Ruger 77-22 project

D

Dennis Sorensen

Guest
I am sure someone must have done this already but I recently acquired a nice Anschutz Model 54 barrel and I have a Ruger 77-22...

I measured things up and found the bore of the action is the perfect size for tapping with a 3/4 x 16 tap... and the 54 barrel will easily thread for that... and in doing so the old chamber will be gone and a new match chamber cut...

I hope to finish this in a month or two... Right now I am too busy on customer's guns...

77-22%20action%20with%20text.jpg
 
Why not thread it in the lathe, at least to 90% and then the tap will be spot on?

Just an idea..
 
Bnhpr said:
Why not thread it in the lathe, at least to 90% and then the tap will be spot on?

Just an idea..
Click to expand...

I can not grab this action in my lathe... the tap will be plenty close enough. I will have the tap locked in the headstock and the action on a good fitting mandrel in the tail stock... and turn the action on to the tap with a wrench...
 
Please report back on how well the tap works. And if it works good what kind of a tap did you use. I threaded about 6 of these before giving up. The case hardening just ate up my taps. I purchased a $100 red band tap from Travers tool and it shattered in about 4 turns. I've been looking into boring out the case hardening and taping it with the 7/8X14 tap, and or pressing a threaded sleeve into the action. I have had some luck anealing the front of the receiver, but then I had to refinish it.
Kim
 
Fixinit said:
Please report back on how well the tap works. And if it works good what kind of a tap did you use. I threaded about 6 of these before giving up. The case hardening just ate up my taps. I purchased a $100 red band tap from Travers tool and it shattered in about 4 turns. I've been looking into boring out the case hardening and taping it with the 7/8X14 tap, and or pressing a threaded sleeve into the action. I have had some luck annealing the front of the receiver, but then I had to refinish it.
Kim
Click to expand...

Am I ever glad you posted this information... I was wondering how it would tap as it is casting... I don't think there is any heat treatment, I think it is just hard from the way it is made...

My decision is now an easy one... I am going to fit the barrel snug and Loctite tight it in place... I know that will work well and it only takes a bit of heat to remove it... I know Lilja drop in barrel have been installed that way successfully...

Thanks...:)
 
I have taped several of the 77-22's they are easy to tap just use plenty of cutting oil. I'm using import taps from MSC no problems as of yet, I use a std. tap and a bottoming tap to finish. I tap mine on the mill. Indicate the hole and start the tap in the collet, then go to the tap handle. The treaded barrel does help with accuracy.
 
Dennis,
I've got one in the shop right now, a stainless 77/22 with the factory heavy barrel. The customer when presented with all of the options and has elected too have it bored out larger and sleeved for the factory barrel. With the trigger hanger hanging way out there and the receiver being so delicate looking I’ll bore it out in the mill attached to a 90 degree angle plate. I admit that being a cast the receiver I’m concerned with using an interference fit on the sleeve so I’ll probably loctite in the sleeve with stud and bearing mount. I’ll make the sleeve from a stainless barrel stub with a loose slip fit in the receiver and a snug slip fit to the barrel.

Nic.
 
Several years ago I played with a couple 77/22s. I press fit the Lilja barrels by freezing the barrel/warming the receiver. Afterward I cross-pinned the barrel through the receiver with a solid pin. Getting the action bedded properly was the biggest issue for me. A heavy barrel adds stress to these little actions but they do shoot well when tuned.
 
Well I decided to fit the barrel to the action tight enough so I can slide it together by hand and when ready simply Loctite it in place...

It worked real well. The front action screw allowed me to lock it in place with the action and barrel level, and mark the extractor slots and then remove and make the slots and assemble and test the fit a few times until I was happy with it and the headspace. It is chambered using a match chambering reamer from Pacific Tool... the same reamer I have used on some Sako re barrels that have worked well.

Then I Loctited it using the permanent Loctite for cylindrical fitting of parts... it cures over night... inletted and glass bedded it up to the sight "bulge". The barrel can be removed by heating and driving it out of the action... and simply Loctited in place again..

Testing comes in a few days... but so far I like this method of fitting the barrel... I'll report back...

77-22%20barrel%20stamp.jpg
 
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