thanks for the advice. Where is GRE'TAN Rifles? I'm in western Nebraska and am hoping they are within driving distance.
 
Try fixing your extractor first.

Has anyone put a Sako extractor on a Rem XR 100? The extractor on my 204 seems to be gauling the case rim and causing hard bolt closing.

Take a minute and think this thing through. The Remington system is very good and very safe. A new extractor is dirt cheep compared to having the machine work done to install a Sako extractor. Read this thread before you take the leap, it shows some stuff that the Remington system survived that would have been a completely different story had a Sako extractor been installed.

http://benchrest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=50518&highlight=Blow+Puzzler
 
I would fix an original 700 style extractor 50 times if need be before I would convert to a Sako style... why alter the strongest, safest design ever made when you don't need to?
 
More than likely all it needs is a a good polishing on the edge that slices over the rim. I've done this to several extractors. Seems like they were all small calibers. Remember that's what the extractor does on a Remington, it slices as it goes over the rim. It will always leave a mark of some kind. I use cratex wheel on a Dremel tool and make the extractor shine.

Dave
 
Another tip on the Rem 700 type extractor is that the ends of the extractor fit into two small radiused cuts in the bolt nose. As the cartridge rim forces the extractor to the outside, the ends have to slide in these cuts and then slide back to allow the extractor to grip the rim. Before installing a Rem extractor, I polish the surface that slides over the rim, but I also polish the ends of the extractor that have to slide back and forth in the radius cut. Quite often the edges on the ends of the extractor are quite sharp and look like they could dig into the bolt nose rather than sliding smoothly.

Also, make sure that your rough extractor has not shaved brass that has worked its way behind the extractor blocking its movement.
 
Say What?

Thanks to all, plan B is to polish the extractor.

By definition plan “B” is executed after plan “A” has failed to perform as projected. If you cut the bolt for a Sako extractor, your plan “A” there is no plan “B” polish the extractor. Plan “A” needs to be replace and or polish the Remington extractor and the Sako extractor should be plan “of last resort”.

You can never un-ring the bell,
Nic.
 
Plan A/B

By definition plan “B” is executed after plan “A” has failed to perform as projected. If you cut the bolt for a Sako extractor, your plan “A” there is no plan “B” polish the extractor. Plan “A” needs to be replace and or polish the Remington extractor and the Sako extractor should be plan “of last resort”.

You can never un-ring the bell,
Nic.

For years we busted extractors and replaced them with Sako type. ONCE BUSTED TWO IN ONE WEEK ON TWO BRAND NEW 700'S. I now see the error of our ways. I guess that in a hunting gun on a trip out west I would still opt for the reliabiality but what I have read lately from knowledegable people would make that a last resort. Can a body polish the extractor w/out removing it? Does removing it render it useless? My XR100 will not deal with the thick rim of Lapua Match .223 which is a bite since (Lapua Brass) is so good. Bought Hornady Match brass but had to change a bunch. Did not have the button for it and the load changed too.I found the extractor on the Brownells site, but the description does not include XR100's. BTW THIS IS MY LAST !@#$%$$# REM ACTION, AND I HAVE A BUNCH!!!!!!!!
Thanks
LASER
 
Bummer dude! I like Remington actions, they will never be a like a custom action but they do work very well and are strong enough to handle the occasional knuckle head and his reloading debacle without cleansing the gene pool. Remington changed form a riveted style extractor a few years ago. The old style riveted extractors are available through Brownell’s, in .223, .308 and Magnum families of bolt faces and include the rivet. You can get the riveting tool from them too and it includes some extra rivets. The rivet-less style extractors is available from Brownell’s and are a genuine current Remington product, these snap in. Purchase whichever style you have, most likely rivet-less. The extractor is made from hardened tough steel and needs to be polished with some sort of a rotary tool and a Cratex Abrasive bit. I use a Foredom tool with a foot speed control. You want to just polish up the sharp edges on the hook or business part of the extractor, not remove a lot of metal. You must do this with the extractor out of the bolt because you cannot really get to the backside where most of the work is to be done with it installed. I supposed if you talked real nice to your Dentist you might find a small fine bur that could fit in there but you couldn’t really see what you were doing. I do this under an illuminated magnifying glass and go slowly and take it easy, I suggest that you do the same.

Nic.
 
Nic.,

Thanks for your reply! I read the thread you referenced and am now afraid to shoot the seven or eight Rem's I now have. Funny, we thought we were being smart when we had my buddy do the Sako thing. Those problematic extractors were prevalent enough to support a cottage industry, what with fixtures etc. As I said before I have seen busted or busted myself enough of them. I wonder if there is a way to improve on the Rem style. Never paid enough attention to the design etc. just took em in and had the Sako installed. I did see, however that the distance from the back of the extractor to the bolt head was pretty small, thus my hope for some magical technique for polishing in place. Since my friend passed,(see "funerals suck" post last dec. on centerfire benchrest) I don't have the quick access to all the work one wants done.Following your advice, I will forge ahead and try this extractor thing myself. Thanks again.
LASER
 
For years we busted extractors and replaced them with Sako type. ONCE BUSTED TWO IN ONE WEEK ON TWO BRAND NEW 700'S. I now see the error of our ways. I guess that in a hunting gun on a trip out west I would still opt for the reliabiality but what I have read lately from knowledegable people would make that a last resort. Can a body polish the extractor w/out removing it? Does removing it render it useless? My XR100 will not deal with the thick rim of Lapua Match .223 which is a bite since (Lapua Brass) is so good. Bought Hornady Match brass but had to change a bunch. Did not have the button for it and the load changed too.I found the extractor on the Brownells site, but the description does not include XR100's. BTW THIS IS MY LAST !@#$%$$# REM ACTION, AND I HAVE A BUNCH!!!!!!!!
Thanks
LASER

Wow, you guys must be rough on your actions? 2 in a week?

