To glue or not to glue, Calfee

Ok, please forgive my ignorance. If you glue an action in, how do you get it apart to do trigger adjustments etc.? If it is a permenant attachment, couldn't you just bed normally, but allow for a lock in the receiver so it couldn't come out of the stock. Please help me understand!
Thanks
Jess
 
Peter Armstrong said:
Bill,

I might be able to answer your question.
My Hall was bolted in and it won the RBA nationals in 06, I glued and bolted it in for 07 and won again. Surprisingly it shot on the same tuner setting after it was glued-in. I feel it’s more consistent target to target glued-in and with this rifle it’s the way to go.

Andy,
If you think there is enough of problem for your bedding, what will it do to ammo???

I have heard of alloy stocks cracking on flights but the air pressure in the hold is the same as the cabin and we are all in more danger from baggage handlers than air pressure.

Peter
Click to expand...

Hi Peter,
I'm not sure if the cabin pressure in the same in the hold. when my wheelchiar whent in the hold last year the fabric looked like it had shrunk, so not 100% sure about that. I have a Dosco case which has a sealed valve on it but not taking any risk with that.

If anyone can answer the question about loose the bolts or not on the rifle before flying would be very helpfull, maybe we have a flight captain on here!!

Andy
 
I have flown all over the world. From a plus 150 deg to a minus -90 deg from below Sea level to 51,000 feet.
To make a long story short If the altitude and temp changes do not kill you then they will also have no effect on any of your equipment or ammo.
A word of caution thou! Anything liquid could cause an inconvience!:eek:
 
Mesage from Doug

Doug said:
I have flown all over the world. From a plus 150 deg to a minus -90 deg from below Sea level to 51,000 feet.
To make a long story short If the altitude and temp changes do not kill you then they will also have no effect on any of your equipment or ammo.
A word of caution thou! Anything liquid could cause an inconvience!:eek:
Click to expand...


Thanks Doug

Andy
 
Mooseyard said:
Ok, please forgive my ignorance. If you glue an action in, how do you get it apart to do trigger adjustments etc.? If it is a permenant attachment, couldn't you just bed normally, but allow for a lock in the receiver so it couldn't come out of the stock. Please help me understand!
Thanks
Jess
Click to expand...

Jess,
Pretty easy, a modern br gun mounts the trigger in a "hanger" that unscrews from the bottom... 5 minute job. If you need to you can pop the action out by heating with an iron for a few minutes...clean up and re-glue.
 
Glue vs. pillars vs. poured pillars

Done properly there's no effective difference. "Properly" is the key word. Glue covers up a lot of "improperly".
 
That’s one way to kill a thread!

Wilbur said:
Done properly there's no effective difference. "Properly" is the key word. Glue covers up a lot of "improperly".
Click to expand...
Ok, I'll risk my user account and bite because I'm interested in hearing more discussion on this subject. ;)

Your statement makes it sound like only the incompetent and incapable find improvement by gluing any action into any stock.

Have you found your statement to hold true for all the stock and action types you‘ve bedded, even flexible single screw repeating sporter types without a recoil lug, and flimsy flexible stocks?
Maybe "properly" includes a forearm pressure pad?

Jim
 
tim said:
Jess,
Pretty easy, a modern br gun mounts the trigger in a "hanger" that unscrews from the bottom... 5 minute job. If you need to you can pop the action out by heating with an iron for a few minutes...clean up and re-glue.
Click to expand...

Something to keep in mind here, and I'm very new at this but constantly striving to learn more, I'm not aware of a hanger system for the 40X so if you had to pull the trigger out, or adjust one that can't be done when in the stock, you don't want to clue it in the action IMO. With a good bedding job and properly torqued action screws you should be good to go.

Les
 
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I guess the CF guys are better at gluing than the RF crew. I had a CF XP-100 glued in. It simply had holes drilled in the stock where the trigger pins were and you could take the trigger out easily. I guess there were no other easy adjustments to make because there were no other provisions. So anything else, I guess you pop the stock. What type of glue is typically used?
 
My friends

My friends:

Man, it's been a long day.....big matches at Washington Co. and Livonia this week-end.....been getting ready...

