Scope and Bore not parallel

T

thekubiaks

New member
I just mounted a Nightforce Scope on my Remington Sendero 700 Action. Nightforce 20MOA base and Nightforce rings. Scope is NF 5.5-22x56 and has 60MOA of windage adjustment (100MOA Elev).

When I zero'd the gun at 100yd, no wind, the scope is not centered for windage. With the impacts centered on the paper at 100yds, the scope shows 8 MOA left of scope mechanical center. In other words, I have 22 MOA available of Left windage, and 38 MOA available for right windage. A gunsmith has recommended Millet Windage adjustable rings to center the scope. I was told shimming the base was a big NO. Are there any other suggestions??

btw, my 2 benchrest guns with BAT actions are less than 1 MOA out of center in the same scenario.
 
There's a way you can do it with a milling machine and a lapping bar. Using a set of tactical rings, determine which way the scope needs to be moved to center up. Then mill about .010" or less at a time off the dovetail of the front or rear ring depending upon which way you need to move. Then lap the rings for full contact with the lapping bar. If it takes very much to center the scope, you may have to remove some metal from the clamp side to make sure the ring is tight on the base. It doesn't take much metal to be removed and if you go too far, you might have to remove metal from the other rings dovetail. Once you have the scope centered for windage, marry those rings to that base and use no others. It will work,but is caused by the base screws drilled and tapped out of line with the action centerline. Use a bore sighter to check as you go. I've seen scopes with very little windage that were almost out of adjustment on windage and this took care of them. Of course, the less you need to move, take less off the ring.
 
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thekubiaks said:
I just mounted a Nightforce Scope on my Remington Sendero 700 Action. Nightforce 20MOA base and Nightforce rings. Scope is NF 5.5-22x56 and has 60MOA of windage adjustment (100MOA Elev).

When I zero'd the gun at 100yd, no wind, the scope is not centered for windage. With the impacts centered on the paper at 100yds, the scope shows 8 MOA left of scope mechanical center. In other words, I have 22 MOA available of Left windage, and 38 MOA available for right windage. A gunsmith has recommended Millet Windage adjustable rings to center the scope. I was told shimming the base was a big NO. Are there any other suggestions??

btw, my 2 benchrest guns with BAT actions are less than 1 MOA out of center in the same scenario.
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Tony Boyer has a possible solution for you. Please read the passage on scope alignment in his book. You would not have to do any metal work.

Frank
 
I agree with Mike. Many years ago he machined bases for me while they were mounted on the receiver.

I would also put 20 minutes of look down on the bases. With some Remington's this will get you back to level with the bore, because the top of the Remington receiver might have the contour of a basketball. If you are lucky 20 minutes might get you centered elevation at 400 meters. Beyond 400 you will need as much elevation as you can get and starting at center for elevation is a big help.

All this is why starting with a custom action; just might be cost effective;-)=
 
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B.Larson said:
why not just use Burris signature rings with delrin inserts...???
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The problem with the Burris rings with inserts is they are so inexpensive people think they are not high enough quality to use with something like an expensive NiteForce scope.
I find them excellent quality and I like the fact they do not put any marks on the scope that is why I use them on my March Scopes.
Dick
 
Not sure there is really a problem unless you're worried about losing vertical travel. There would have to be a hell of a gale blowing to need anywhere close to 22 minutes. But with that said I'd bet you have a common problem on the rear bridge. Because of the way they are polished the base cants to the rear and to the right pointing the muzzle to the right in relation to the scope. Bed and/or shim the rear base. I picked up on this after wrestling about a dozen Swarovski's 6-24's years ago.
 
while not a br shooter( yet)..i love burris signature rings....
i have a 30'06 that is d/t'd off center. burris rings fixed the error of the manufacture!
great grip with no marking.


Dick Grosbier said:
The problem with the Burris rings with inserts is they are so inexpensive people think they are not high enough quality to use with something like an expensive NiteForce scope.
I find them excellent quality and I like the fact they do not put any marks on the scope that is why I use them on my March Scopes.
Dick
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I'm curious to see what would happen if you flipped the rings around. If your windage condition reversed, you could then flip one ring around and it should correct. Only if something is wonky with the rings, of course. Or you could possibly correct this by having someone drill and tap the ring holes on the action to a larger size while correcting their location.
 
i do not think..that drill and retap will fix....more like mill the hole on center, then retap..
all of which is much more complicated and expensive when compared to burris signature rings.


JML said:
I'm curious to see what would happen if you flipped the rings around. If your windage condition reversed, you could then flip one ring around and it should correct. Only if something is wonky with the rings, of course. Or you could possibly correct this by having someone drill and tap the ring holes on the action to a larger size while correcting their location.
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Just a thought:

How did you know the scope was centered for windage and elevation before mounting it?

Did you center the crosshairs using the mirror trick and then re-zero the adjustment knobs?
 
Burris Signature Zee Rings

I agree with those who have suggested the Burris Signature Zee Rings, you'll have to purchase the insert kit that is sold separately, but this will solve your problem without drilling, tapping, lapping, etc..

Dick
 
????
current rings come with some inserts other than zero.....additional would be based on just how far he has to move the scope to be happy.

ConRich said:
I agree with those who have suggested the Burris Signature Zee Rings, you'll have to purchase the insert kit that is sold separately, but this will solve your problem without drilling, tapping, lapping, etc..

Dick
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John S said:
Just a thought:

How did you know the scope was centered for windage and elevation before mounting it?

Did you center the crosshairs using the mirror trick and then re-zero the adjustment knobs?
Click to expand...

Tell me about this mirror trick ive never heard of it before
 
Set the scope on a flat mirror, standing on the objective end.

With the correct lighting you will see two sets of crosshairs.

Adjust with knobs until crosshairs are aligned.

You now have the crosshairs centered in the scope.
 
Johns S - does that really work? I'm asking because I'm like Dusty and never heard of doing that!

I'm not a scope person of any degree whatsoever and that sounds good to me. Not that I would do anything about it but if I wanted to this would be good!
 
John S said:
Set the scope on a flat mirror, standing on the objective end.

With the correct lighting you will see two sets of crosshairs.

Adjust with knobs until crosshairs are aligned.

You now have the crosshairs centered in the scope.
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As I write this,I have a 40X scope standing on the objective end on a flat mirror,inside an artificially lighted room. I can barely see one set of crosshairs.

What would be the correct lighting for this experiment? Just Curious.



Glenn
 
I do the mirror trick at least once a year.

Right now I am in the process of switching scopes between rifles, so I have just went through the process.

I really thought I read about it here on BRC a few years back.

To get started with the experiment try it with a lower power scope like a 3X9. You are going to have to move your eyes/head around and up and down until you see the ghost image.

The reason I like this process is that you are highly unlikely to crank your adjustments to hard against the stopping point if you are trying to count clicks from one end to the other.

Best wishes.

Well shut the door!!!!!!!!! I found it on Leupolds website:

"Centering of a scope's adjustment dials
The elevation and windage adjustments of a scope are easily centered. Place a small mirror against the objective end of the scope. That would be the end farthest from your eye as you look through the scope. Make certain that the mirror is large enough to cover the entire objective. It must also be flat against the objective. With the scope's power selector ring set at the lowest magnification, look through the eyepiece as you would while aiming at a target. If the scope's windage and elevation adjustments are off center, you will see two images of the reticle (cross-hair). To reach the center of the adjustment range, simply turn the elevation and windage dials until you see only one image of the reticle. "
 
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Will this work with any mirror? I tried it with one of my wall mirrors, and could not see any light what so ever.
 
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