Using Heat to remove a barrel
- Thread starter HovisKM
- Start date
Centerfire
Member
Practical Machinest
I put in removing remington 700 barrel in google and there are several choices.
I looked at the 1st Practical Machinest.
Some of the solutions do not require heat, like removing the recoil lug.
Centerfire
I put in removing remington 700 barrel in google and there are several choices.
I looked at the 1st Practical Machinest.
Some of the solutions do not require heat, like removing the recoil lug.
Centerfire
JerrySharrett
Senile Member
Kev, Carmichel and I had a Rem 700 recently that we heated till the black stuff bubbled out of the scope screw holes in front, and had a 900 ft/lb air wrench on it. The barrel is still stuck.
(I had put some 900F Temp Stick on the action ring and the black stuff bubbled before the Temp Stick changed colors. When the black stuff bubbles, that is hot eough most times.)
One option I have used on 700's is to cut a groove in the barrel with a cutoff tool just a few thousands off the action face. That destroys the barrel though.
Heating a barrel shoul never exceed 350 degrees..
It is much better to cut a small relief cut in front of the recoil lug releasing any tension on the tenon.
A second option is to completely bore out the old barrel tenon. When it gets close to the threads it will release and easily come out.
Heat and big wrenches ruin more actions than we care to admitt.
Nat Lambeth
It is much better to cut a small relief cut in front of the recoil lug releasing any tension on the tenon.
A second option is to completely bore out the old barrel tenon. When it gets close to the threads it will release and easily come out.
Heat and big wrenches ruin more actions than we care to admitt.
Nat Lambeth
Dave Tooley
Active member
Also there's the surgeons fee for the hernia operation after one of those clean and jerk lifts. Again a Remington. I now use a 20 ton press and barrel blocks made to capture the recoil lug and a big T-handle. Sometimes it takes two people on the T-handle.
Dave
Dave
bill larson
Member
Rem.threads
Dave....... do you always remachine action after taking barrel off.........????..I`m always afraid of twisting action....
Dave....... do you always remachine action after taking barrel off.........????..I`m always afraid of twisting action....
I have only done 2 but did it the hard way. I cut off the excess recoil lug with a hack saw then turn the remaining lug round and cut a small groove in the middle of the lug. With the groove cut through to the threads you can turn the barrel off by hand. No harm to either barrel or receiver. Wayne
Dave Tooley
Active member
Bill
Any barrel tight enough to require this much force is almost always the factory barrel and machine work would follow.
I use a wrench that only engages the lugs in the receiver. So do I put some pressure on the rear of the action? Yes but no twisting forces like using a flat full length wrench that engages the lug ways the entire length. I do remember a Winchester one time I sort of had to untwist when I put the barrel back on. Learned my lesson there. That rifle still shot great.
Dave
Here is a little more info.
This is a Rem 40x. It has a custom 30BR barrel on it, no lug, not glued in.
I remove the barrelled action from the stock and heated until normal 5-30w oil was smoking well. I had a T-handle rear entry wrench on it and could not get it to budge. I tap it a few hard licks with a hamber to try and shock it all but to no prevail.
I was removing the barrel to have it shortened. It shoots extremely well and don't really want to mess with the chamber. I may just have it shortened on the action and then worry about getting it off later when the barrel goes south.
Thanks for all the advice.
Hovis
This is a Rem 40x. It has a custom 30BR barrel on it, no lug, not glued in.
I remove the barrelled action from the stock and heated until normal 5-30w oil was smoking well. I had a T-handle rear entry wrench on it and could not get it to budge. I tap it a few hard licks with a hamber to try and shock it all but to no prevail.
I was removing the barrel to have it shortened. It shoots extremely well and don't really want to mess with the chamber. I may just have it shortened on the action and then worry about getting it off later when the barrel goes south.
Thanks for all the advice.
Hovis
JerrySharrett
Senile Member
Kev, just take the trigger off and stick the whole assembly in the lathe through the headstock and shorten away!
Or, using copper or aluminum shims to protect the action, chuck on the front receiver ring and run the barrel in a steadyrest.
Hovis: I've seen one other case like yours.....700 with no recoil lug between bbl and receiver and a bolt in. The barrel wouldn't come off that one no matter what!
The 'smith used a parting tool and cut a relief on the shank just ahead of the reciever (stopped about .010 short of the reciever face). The barrel turned off by hand, as he'd correctly assumed that the barrel face was galled to the reciever face......not a thread problem at all.
He then finished the 'relief' cut correctly for a recoil lug, modified the stock, pinned the lug to the reciever and rebedded it. Never had to touch the chamber and the f.l. die needed less than .002 adjustment to get back to where it was set before.
A bolt in 700/40X with no lug is just bad ju-ju waiting to happen, anyway.
For what it's worth..... -Al
The 'smith used a parting tool and cut a relief on the shank just ahead of the reciever (stopped about .010 short of the reciever face). The barrel turned off by hand, as he'd correctly assumed that the barrel face was galled to the reciever face......not a thread problem at all.
He then finished the 'relief' cut correctly for a recoil lug, modified the stock, pinned the lug to the reciever and rebedded it. Never had to touch the chamber and the f.l. die needed less than .002 adjustment to get back to where it was set before.
A bolt in 700/40X with no lug is just bad ju-ju waiting to happen, anyway.
For what it's worth..... -Al
B
B.Johnson
Guest
If your wrench goes around the receiver ring,you may have the wrench to tight.
