T36 minimum focus/maximum elevation

A

Ackley Improved

New member
Guy

I need to put a scope on a rimfire BR rifle.

I would like to go for a Weaver T36.

It will be shot at 25yds minimum. The T36 will have no problem focusing here. I know what the websie says, but I am after real world experience.

Next, one of the comp's I shoot is at 200m. Has anyone out there with a T36 on a rimfire shot this distance, and did the T36 get there with enough elevation.

Cheers
AI
 
Ackley Improved said:
Guy

I need to put a scope on a rimfire BR rifle.

I would like to go for a Weaver T36.

It will be shot at 25yds minimum. The T36 will have no problem focusing here. I know what the websie says, but I am after real world experience.

Next, one of the comp's I shoot is at 200m. Has anyone out there with a T36 on a rimfire shot this distance, and did the T36 get there with enough elevation.

Cheers
AI
Click to expand...

I shoot at the local Bass Pro when things don't cooperate with me weatherwise outside. The T-36 will focus and track exceptionally well at 25 yards. No problems there.

I have shot it out to 200 yards as well, I have not had any elevation problems at all.

Hoep that helps.
 
I don't know if it was just me or not but I do have shims in the rear ring. But I can adjust from 50 feet to 200 meters with elevation to spare.
 
Our club is going to run some rimfire BENCHREST metallic silhouette matches this year. Chickens at 60 yards. Pigs at 100, Turkeys at 125 and Rams at 200.

I have been thinking a lot of our members may have trouble getting that 200 yard sight setting. Was considering ordering a few sets of Burris Signature rings, or maybe do like MKnarr, did and shim some back rings: About .010", then lap both saddles. I say "both" because that front ring has to come down on the front edge if you don;t want to bend the scope tube.

That could be a big job with a bunch of club members straining to get out to 200 yards and wanting a shim job done.

So: Hags to the rescue! He said: ". . . out to 200 yards . . . I have not had any elevation problems at all."

I just pulled Dave Smith's old Grade 10 Suhl out of the safe: It's mine now! Last it was shot was last October when it was sighted in at 50 yards. It won the match.

So: I started cranking up the elevation on the T-36 and got 228 1/8 minute clicks. That's 28.5 MOA. Right?

Went to the JBM ballistic calculator on the net and got a drop table for Lapua Master 1040 fps. Looks like I need 25.3 MOA to go from 50 yards to 200 yard. Thanks Hags!

Maybe I won't have to shim those back scope saddle after all. But: There are about 25 local club members here that are gon'a want to shoot those Rams at 200 yards, and a lot of them do not have Weaver T-36s.

Would some of you guys who have "other" scopes, help me by checking how much UP elevation you have from your 50 yard setting?

Joe Haller (Mr. Frosty)

2009MetallicSilhouette.jpg
 
From my experience (which is very limited), I was having trouble with the exact same thing, not a T-36, but I don't think it matters. The very best optical image is with the scope set at mechanical zero and it starts to diminish with each click. Think of a scope like a roll of paper towels, as you pull on the outer sheet, the oposite side tightens up, same thing happens in a scope. If you run the verticle almost out to the max, there's nothing left in the windage. Joe, your problem is a tough one because you want to shoot a chicken at 60yds, and then with the same set-up, shoot out to 200yds. Burris inserts or shims would be impractical, too much trouble to swap out during a match. I hope you try it with the clicks and get back to us. Thanks, Douglas
 
I'm trying to get basically the same game going here.
I'm building my 1411 & 16XX into my 200yd BR rigs.
I sent a T36 and BR36 to TK LEE for a new reticle.
I went with 1/8 min dots
1 - 6 moa up on the verticle
1- on the intersection
1- 9 moa down on the verticle

Figured it would help me stay in the meat of the scopes
adjustment range.
 
I'm playing with my Annie MPR at longer ranges and am very excited about the HotRod9mm 20MOA Extended Scope Rail. It is very well made and locks down using the factory D&T mounting holes with supplied stainless hex screws(set screws supplied if your receiver is not D&T). I used one of these on my CZ and it really helped. I admit to having a long learning curve with my T-36. It focuses down with no problems and the clicks work as they should, however the high magnification points out all of my faults! Regards
CIMG1010.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
So: Hags to the rescue! He said: ". . . out to 200 yards . . . I have not had any elevation problems at all."
Click to expand...

You guys are a rough crowd, take it easy on the sarcasm. Like I said, I have shot 25 yards indoors and 200 yards outdoors with the same scope. I have not shot at that distance for competition though, just to see what my rifle and I are capable of. :confused:
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Joe, the trick with shimming is to make the first shim a little narrower than the ring, then next a little narrower etc. That way, you won't pinch the tube sideways. In other words, the scope tube sets on the edge of the shims except for the last one. I also find that you only need about 5 to 7 inch pounds to keep the scope tight. No need for lapping. Since this sport allows no sighters after the initial sight in period, the scopes must be capable of repeat adjustments and mine does.

