Solder rem 700 bolt handle after timing

Greyfox said:
The story I mentioned refers to a time when Saul went prophet shopping in support of an action he had already determined to take. The prophet Micaiah blew him off and told him what he wanted to hear initially. When Saul demanded that he be told the truth. Micaiah told him that he (Saul) would die. Which he did. Over the past months you have repeatedly asked for advice/instruction about numerous projects and got pissed when some experienced, knowledgeable folks told you the truth. You also insist that you have put them on your ignore list, which is redundant as you clearly already ignore anything that doesn't fit with what you have already decided to do. My suggestion is that you go ahead and do what you intend anyway. Surely the Lord will bless your efforts. :rolleyes: As to being put on your ignore list, I'll just have to live with that. I surely won't ignore you as it's a lot like watching a train wreck in slow motion. A person just can't look away.

Rick
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God loves people using the Bible to support them being a jerk. Nice witness buddy. You’re added per request. Being willing to listen and learn shouldn't require a person to get crap from people he doesn’t know to get that info. I was raised to be respectful but when pushed, you don’t back down from long winded, arrogant know-it-alls. This site doesn’t have a monopoly on experience or knowledge. Too bad the good guys have to deal with a handful of keyboard tough guys.

Tell ya what. Let’s call off the name calling and backstabbing. Save it for if/when you see me in person at a competition or shot show. Be real men. Be respectful on here and if you have a problem say it to my face. I didn’t start the snotty comments, but I have no problems addressing them in person.
 
1911Nut said:
I guess you can get some help on this site but geeze you sure have to put up with a lot of crap.
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There are some great guys here that have been helpful, which is why I’m here. There is a group like aoc and the squad that loves to act tough from their basements. They don’t want questions why, just do what they say. If you can’t answer a question then you aren’t experienced enough to teach.
 
Dave Tooley said:
You can get a lot of help if you're willing to listen.
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This shows you have no idea how this got started, Dave. Don’t put blame on me without having the facts. Look back at the headspace thread that started all this and see that I was nice while being blasted, then had enough. I’m happy to learn from good teachers, not some of these guys. Don’t like me, stay out of the thread. If you won’t talk about the topic, go elsewhere
 
Mram10,
Solder rem 700 bolt handle after timing-

First & foremost said handle needs to be TIMED prior to "soldering".
Second- If you insist on "soldering" you would be better served to glue said handle,as that process requires no heat.
Third- Prep the surfaces by removing the Cadmium Free silver braze from the bolt body & bolt handle,since mixing alloy's is not like water colors to change the color.
Fourth-Match your flux & Cadmium Type Silver Braze Alloy,from the same manufacturer,never mix brands.
Lastly-Brazing is the correct terminology(higher temps)


Inspect said bolt handle for any deficiencies.
(a gas torch will not fix the above issues)
A specialty "V" block is you best handle fixturing device verified by the obvious.

TIG H'sink & Purge is your best option.
(If your rhythm suffers,Pulse is your option)

Fixturing with a rotating piece into the aft end of said bolt body is pre-school ignorance.

TIG-
<150 Amp DCSP
Start Hi Freq
(Pulse if rhythm suffers)
15-20 CFH Argon
60-80 CFH Helium for increase heat/color spectrum.
.040" tungsten
.060" tungsten if torch manipulation is shaky/lacking
filler material

Get on it,Torch Manipulation,Get Off it!

There is NOT a bolt handle in existence that was/is designed to be fusion TIG welded, no matter which You Tube video you watch.

If carbon is raised by said TIG process,atmospheric conditions have taught you a lesson...hopefully!!

Good Luck

I've led the horse to water...per say!!
 
Amazing you just had to get all of those insulting words in and you expect to get respect? All you are doing is pissing off all those who do have the vast knowledge of which you have been claiming to seek.
 
Mram10 said:
This shows you have no idea how this got started, Dave. Don’t put blame on me without having the facts. Look back at the headspace thread that started all this and see that I was nice while being blasted, then had enough. I’m happy to learn from good teachers, not some of these guys. Don’t like me, stay out of the thread. If you won’t talk about the topic, go elsewhere
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Sensitive are we. I don't think I quoted you in my response.
 
Dave, sure seemed like I’m the one in discussion. If that wasn’t your intent, I apologize.

Louis, dan40, you guys have been on ignore for a long time. Feel free to waste other people’s time. Luckily, I don’t see your trash
 
Wonder why mrap ain't on the Practical Machinist gunsmith forum any more? Same as here, he asks for advice and then demeans the guy that gives him advice that he doesn't like.
 
