Scope slipping in rings

I don't like Loctite of any kind in ring screws. It is not required. Tight screws in rings don't loosen with age or use. A believe in torquing base and ring screws to at least 45 inch pounds and then a little bit more.
 
Dennis Sorensen said:
I don't like Loctite of any kind in ring screws. It is not required. Tight screws in rings don't loosen with age or use. A believe in torquing base and ring screws to at least 45 inch pounds and then a little bit more.
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Dennis a fellow shooter got in trouble with a high end BR scope over torquing the ring halfs together. He dimpled the tube and this in turn affected the poi via the erector tube. Supplier told him around 10 inch lbs max.
 
glp said:
Dennis a fellow shooter got in trouble with a high end BR scope over torquing the ring halfs together. He dimpled the tube and this in turn affected the poi via the erector tube. Supplier told him around 10 inch lbs max.
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If slippage is a problem and one is to use only 10 inch pounds, you should probably lap the bottom halves and bed the scope with epoxy in the bottom half... Very few rings do not benefit from lapping. I have removed and installed some of my scopes many times from rings that have been lapped and with powdered rosin... you can not see anything that would indicate the scope has been in a ring...
 
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I do not lap the bottom half of scope rings. I "rough sand" the bottom half a little,you just want to put some scratches on the surface. I then bed them with epoxy. The epoxy adheres better to the rough surface.

It's an old technique that's been around for a long time. If you decide to lap the bottom half,be careful to not over do it.



Glenn
 
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My scope kept slipping forward on the 30BR Nesika action/dovetail with Kelby 4 screw rings torqued 20 in. lbs. I removed a lead bullet from a .22 rimfire case, and put it point down against the front base screw hole, tapped it in place with my brass hammer, leaving about 1/8th" protrude. Thus, the front ring is mounted behind it, and it can not slide beyond that point. The lead projection does stay in place, and is easily removed by prying it up with an awl.
 
tenring: I did something similar using a dowel pin and always use a dab of epoxy between the ring and the rail/base for added insurance. You can also see the epoxy bedding under the base for 100% contact to the reciever.

Good shootin'. -Al

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