Scope and Bore not parallel

I always lay the mirror on a flat surface, like a work bench, light from above.

Stand the scope up on the objective end on the mirror.
 
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As I write this,I have a 40X scope standing on the objective end on a flat mirror,inside an artificially lighted room. I can barely see one set of crosshairs.

What would be the correct lighting for this experiment? Just Curious.



Glenn

Just a thought, are the edges of the mirror covered? Maybe if they aren't you'd get more light in. Maybe a piece of mirror tile would work better. I've got a Leupold comp 45X I'm going to be mounting soon and will try this.
 
????
current rings come with some inserts other than zero.....additional would be based on just how far he has to move the scope to be happy.

The Burris Signature Zee Rings come with inserts that have NO offset, to achieve any advantage with regard to aligning the scope to the bore you would need to use the inserts included in the "insert kit". Instructions for the selection of the proper insets to correct your specific problem are included with the kit.

Dick
 
i have SIX packages in my bin...all have two full sets of inserts.
the 30mm come with "0"'s and "10"'s...maybe the 1" come with one set...."0"'s...maybe

The Burris Signature Zee Rings come with inserts that have NO offset, to achieve any advantage with regard to aligning the scope to the bore you would need to use the inserts included in the "insert kit". Instructions for the selection of the proper insets to correct your specific problem are included with the kit.

Dick
 
I had the same issue with a Remington 1917 receiver a friend modified for 300 H&H. When he removed the rear sight and dressed the receiver down it didn't match the front of the receiver. When I mounted a picitinny rail on the receiver the rail was off to the left about .012". I recut the radius on the bottom of the rail but was still off about .006" and I didn't want to set up and recut the rail. I bought a set of Millet adjustable rings and dialed the scope and barrel in on my mill to as close to .000" as I could get. The scope is still a little off to the left and I will have to do the finial adjustments at the range.

I intend to do some 1000 yd competition with the rifle as well as some long range hunting out West so I want the windage crosshair to be as near zero as possible. To be honest I don't think any receiver is exactly the same front to rear unless it's machined from a solid bar. If it's forged it will be off some. The rifle was a gift so I had to make it work for my satisfaction as well as my friend.
 
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i do not think..that drill and retap will fix....more like mill the hole on center, then retap..
all of which is much more complicated and expensive when compared to burris signature rings.

Yep, you are correct.
 
In other words, I have 22 MOA available of Left windage, and 38 MOA available for right windage.

When push comes to shove this is not really a very big deal, ideally you want the scope centered in its range of travel. But as a practical matter I have never in 35 years of BR shooting used more than about 2 MOA of windage adjustments. But if you really want it centered the Burris Rings are your best. and least expensive. route IMO.
Dick
 
Eurika!

Well open my door and come in this house!

I just now read this thread and I tried this on the wall mirror in the bath in my office. I took a BSA Sweet 22 2-7x and placed the objective end flat on the mirror. The scope was set at 2x and the wall light above the mirror was on. I looked through the scope and there were two sets of crosshairs, clear as a bell. The main one was more definite and the other could be described as a reflected image. I turned the power up to 7x and the results were the same.

It took longer to write this then it did to preform the operation. Now I am going to put this on a rifle and see how far I have to move the windage.

Concho Bill
 
When push comes to shove this is not really a very big deal, ideally you want the scope centered in its range of travel. But as a practical matter I have never in 35 years of BR shooting used more than about 2 MOA of windage adjustments. But if you really want it centered the Burris Rings are your best. and least expensive. route IMO.
Dick

Dick, You are talking point blank……. You can run out of windage and have to hold the next target at 1000. If the scope is centered just count clicks and bring it back half way. Maybe the barrel needs indexed???… jim
 
I always thought that you loosened the 3 small allen screws at the top edge of the turret, spin to align the 'zero's', and viola! scope is zeroed!!!

;):rolleyes::cool:

Wolfdawg
 
Windage Adjustable Rings

If you want, I have a set of 1" windage adjustable rings for Weaver style mounts, that I am no longer using I would send you to try. The windage adjustable rings have screws on both sides, where they connect to the base, allowing them to be adjusted independently from side to side. I have used similar rings on several rifles. I was taught to first count clicks from side to side to center the crosshairs within the scope. Then, assuming the crosshairs are centered, the front and rear windage adjustable rings are alternately moved in opposite directions in very small increments (to avoid stress on the scope tube) until the view of the crosshairs through the scope boresights to dead center. What you are doing with these rings is to rotate the entire scope side to side, to align it with the bore.
 
