firearmsunlimit
AZ10X
Speedy indicated that he has seen resulting problems with a Jewel triggers when lighter fluid was used as the cleaning solution. At first blush I was thinking about simply using Naptha. What do you prefere?
What is your preferred trigger cleaning solution
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Pete Wass
Well-known member
I read someplace to never use anything to lube a trigger, particularly lighter fluid. I have run my Jewels dry for a few years now without incident. Tigger's are a very simple mechanism and with hardened parts in them, they really don't need lube. The pivots don't get used a whole lot in the scheme of things. I last used Alcohol on the one I had apart.
mwezell
Mike Ezell
Blocking out(sanding)those rough plates always seems to smooth them up noticeably. I work on those and then just lightly sand and polish everything up on all the parts. Careful of not messing up critical areas. Very noticeable but not a huge difference when done. It's worth the time or I wouldn't mess with it. Won't shoot any better but feels very nice and smooth...and it's free, other than a little time. Have you got any pics of before and after? I do not, that I know of, or I'd post them.The lighter fluid recommendation came directly from Arnold Jewell.
In his own words: "Don't use any of that charcoal starter fluid $h!t.Too much oil in that crap."
I've got this one apart now for some tweaks.
As to the op's question...I typically clean them up thoroughly with brake clean, acetone or paint thinner, whatever is handy at the time and depending on if it's really dirty and needs a good soak. Follow up with lighter fluid. I keep a bottle in my range box of cig lighter fluid but have often used charcoal fluid. Never heard what you posted about it having too much oil in it. Can only say that I've never had a problem with it. Knock on wood, I've never had a Jewell to fail at all but I know it happens, especially as a result of pierced primers. I've fixed a few of those for other people but I've been lucky in that regard.
One last thing...I always leave a pretty fair amount of overtravel when I adjust them. I see absolutely nothing good that can come from the trigger hitting a hard stop right after the break.
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antelopedundee
internet bum
Why should there be any great difference? Both are hydrocarbon in nature; Ronsonol is largely hexane which is also a component of light naphtha whereas heavy naphtha is more like octane and similar compounds. Sometimes they might be referred to as petroleum ether. Ronsonol evaporates faster which may cause moisture to collect. Maybe blow it out with a hair dryer.
My question would be; if you're using a bore guide which keeps or should keep solvents and other junk from getting into trigger where does all of the gunk come from that builds up inside of the trigger?
mwezell
Mike Ezell
My guess, guns stored vertically with solvents left in the bore/chamber. And I'm sure a drop can find its way in there when pulling the bore guide out also. I'm seeing some people really douse them with bore cleaner.
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Pete Wass
Well-known member
Bolt lube, if one uses it and lug lube, hot weather, gravity. For those reasons I think zero anything is preferable, although I doubt there is much actual lube in Lighter fluid but I don't know with any certainty. I've had no issues with zero for a few years.
antelopedundee
internet bum
I use Bore Tech red grease on my bolt lugs. I take a patch in a short rod [usually the end third of a cheap 3 piece] with the needle eye jag and dampen it with Ronsonol [charcoal starter should work too] and rotate it around in the lug recess area. Do as many times as necessary. Red grease is readily soluble in non-polar hydrocarbons.
Pete Wass
Well-known member
I switched to STP for lug lube years ago. I find it stays put very well and usually is still present at the end of the day.
Years ago, I bought a kit that was sold as a permanent lube for metal surfaces. Their claim was a Covalent Bond that created a slick surface. Said Nascar Engine builders used it. I thought it would be just the thing for bolt lugs and other bolt surfaces. I have used it in the past but tend to forget thigs like this. When I get home, I will try to remember to do a treatment on the bolt lug surfaces, inside and out this time on one of the rifles to see - - - -
Pete, I tried some dry moly aerosol on the inner side plates with mixed results. The NECO impact system for bullets may work well on the side plates. But once the side plates and internals are polished and deburred a bit, it's likely a solution in search of a problem.
Just my 2 cents worth. -Al
Just my 2 cents worth. -Al
Pete Wass
Well-known member
I went looking for permanent dry lubricant for metal yesterday and don't think I have found what I was looking for but I haven't seen the NECO system. The idea of the covalent bond is a great one, if it only does as advertised. With my Jewells, I got the side platers as flat as I could get them and then stoned them as flat as I could. The less friction the better and you are likely right on the solution.
I am primarily interested in something for bolts to eliminate using oils and greases.
Just my way of thinking.
I'm using Anzshutz Keramik coat on my bolts. Supposed to bond with the metal. You apply it, let it dry and buff the part it was applied to. Does it work????? Well they say it does.
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Pete Wass
Well-known member
firearmsunlimit
AZ10X
Do you think heavy Naptha would be a good alternative?