I'll say that I've never had any problems with a remington extractor in 25 years with 30 or so of them I've owned.

I guess I'm just lucky?

What do you think Dennis, you handle lots of these?
 
A question for all of you that blueprint actions...
Could tolerence stack in a factory action be part of the problem? To be more clear, if the action threads are off center, and the chamber less than perfectly centered in the tenon, couldn't this cause the head of the case to be off center in relation to the bolt face, and contribute to the problem? Jerry Stiller uses Remington extractors on his Drop Port actions, and I have never heard of a problem with them in those actions. I got a chance to shoot one the other day, and it functioned flawlessly. I may have to have one some day. It was slick.
 
A question for all of you that blueprint actions...
Could tolerence stack in a factory action be part of the problem? To be more clear, if the action threads are off center, and the chamber less than perfectly centered in the tenon, couldn't this cause the head of the case to be off center in relation to the bolt face, and contribute to the problem? Jerry Stiller uses Remington extractors on his Drop Port actions, and I have never heard of a problem with them in those actions. I got a chance to shoot one the other day, and it functioned flawlessly. I may have to have one some day. It was slick.

For sure to be sure, and look at primer dents, if you can see it with the eye, it's off quite a bit.

The state police get so much from a case in this respect, as each action leaves a signature extraction scar and primer dent. It holds up in court, why not here.

If this wasn't the case, then why would there be a need to blueprint anyway? You don't hear about people blueprinting BAT and Borden actions? As a machinist, hobby gunsmith, I was aghast with the first rem action I saw the barrel removed from, where the action was parted with a chop saw, since I could see the saw marks, but it cleaned up with a couple thou cut on the mandrel. Still, that's quite a bit in this extreme accuracy game.

Ben
 
I'd Like To Think

Wow, you guys must be rough on your actions? 2 in a week?

I'll say that I've never had any problems with a remington extractor in 25 years with 30 or so of them I've owned.

I guess I'm just lucky?

What do you think Dennis, you handle lots of these?

that I'm not an abuser of guns.Love em' respect em and keep them clean. Also shoot the hell out of them in all sorts of venues.
In my earlier post I mentioned the existence of all the fixtures, jigs and all the people who DO replace them. I have to wonder why. Perhaps some of you guys who have been around a while can enlighten me.
I did indeed go to the range with a brand spankin new .223 varmiter . Second shot.. busted extractor. Two days later, another broken extractor after several shots.This one a brand spankin' new .221 fireball. I know of several others that broke recently. I have also seen the problem that I think Mr.Sorensen mentioned of the cases hitting the bottom of scopes as the Sako is placed in a different location to clear the lug. I am cured. Will not replace any more and will use Stiller clones when I need another repeater. Jerry and Curtis have all my admiration and respect. Spent some time on the phone with both of them. Got a Viper that is the cat's 'jammies.As for my original question..Can there be a way to keep this thing from happening? I too know of guys without any problems. I have to wonder how much they shoot .. using them as repeaters seems to be where I run into most of the problems.
I'm gonna try fixing this one myself. If I have a problem one of you guys will get a crack. I am not repeat not a gunsmith.
I am a mechanic in several trades putting my name on everything I do. Like I said, why did they start replacing them in the first place?
LASER
 
Wow, you guys must be rough on your actions? 2 in a week?

I'll say that I've never had any problems with a remington extractor in 25 years with 30 or so of them I've owned.

I guess I'm just lucky?

What do you think Dennis, you handle lots of these?

I have had to replace very few broken 700 extractors... and that is over 40 years...

I have had to adjust a few that were not "sprung out" enough to grab well... I simply drill a very small hole so I can push the extractor out and flex it enough that it actually bends out a bit more.

I have never had a failure personally.
 
Dennis,
Can you give some extra info on this drilling and bending as this is the problem I have.
Thanks David
 
Dennis,
Can you give some extra info on this drilling and bending as this is the problem I have.
Thanks David

I drill a very small hole (about a #55 drill) perpendicular to the bolt where I want to apply pressure to bend the extractor out... I do this in the drill press and then use a #55 broken drill turned around in the chuck and used just to push on the extractor.. just enough so I can get a small hook in from the front edge and bend it more... it is a little tricky to do and sometime you break the extractor or bend it too much and you then have to correct that.

I should have taken a picture of the last one I did...:(
 
Dennis,
Do I drill the hole in the middle or where the extractor hook is?
I'll try it but first I'll gone seek for a spare extractor.
Thanks,
David
 
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