recommend a 3 phase converter..cost spread issue

I have an Hitachi 2.2kw for my lathe and an automation direct 2hp for my mill and am very happy with both. The automation direct drive was a little easier to set up, but both work well. Once you get the hang of reading the manuals and get yourself a membership to thehobbymachinist.com you will be all set. There is a member there, mksj, that is a wizard with these drives and has links of parameters to get the best from your drive. I use mine simply as a phase converter (inverter? I can't keep them straight) and don't use the speed pot or other features requiring a whole lot of extra wiring.
Hope this helps,
Mike.
I got my automation direct from their website and the hitachi from...maybe wolf automation? Amazon? I can't recall, but I went for the best price. I also picked up a breaking resistor from ebay for like $30 or so. Great addition to the machine and very easy to install. Stops a chuck going 1200rpms in about 2 seconds, and faster if I want in the slower speeds. Anything over 1200 rpms you would have to set the stop speed to about 4 seconds or so.
 
Both my mills are step pulley Bridgeports. One has a Hitachi VFD with speed control pots and braking resistors. The other is a Motortronics with speed control and braking resistors. I love them.
 
Vfd

retired said:
i am looking at a 3 phase converter for a 3hp 220 3p lathe.
strange price spread
under $100 or over $200
any input ?
here are 2 samples

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-2KW-3HP-...RIABLE-FREQUENCY-DRIVE-INVERTER-/232756241295

and
https://www.amazon.com/Teco-Variable-Frequency-L510-203-H1-N-Inverter/dp/B01IFEOVSE

thanks
Click to expand...

I used the Hitachi Wj200-022sf Variable Frequency Drive 3 HP 230 VAC Single Phase Input which is in the next bracket around $300.
Also depending on how safe you want the installation to be, you should have a "Safety Relay" like a Omron 9SX-G226-T15, which you wire up to stop the inverter working when you e/stop your machine. (I would suggest most don't do this, but I did)
You can try www.CLRWTR.com and ask about the cheaper drives.
 
i am planning on just phase conversion and std lathe speeds. knowing i can vary speed
if i pick up a vibration at a fixed speed is nice. i have seen others with this issue ,, so far i have not.
foot brake on the lathe so no need for a electric brake.

i'll go look at your suggestions.
 
i went with a lapond 4hp for 199. looked at the hitachi , but the current model
had no reviews.
got electricians coming over for an est to run 220.
a may have a working lathe before Christmas.
nice present to myself!

thanks
 
I use a static phase converter (PHASE-A-MATIC) on my Emco V13 Maximat 3 phase motor. It's worked well on my lathe for 15-17 years with no peoblem. I don't have a brake - foot or electric - on my lathe but I got plenty of time for it to come to a stop. I think I paid $100 for the PHASE-A-MATIC when I bought the lathe.
 
I put an automation direct GS2 3hp on my mill and lathe last year super easy setup and controls you can remotely locate the HMI on your lathe or mill. I set up the brake function on my lathe for a thread stop using a precision micro switch giving me .0002 repeatability after playing around with the deceleration times. Itmakes threading to a shoulder a dream I went from threading at 30 RPM to 300 no need for a relief cut

https://www.automationdirect.com/ad...ts_(115_-z-_230_-z-_460_-z-_575_vac)/gs2-23p0

https://youtu.be/Ncc72aKgzVY
 
yes but OUT OF STOCK.
I DID LOOK AT IT
no one answered when i called...
2 strikes and you are out in this case
i did a search no one else had it

killswitch505 said:
I put an automation direct GS2 3hp on my mill and lathe last year super easy setup and controls you can remotely locate the HMI on your lathe or mill. I set up the brake function on my lathe for a thread stop using a precision micro switch giving me .0002 repeatability after playing around with the deceleration times. Itmakes threading to a shoulder a dream I went from threading at 30 RPM to 300 no need for a relief cut

https://www.automationdirect.com/ad...ts_(115_-z-_230_-z-_460_-z-_575_vac)/gs2-23p0

https://youtu.be/Ncc72aKgzVY
Click to expand...
 
Retired,
I don't have a foot brake ok my lathe either which is why the bra king resistor is so nice. When I kill the power to the forward or reverse lever the chuck stops very quickly and doesn't put too much pressure on the circuitry of the drive. I don't have a thread dial for my machine yet so I have to kill the power and quickly get the cross slide dial backed out or I will hit the shoulder. The faster that chuck stops the less chance I have of hitting the shoulder...that micro switch idea might just have to be on my Christmas list. I really need to just build the darn thread dial!
 
Have you tried,

turning your tool upside down and threading backward? I do this and have since I started, even with the Heavy 10. Never had the chuck loosen. The Europeans and Ausies I have watched on Youtube don't use threading dial. It's nice to be able to stop quickly though. Joe Pie has a good Youtube on threading the way I have just described.

