Shilen triggers

Pete, that's been my problem all my life. The trigger was assembled by someone who put his pants on just like I did this morning, one leg at a time. So I can disassemble it. Putting it back together has been the problem at times.😣
 
Well, here's the deal. As I recall the Shilen's are riveted together so I am wondering if folks take them apart, can they re-use the rivet heads ?
 
I watched a vid today on "Fixing" the problem with Remington triggers. The lad presenting stated the Shilen trigger was very much like the Remington with the fix he was doing done. The Rem trigger has a pin holding the trigger lever that can be driven out where as the Shilen seems to be riveted in unless that dome is some sort of screw. I don't have my Shilen trigger with me and won't see it until around Apr 20. I was fishing to see if anyone would share how they took that domed end off that pin or rivet.

Ya know, people who answer sometimes must believe most of the world around them are idiots, it seems to me or they drink way too much too often.
 
OP,
WHY would you need to un-rivet the side plates?
IF,upon disassembly a burr is witnessed on the inside of either side plate-stone the burr away.
Push the trigger lever pivot pin out of the housing from Rt to Lt.

Disassemble a M.Walker 700 trigger group, a Shilen is a copy.
 
Dans40X said:
OP,
WHY would you need to un-rivet the side plates?
IF,upon disassembly a burr is witnessed on the inside of either side plate-stone the burr away.
Push the trigger lever pivot pin out of the housing from Rt to Lt.

Disassemble a M.Walker 700 trigger group, a Shilen is a copy.
Click to expand...
Grind the bubble off the trigger lever pin or does it unscrew?

As a standard practice, I have stoned the faces of all the moving parts and side plates with every Jewell Triger I have owned. Just makes sense to me to have everything as flat as it can be. Some of the Jewell triggers I have cleaned for friends were totally gummed up. Still working but sticky gummy tan coating on everything. Why wouldn't anyone and or everyone take their triggers apart and make them as good as they could be? We aren't talking Rocket Science here.
 
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Pete Wass said:
Grind the bubble off the trigger lever pin or does it unscrew?

As a standard practice, I have stoned the faces of all the moving parts and side plates with every Jewell Triger I have owned. Just makes sense to me to have everything as flat as it can be. Some of the Jewell triggers I have cleaned for friends were totally gummed up. Still working but sticky gummy tan coating on everything. Why wouldn't anyone and or everyone take their triggers apart and make them as good as they could be? We aren't talking Rocket Science here.
Click to expand...
When you pay a premium price for a premium trigger wouldn't it be expected that the critical parts be stoned and burrs removed?
 
antelopedundee said:
When you pay a premium price for a premium trigger wouldn't it be expected that the critical parts be stoned and burrs removed?
Click to expand...
The Jewell triggers were an excellent product at what I considered to be an extremely reasonable price. If Jewell had done all of the tweaks (that you can do yourself at no cost) the price would likely have doubled. Most Jewell users simply put them in and went happily on their way winning tournaments with just routine cleaning. The ease of working on a Jewell makes them the 'Small Block Chevy' of triggers. :)

Good shootin' -Al
 
Here's a Shilen that I just finished up....didn't end up taking the side plates off this one. After cleaning it in acetone, I dunked it in CRC's Evapo Rust overnight. They come out squeaky clean and ready for a soak in lighter fluid. The roll pin for the third lever protrudes out the side a bit so the trigger hanger needs a couple notches to clear it. On the Shilens, the front pin fit is a nice press fit with your thumb. The rear cross pin is tighter in the side plates by design. Make double-damn sure you use a pin that has a tapered leading edge or you'll bend the side plate. I push one in from the other side to align it and then push that one out with the new pin going in.

A few pics for those interested. :) -Al

BMUfmF5l.jpg

WifJOg0l.jpg

tzDHmtEl.jpg

o7Gx6yOl.jpg

MKR82qDl.jpg

WPbQfm3l.jpg

0hSjV1Al.jpg
 
Al Nyhus said:
Here's a Shilen that I just finished up....didn't end up taking the side plates off this one. After cleaning it in acetone, I dunked it in CRC's Evapo Rust overnight. They come out squeaky clean and ready for a soak in lighter fluid. The roll pin for the third lever protrudes out the side a bit so the trigger hanger needs a couple notches to clear it. On the Shilens, the front pin fit is a nice press fit with your thumb. The rear cross pin is tighter in the side plates by design. Make double-damn sure you use a pin that has a tapered leading edge or you'll bend the side plate. I push one in from the other side to align it and then push that one out with the new pin going in.

A few pics for those interested. :) -Al

BMUfmF5l.jpg

WifJOg0l.jpg

tzDHmtEl.jpg

o7Gx6yOl.jpg

MKR82qDl.jpg

WPbQfm3l.jpg

0hSjV1Al.jpg
Click to expand...
Thanks AL.
 
Actually the configuration of the Shilen trigger is exactly what many BR 'smiths did to the original Rem 700 triggers before Jewel, and now the good foreign triggers came along. I did many of them back in the early '90's, and they worked pretty well.

If you can get your hands on a copy of Stuart Otteson's booklet "Benchrest Actions and Triggers", there are pictures of several versions of the 3 lever type triggers. They are all takeoffs of the Rem. 40X trigger Mike Walker cooked up.
I believe the picture Al provided came from the Otteson booklet.

FWIW
Steve Kostanich
 
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