stuck cases

[Bnhpr]

If the headspace is correct now, by the time you increased the taper at the rear of the chamber a thou or 2, you would have extremely excessive headspace.

So ...he needs a new reamer?

What indicates his headspace is ok? Just because the bolt closes easily?

 

[Dennis Sorensen]

So ...he needs a new reamer?

What indicates his headspace is ok? Just because the bolt closes easily?

I said, "If the headspace is correct now,"

Head space is set when the gunsmith chambers and fits the barrel. Normally a steel go gauge is used. The stripped bolt should close on the steel go gauge. The bolt should not close on a steel no go gauge. If these conditions are met, the headspace is correct. The bolt is normally stripped so the "feel" is more sensitive.... you have more "feel".

 

[Don]

Dont wast money on a new reamer......

..........taper bore chamber wall to .002" larger diameter using a blind hole 3/8" dia. boring bar, polish if needed..................Don

 

[longshooter]

taper bore chamber wall to .002" larger diameter using a blind hole 3/8" dia. boring bar, polish if needed..................Don

SMOOTH.....!

this is the same thing i did with my .380 acp to shoot larger bullets, let's see..., .355" bullets, .360" groove, ...what to do? enlarge the chamber to shoot larger dia bullets, worked to a point, but eventually bullet pull gets in the way. didn't hurt to try. a little better shooting, than previously.

but i definitely like your solution, if a tight chamber is the problem.

 

[mbp]

been gone a few days

thanks for the input. headspace is correct. cast chamber, it looks perfect,measures correctly according to reamer measurements---reamer is "off the shelf" and measures exactly as the saami print in the loading catalog. I ran all of my brass (which is extinct until jan 09) through a sizing die---which is my problem ...I think I have a faulty die. once new brass is ran through it ,it will chamber, but just barely. then when fired, one out of about five wil stick. however, new untouched brass will function properly as well as factory ammo...with no pressure signs,or extraction problems. the die was set up properly. the problem is at the shoulder case wall junction---the sized brass measures the same as the chamber here. if I try to push the shoulder back with the die, the problem gets worse. I've done a lot of head-scratching,figgerin an measurin lately or i would have responded sooner. I'll cast my die ASAP and maybe can see the problem. I found another rifle chambered with the same reamer, and my cases would not even chamber in it. this is what really tipped me off. DOES ANYONE KNOW WHERE i CAN GET 300 RUM BRASS???? I'VE ORDERED ANOTHER DIE, NOT 100% SURE IT WILL FIX ME??? I'm goin huntin in 7 days and have sticky ammo. ThANKS

 

[Bnhpr]

..........taper bore chamber wall to .002" larger diameter using a blind hole 3/8" dia. boring bar, polish if needed..................Don

...just start peeling the steel out of it with a boring bar...how bout putting a grinder on it? Or a stub drill?

good luck indicating that... no kidding....a recipe for a ruined barrel...tell us Don, how you would dial that in concentric......

Maybe no stuck brass, but you would have to throw the brass in the trash after once fired, if you didn't end up with a face full of it.

I think you should start measuring and find out where the problem is before hacking away...as recommended by others.

 

[Don]

...just start peeling the steel out of it with a boring bar...how bout putting a grinder on it? Or a stub drill?

good luck indicating that... no kidding....a recipe for a ruined barrel...tell us Don, how you would dial that in concentric......

Maybe no stuck brass, but you would have to throw the brass in the trash after once fired, if you didn't end up with a face full of it.

I think you should start measuring and find out where the problem is before hacking away...as recommended by others.

You are correct Ben, if lathe boring is beyond your capabilities, then Ben, you ought to avoid this process.............for all others with even moderate capabilities, give it a try, no problems...................Don

 

[Bnhpr]

You are correct Ben, if lathe boring is beyond your capabilities, then Ben, you ought to avoid this process.............for all others with even moderate capabilities, give it a try, no problems...................Don

I think think mbp's post says it all...the problem was elsewhere. If he had have followed your advice...well you know.....big mess.

Couldn't help myself for getting the jump on you.

Don, if reading is beyond your capabilities....maybe you should avoid that process.

I said "indicating"....

I think you know the boring is the easy part. getting a barrel back in the lathe (setup) is a different kettle of fish.

 

[Boyd Allen]

Try this. Measure the diameter of a tight fired case at about .300 above the head, or where ever the diameter is greatest, then FL size the case with a .001 shoulder bump and remeasure. Is there a difference? How much?

 

[alinwa]

Well there goes Boyd interjecting with the voice of reason again....


He's RIGHT'cha know..... it'd be a good idea'r to check some measurements before we'all talk you into fatting the chamber out!


Thanks Boyd!





al

 

[mbp]

solved thanks

I had a new die overnighted and it fixed my problem. I'm sure there are flubb ups that occur with every manufacturer. The new die (cheaper and another brand that I never use) works flawlessly. the other manufacturer assures me that they plug gauge every die they send out---but this wouldn't catch a ring of about 0.0005(guessing) where my problem was at. I assume a reamer flute or chip got smeared around the shoulder\wall junction---but don't know yet because my die has not been cast yet. I suppose that the (bad) die might work with a factory chamber---when I come across one I'll try it out. thanks for the ideas and help mp

 

[Jay Idaho]

When I went to Norma brass in my 6.5-284 that had been made with a reamer spec'd for Winchester brass, I had to open the chamber a few thou at the base. I put the barrel back in the lathe, dialed it in, set the compound slightly greater than the angle of the chamber taper and bored out about .0015-.002 per side. A very sharp boring bar is necessary to do this and I removed material from about 1/2" of the chamber. Polished it with some 400 and all was well.
The Norma and Lapua brass was quite a bit larger at the base than the original Winchester brass. New reamers were spec'd to be correct.