My friends, first, thanks for you comments........

I ain't no bedder.......I struggle with it.....I do all my SPEC rifles, but it's a struggle for me.....but, I'm going to do them......

To glue or not to glue? It looks like to me that gluing would eliminate every possible bedding problem............I glued in my centerfires, 30 years ago cause I felt it was the only way to go......

But my friends, I'm going to say something now that will probably raise some eyebrows, in both the rimfire, and, centerfire communitys:

I think I can produce better accuracy by bolting the gun together......

Until I find different, no Calfee SPEC rifle will be glued in....

If you ask why? I believe I can take a 23 inch barrel, and turn it into a 30 inch barrel, by bolting the gun together......and that has so many advantages when using one of my muzzle devices.....if I glue it together, I've got a 23 inch barrel...

My friends, I ain't no bedder......but I know what I know......I know what I've done in the last few months, with bedding, and seen the results....

One day it may prove out that I'm wrong about this....(probably will)...but until I find I'm wrong, no glue-ins..........and my friends, something tells me this will apply equally to centerfire, although I have no way to prove it, yet....

My friends, as long as God Almighty allows me to live, and as long as folks trust me to build their equipment, I intend to...............

Your friend, Bill Calfee
 
Bill,

You seem to be saying that this will give you a longer piece of steel with which to play with the vibration control. This is where I lose tuner theory. It always seems that people want to create additonal vibration in order to dampen same. Wouldn't it be better to have less vibration to begin with or do you feel it would take a much greater mass in the barrel device (weight) in order to kill the vibration? Also, if you glued in an action, which is generally steel, wouldn't you still have vibration to play with or would this mess with the resonance or some such other law of barrel/action/tuner physics?
 
Stock

I have a Cicognani (Italian Make) Stock which is glass bedded and i have to say it shoots really well. When doing testing i changed the torque a couple of times to see if that made any difference and then fitted my barrel tuner. If it was glued then i would never of been able to do the testing i wanted to do and it seems that once glued then your stuck if you need to make any changes. If you have to re-glue now and then it cant do the rifle much good or the stock, just seems you dont have much to play with when testing.

Andy
DSCN0727.jpg
Anschutz's 1913/Nikko Stirling 10X50X50 scope
DSCN0728.jpg
 
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andyd1179 said:
I have a Cicognani (Italian Make) Stock which is glass bedded and i have to say it shoots really well. When doing testing i changed the torque a couple of times to see if that made any difference and then fitted my barrel tuner. If it was glued then i would never of been able to do the testing i wanted to do and it seems that once glued then your stuck if you need to make any changes. If you have to re-glue now and then it cant do the rifle much good or the stock, just seems you dont have much to play with when testing.

Andy

Good screwed in bedding won't move and torque settings should not really affect it. Of course, you can get to the point that you're stretching the screws, but good bedders put a micrometer on the action/barrel to check for movement. When there is none at various torques, the bedding is correct. Glue-ins, at least in theory obtain that when the glue dries. So, it should be at the optimum s "tuning" setting when dry.
Click to expand...
 
He is dealing with a 2000 series anchutz...they flex. It kinda defeats the purpose of bedding and the reason that they are not the first choice for this game.
 
That doesn't look like a 2000 series if you're referring to the picture. But, a 2000 series is difficult to bed. Has anyone ever done any good with one in BR or do they require the aluminum stock that usually is part of the package.
 
Hoke Kerns

He's your man to contact about the 2000 series. He set the record for the first 4900 in BR50. The pictured action, is a 54.
 
If you look at the writing between the pictures it says it is a 1913.

Charlie
 
Model 1913

Anschutz Smallbore Target Rifle Mod. 1913. The "Super-Match", a top model of Anschutz smallbore target rifles for Olympic and International competitions. Heavy, cylindrical barrel, barrel length 27.25 in.; with world famous Anschutz Match 54 action, adjustable match trigger, thumbhole stock with new adjustable cheek piece, fully adjustable hook butt plate, standing block, rail and handstop. Total length approx. 43.75 - 46 in., Weight: approx.13 lbs.
 
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