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Ed S
Guest
Trimmer Case Length Control
I own and use four case trimmers, all different brands. They all work fine for hunting loads, but I only trust the Wilson when it comes to my benchrest and "high accuracy" cases. I believe it does the best job of keeping the mouth of the case exactly perpendicular to the long axis; and controls the cut length of the case much better than the others. My reason for saying this is the ones that use a stepped collet to clamp onto the case head don't always get the head seated down into the collet to the same depth. Just my $0.02... Ed
I own and use four case trimmers, all different brands. They all work fine for hunting loads, but I only trust the Wilson when it comes to my benchrest and "high accuracy" cases. I believe it does the best job of keeping the mouth of the case exactly perpendicular to the long axis; and controls the cut length of the case much better than the others. My reason for saying this is the ones that use a stepped collet to clamp onto the case head don't always get the head seated down into the collet to the same depth. Just my $0.02... Ed
Question
I use a Wilson.
After trimming, deburring, steelwool and bore brush; the inside of my necks have a very fine crosshatch similar to that of what you have when rebuilding an engine.
Is this acceptable?
I also fine deburring can leave a bur, so my last twist with the deburring tool is in reverse.
I use a Wilson.
After trimming, deburring, steelwool and bore brush; the inside of my necks have a very fine crosshatch similar to that of what you have when rebuilding an engine.
Is this acceptable?
I also fine deburring can leave a bur, so my last twist with the deburring tool is in reverse.
JerrySharrett
Senile Member
After trimming the ID and OD with the 45 degree cutter, it is a good idea to use a 7 degree tool to break the burr left by the 45 on the ID.
Benchrest jackets are fragile and with a dull 45 tool, you could push a slight burr into the case neck. Not a great danger, just a precaution. I use a 7 degree rotary file but this is probably better. http://precisionreloading.com/KMProducts.htm
Pete Wass
Well-known member
After the second or third time - -
you fire loads in the cases any scratches will probably be filled with carbon. As Jerry said, this ain't rocket science. There are REASONABLE length to go to with these operations and then there is OVERKILL. Brass flows quite readily so precision in this area isn't Labratory standards. Considering the violent explosions that occur every time one lights off a load, well, you know where I'm going here.
you fire loads in the cases any scratches will probably be filled with carbon. As Jerry said, this ain't rocket science. There are REASONABLE length to go to with these operations and then there is OVERKILL. Brass flows quite readily so precision in this area isn't Labratory standards. Considering the violent explosions that occur every time one lights off a load, well, you know where I'm going here.
H
henrya
Guest
Rubbing/turning the freshly trimmed and deburred case neck into a wad of 0000 steel wool will polish off any burr left and leaves a slick entry for the bullet.
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BryanWang
Guest
I've used forster, wilson and lee, now I only use lee, it gives me almost 0 runout.
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Migs
Guest
Will a nylon brush remove the carbon or does it take a little more grit, like the steel wool will have?
Do you all treat the outer rim to some affection, or only the inner rim?-Migs
Do you all treat the outer rim to some affection, or only the inner rim?-Migs
Pete Wass
Well-known member
I have never
tried to clean the carbon from the inside of the necke of my cases. I anneal them after every 5 or so firings and the annealing process burns the carbon off.
Cases do not have to be surgically made to work well rather they need to be made more like, say machine parts or auto parts, IMHO.
tried to clean the carbon from the inside of the necke of my cases. I anneal them after every 5 or so firings and the annealing process burns the carbon off.
Cases do not have to be surgically made to work well rather they need to be made more like, say machine parts or auto parts, IMHO.
A
abintx
Guest
Miggs ...
I use the same procedure Henry uses. Stuffing the end of the case neck into a wad of 0000 steel wool and then turning with a drill leaves the inside and outside deburred edges smooth and polished. A real simple task. Art
I use the same procedure Henry uses. Stuffing the end of the case neck into a wad of 0000 steel wool and then turning with a drill leaves the inside and outside deburred edges smooth and polished. A real simple task. Art
How do you do it alinwa . . . A to Z please
Al:
Since I consider you the "man" on fire forming, and because I KNOW that a case CANNOT be square until it is fire formed (at best), what is your procedure on chamfering pre fire form and/or post fire form?
On my long range prone loads, I always give my case mouth the same respect as I give the crown on my barrels. What say you?
Thanks in advance,
Jim Hardy
Al:
Since I consider you the "man" on fire forming, and because I KNOW that a case CANNOT be square until it is fire formed (at best), what is your procedure on chamfering pre fire form and/or post fire form?
On my long range prone loads, I always give my case mouth the same respect as I give the crown on my barrels. What say you?
Thanks in advance,
Jim Hardy