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Sorry if already covered

I just mounted a Nightforce Scope on my Remington Sendero 700 Action. Nightforce 20MOA base and Nightforce rings. Scope is NF 5.5-22x56 and has 60MOA of windage adjustment (100MOA Elev).

When I zero'd the gun at 100yd, no wind, the scope is not centered for windage. With the impacts centered on the paper at 100yds, the scope shows 8 MOA left of scope mechanical center. In other words, I have 22 MOA available of Left windage, and 38 MOA available for right windage. A gunsmith has recommended Millet Windage adjustable rings to center the scope. I was told shimming the base was a big NO. Are there any other suggestions??

btw, my 2 benchrest guns with BAT actions are less than 1 MOA out of center in the same scenario.

Are you sure the base was milled true? David Sams, a gunsmith with a lot of experience, states that on his tactical or competition rifle builds he never trusts commercial rails since so many he has tried have been milled askew. He mills his own to ensure alignment.
Keith
 
Are you sure the base was milled true? David Sams, a gunsmith with a lot of experience, states that on his tactical or competition rifle builds he never trusts commercial rails since so many he has tried have been milled askew. He mills his own to ensure alignment.
Keith

You could get a new barrel but windage adjustable rings would be a lot less expensive. While confessing that I am not an experienced competition shooter, I have used such rings on several rifles and have come to appreciate how they center the scope, giving me full range left and right for windage. Once set, I can even change scopes, without needing to reset the rings, once they are aligned with the bore.
 
As I write this,I have a 40X scope standing on the objective end on a flat mirror,inside an artificially lighted room. I can barely see one set of crosshairs.

What would be the correct lighting for this experiment? Just Curious.



Glenn
Glenn, when i do this with my vari x hunting scopes i have to turn the power down low or i cant see the two crosshairs.
 
I realized on my own that I wanted to get the crosshairs in the middle of the scope tube, but I did not figure out the mirror trick.

I would put the scope in a rifle with only the bottom halves of the rings installed. Then I would rotate the scope while looking through. I would adjust the elevation and windage until the cross hair center stayed on one point in the background.

That is at least a 5 minute operation.

Once I read about the mirror trick a couple years ago, I don't do it that way anymore. The mirror can be done in a minute. Sometimes I shine a flashlight in from the side.

Now that I am retired from engineering, my goal is to keep making scope mounts in the home shop.

Here is 12 second video of my boresighting.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KJXO8kaXfJI

If you want to see how I modified the Leupold zero point, that is a 32 minute video. It would make you sleepy.
 
I just mounted a Nightforce Scope on my Remington Sendero 700 Action. Nightforce 20MOA base and Nightforce rings. Scope is NF 5.5-22x56 and has 60MOA of windage adjustment (100MOA Elev).

When I zero'd the gun at 100yd, no wind, the scope is not centered for windage. With the impacts centered on the paper at 100yds, the scope shows 8 MOA left of scope mechanical center. In other words, I have 22 MOA available of Left windage, and 38 MOA available for right windage. A gunsmith has recommended Millet Windage adjustable rings to center the scope. I was told shimming the base was a big NO. Are there any other suggestions??

btw, my 2 benchrest guns with BAT actions are less than 1 MOA out of center in the same scenario.


With all that expensive hardware on board, the problem is likely the scope. I'd send the it back to the manufacturer for adjustment. Even with $$$$ scopes there is no guarantee that the assembler did everything perfectly.
 
With all that expensive hardware on board, the problem is likely the scope. I'd send the it back to the manufacturer for adjustment. Even with $$$$ scopes there is no guarantee that the assembler did everything perfectly.

The most expensive scope and mounting hardware on earth will usually end up less than straight when mounted on a factory Remington. The OP's experience is very common and the scope is about the least likely suspect (Although nothing is impossible I guess).
 
Sounds like you haven't adjusted the eye bell.


That is probably it. Many people do not realize that you first need to get the crosshairs in focus before adjusting anything else. Try putting your scope at maximum magnification and focused at infinity, looking at some kind of blank background. Then screw the rear lens in and out to find where the crosshairs are at the sharpest possible focus. Once you have done that, the crosshairs should be in sharp focus at any distance and any magnification. Then you should lock the crosshair's focus with the locking ring. If it is not possible to get sharply focused crosshairs at any distance and magnification with this procedure, your scope needs repair, or it is a poor quality scope.
 
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