I turn my scope up one revolution and then add shims until I am close to zero at 50 yards. I sometimes think two would center the adjustment range a bit better.

On another matter, I believe you will be using the same rules that we use and I would like to discuss them with you. Would you prefer a PM here, at RFC or an e mail.

Jim
 
Sarcasm?

Hags: I meant that "rescue" word as a complement. Sorry of I have offended you.

Your post made me thing of cranking up the elevation on my T-36, and it worked. No sarcasm intended.

But, how many other scopes will get to 200 yards without raising the rear scope ring?

I've made a commitment here at our club to promote 200 yard rimfire and if I can find some simple solutions to the elevation problem, it might have a chance to fly.

If not, I see a failure in my future.

Joe Haller
 
Joe Haller said:
Hags: I meant that "rescue" word as a complement. Sorry of I have offended you.

Your post made me thing of cranking up the elevation on my T-36, and it worked. No sarcasm intended.

But, how many other scopes will get to 200 yards without raising the rear scope ring?

I've made a commitment here at our club to promote 200 yard rimfire and if I can find some simple solutions to the elevation problem, it might have a chance to fly.

If not, I see a failure in my future.

Joe Haller
Click to expand...

No problem, wasn't sure, my bad. You could use the Burris Signature Zee rings with the interchangable inserts to get you closer. That's a cost effective, relatively inexpensive, alternative.
 
With respect, MKnarr, I have to disagree. I believe, and experience over the last half century of shooting bears me out, that, most of the time, shimming is a perfectly horrible idea, especially when lapping does not follow. Please, no tales of how "it's worked for me over the last XX years..", I know, I know.

If it HAS worked, you are especially lucky, or especially skilled. To recommend it to everyone, especially with a "no lapping required" comment, is a recipie for disaster. JMHO, your mileage may (and obviously does) vary.
 
I'm tellin ya mine is the way to go
Gonna use Burris sigs mounted in the offsets to have the
Top dot on @ 50 at one third up from the bottom of adjustment range,
Should put mid dot on or close to @ 100
The lower dot should be close @ 150
And I figure ball park of 10 moa dial in for 200

No kinks - meat of the adjustment range

In theory:eek:

Waiting on the scope return now.
Wish I could find the time go sanctioned route with the rest of ya but
with my job and commitments I have to amuse myself.
And not that way:p
 
I have alot of customers who are silhouette shooters that do not shim and have said they have never found it necessary. On hunterclass rifles yes but not their dedicated silhouette rigs.

750k2; I agree with the theory, I don't think it's necessary in reality.
 
Old Swede, again, no offense but the instructions which came with my Weaver T-36 and T-24 both say "...as gunsmiths know, is to place a shim between scope and ring". The problem comes in when, as "The American Rifleman" points out, is when people try to make things farmer tight. And when folks try to make all the shims full ring wide.

Yes, some of our folks use Burris rings but many of us don't.
 
On shims and match organization . . .

Jim:
Thanks for the information on shimming. I think I understand what you mean by using 3 or more shims. (see the graphic below) Is this what you mean?
Ringbases.jpg


OldSwede:
I am with you on shimming without lapping, but IF I understand Jim's method, the lapping of 3 or four brass shims set up in layers should go fast.

Jim:
I would like to have a discussion on 200 yard metallic silhouette here on RFC. I say that because some of the members here may get some information that would help them set up matches at their own clubs. Matches don't just happen. Someone with some organizational skills and a little interest, MAKE matches happen. I call those shooters "sparkplugs". They need some help, but the sparkplug fires up the volunteer engine.

Joe :)
 
Again, with respect, regarding Weaver's instructions: It doesn't cost Weaver a dime when you mar up your scope or (God help us) kink it by shimming; actually it might help their scope selling business.

I agree with your remark regarding "tightness"; unfortunately, not too many of us have good, reliable, inch-pound torque screwdrivers.

I simply don't see why anyone would mess around with a 2 cent shim on a $400.+ scope. But then, that's just me.

Again, only my opinion. Worth just what you paid for it.
 
Maybe I'm weird but I like to shim the scope mount rather than the ring. I find out how much I need to shim first. Then I get some 1" round stock and clamp the rings on it. I put some release agent (shoe polish) on the gun/mount/screws and a little epoxy on the mount and put it in place and lightly torque it down. The 1" stock insures the rings won't bend the scope and the epoxy makes sure the (now inclined) mount fits like a glove. Works for me.

BTW, Hoppe's #9 is great for cleaning up any extra epoxy. Use some masking tape on the stock too.


Russ
 
Silhouette size . . .

We have 80 of the 1/5th scale rimfire silhouettes. Got them 3 years ago when we decided to build the 200 yard range. I shot some 3/8 animals at a pistol match in Iron Mountain. Most of the guys were shooting centerfire pistols. I was using a semiauto rimfire. I would hit a ram at 100 yards and it would just sit there.

Here is where we got the 1/5th size animals.

http://www.raystargets.netfirms.com/

Joe :)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top