Happy Holidays,

Pete
 
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well gentlemen,
i am back.
i have it all wired and the vfd will NOT change to 60 hz...stuck on 50.
i go to the setup step for hz, it starts in default at 50, but no action by me will get it to
change to 60. not happy.

rep says i cannot "START VFD, THEN START LATHE"
they say, start lathe then vfd.....will this work ?

i do not want to rewire my ENTIRE lathe, i just want 3p.

please some one tell me how to start my lathe with a vfd WITHOUT rewiring my lathe
 
Last edited by a moderator:
The hardest thing is instant stopping a 3-phase motor.

The currents and voltages spike up very badly and can instantly destroy the driver devices in the VFD unit.
 
Vfd

retired said:
well gentlemen,
i am back.
i have it all wired and the vfd will NOT change to 60 hz...stuck on 50.
i go to the setup step for hz, it starts in default at 50, but no action by me will get it to
change to 60. not happy.

rep says i cannot "START VFD, THEN START LATHE"
they say, start lathe then vfd.....will this work ?

i do not want to rewire my ENTIRE lathe, i just want 3p.

please some one tell me how to start my lathe with a vfd WITHOUT rewiring my lathe
Click to expand...

I know you may not want to here this, but I think you may have purchased the wrong device and maybe a rotary phase converter was a better option. https://www.wolfautomation.com/blog/phase-converters-vs-vfds/

You can just connect the output terminals of the VFD direct to the motor and use the keypad on the VFD. Not something I could live with, but that is the only way if you don't want to wire anything else other than input to VFD and output to motor.

Why they have said "cannot" is the issue you have is when you connect the VFD as just a 3 phase source it does not like its output (Load) opened/removed (ie via a contactor switching - like Star/Delta for instance). If you do this you will likely destroy the VFD.

The output connection of the VFD should go direct to the motor (Motor configured as Delta), then you will wire the FWD, REV, etc as inputs to the VFD. When you request FWD the VFD will drive motor forward and ramp up to predetermined speed. Then you can adjust via a external resistor. (See attached Hitachi wiring example) or the keypad

If you want the installation to be safe and have some or maybe all (you need to add an additional relay for all) of the safety shutdown features you need to basically rewire your machine.

Do you have an electrical drawing of the lathe (in the manual?) and the electrical drawing example of the VFD?

I can take a look at drawings if you wish.

Michael
 

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your answer supports what i have heard so far, BUT NEVER BEFORE I BOUGHT THE VFD.
it appears i will return the vfd as it CANNOT act a simple source of 3 p 220v.
like i said i just want to walk up to my lathe and turn it on, if i have to start the vfd before or after i can live with that.

i have found a rotary phase converter, physically smaller than my last one, cheaper than my last one, same HP rating
and made in the USA.

FOR THE RECORD i received another email from the factory rep, telling me to go change the 50 hz settings at three other places, but no input how to correct the motor "setting" from 50 to 60.

thanks for the offer, but as i stated i do not want to rewire my lathe.
i just want a 220v 3p supply. it seem a vfd CANNOT DO THAT.
 
You obviously have something not wired right with your VFD set up. Something is wrong. Mine is wired up using 220 1P and out is going 220v 3PH running successfully. I power up the VFD and pull my apron switch lever and on comes the spindle. Reverse the lever, spindle goes in reverse. Got a pot dial for frequency change in which varies my RPM. Remember, the output on VFD goes direct to motor, nothing else. All switches , dials or whatever get wired into VFD side. Find someone familiar with a VFD in your area to look at it.
 
this is at least part of the issue.
as i said i do not want to rewire my lathe.
it has an input box on the back with a disconnect switch
that powers everything , not just the motor.
a solid state phase converter or rotary are in my future.

DSM said:
You obviously have something not wired right with your VFD set up. Something is wrong. Mine is wired up using 220 1P and out is going 220v 3PH running successfully. I power up the VFD and pull my apron switch lever and on comes the spindle. Reverse the lever, spindle goes in reverse. Got a pot dial for frequency change in which varies my RPM. Remember, the output on VFD goes direct to motor, nothing else. All switches , dials or whatever get wired into VFD side. Find someone familiar with a VFD in your area to look at it.
Click to expand...
 
Like I said...you have it wired wrong and won't work properly. So saying a VFD is not a reliable piece of hardware to control 3 phase motors is TOTALLY wrong. Many many people use them and IMO fantastic for controlling small machines. Rewiring is not that difficult...just a little thinking. I'm wire illiterate and I did it. Totally gutted the my grizzly electrical box and did away with all the dated it electrical start switches, transformer and whatever else was inside.

By all means, static is great and has their place in a shop. Especially to run many machines.
 
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