Your response is what gets you every time. Dans40X has tig welded more bolt handles than any person and you put him on ignore? You deserve whatever is heaped on you.
 
"Your response is what gets you every time. Dans40X has tig welded more bolt handles than any person and you put him on ignore? You deserve whatever is heaped on you".
Where's the LIKE button???:cool::cool:
 
1911Nut said:
I guess you can get some help on this site but geeze you sure have to put up with a lot of crap.
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I just have to save this in case you reconsider and take it down...... cuz geeze I get tired of snowflakes and their fragile egos.
 
Wow that Bolt is quite the mess and if that's what you might be wanting to fix. You might be able cut that knob off turn down the shank and single point cut the threads for an after market knob to screw back on it.
 
Dans40X said:
Mram10,
Solder rem 700 bolt handle after timing-

First & foremost said handle needs to be TIMED prior to "soldering".
Second- If you insist on "soldering" you would be better served to glue said handle,as that process requires no heat.
Third- Prep the surfaces by removing the Cadmium Free silver braze from the bolt body & bolt handle,since mixing alloy's is not like water colors to change the color.
Fourth-Match your flux & Cadmium Type Silver Braze Alloy,from the same manufacturer,never mix brands.
Lastly-Brazing is the correct terminology(higher temps)


Inspect said bolt handle for any deficiencies.
(a gas torch will not fix the above issues)
A specialty "V" block is you best handle fixturing device verified by the obvious.

TIG H'sink & Purge is your best option.
(If your rhythm suffers,Pulse is your option)

Fixturing with a rotating piece into the aft end of said bolt body is pre-school ignorance.

TIG-
<150 Amp DCSP
Start Hi Freq
(Pulse if rhythm suffers)
15-20 CFH Argon
60-80 CFH Helium for increase heat/color spectrum.
.040" tungsten
.060" tungsten if torch manipulation is shaky/lacking
filler material

Get on it,Torch Manipulation,Get Off it!

There is NOT a bolt handle in existence that was/is designed to be fusion TIG welded, no matter which You Tube video you watch.

If carbon is raised by said TIG process,atmospheric conditions have taught you a lesson...hopefully!!

Good Luck

I've led the horse to water...per say!!
Click to expand...

Thanks for that! I think I've learned a few things (in a book-learning, not skill-developing sort of sense). Hopefully you'll entertain some dumb questions. Can you explain "Helium for increase in heat/color spectrum"? Do you mean you can see the heat affected zone better? I'll further admit my preschool ignorance by asking why the rotating fixture is amateur hour?

I have a loooonnnnng way to go before I'd TIG anything I care about, but I'm trying to get there. Input from a pro is much appreciated!

GsT
 
alinwa said:
I just have to save this in case you reconsider and take it down...... cuz geeze I get tired of snowflakes and their fragile egos.
Click to expand...

I prefer the exchange of information about guns and gunsmithing without the nastiness and personal attacks.
 
Trust Dan as he does know his business. I've used Dan for maybe 20years and he has done many jobs for me. He is very helpful but will not put up with BS!
 
GeneT,
In lay mans terms-
From the inception in the mid 50's
The term Heli-Arc used helium as the inert shielding gas.
Using helium will relate to an amperage increase(+20-+30amps) & a pinkish hue of reflected light of the arc,but requires 3X the gas volume as argon.(60-80CFH)
Argon is the inert shielding gas used today 99% of the time due to 1/3 less gas usage & cost compared to using helium.(15-25CFH)
The use of argon will present a blue reflected light.

Other gases to include hydrogen are mixed for specialty welds.

Any firearm TIG welding that I've done in the past 40years hasn't required more then 100amps DCSP.

DCSP-Direct Current Straight Polarity is ground positive/electrode negative w/ rare earth(grey),1%,1.5%,2% Lanthanated(gold) or Thoriated(red) tungsten electrode..
used for any steels,stainless,inconel,monel,titanium.
DCRP-Direct Current Reverse Polarity is ground negative/electrode positive.
used for micro/plasma operations.
grind tungsten point to 2/3 diameter longitudinally,not like sharpening a pencil or arc wander will prevail & piss off the operator in short order.
AC-alternating current w/continuous high frequency to stabilize the arc w/ balled pure tungsten(green).
used for aluminum,magnesium.

Pulse is a pre-programmed or manually adjusted/set lower to higher amperage to reduce heat input into the parent material & also works well filler welding aluminum/magnesium for white boys w/o rhythm who cant/don't dance!!

TIG-Tungsten Inert Gas welding is not a short arc process so there is not any sparks/spatter in the process like SMAW or MIG welding.

Any questions-post/pm/e-mail it !!
 
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