Problem with Wilson seating die

S

Stevo

Guest
I have been using Wilson dies for over 25 years with my 300 Win Mag. Now trying to get a 220 Swift up and running using Wilson dies and trying to copy what I have done with the 300 26 years ago. Worked well for me.

I am having issues with the cases sticking in the bullet seating die. I looked and it is clean and shinny inside. Have tried a very light coat of oil and still sticking. I am having to use a screw driver to pry out the case. I am only reloading cases that have been fired in my rifle. I believe I see the bottom quarter of the case has some marks on it from this die.

With my 300 die I would pull the bullet seater out a little and hit it with my hand and the case would pop out. I NEVER had this issue with my 300 Win Mag, however the man who built the rifle reamed the chamber on my rifle and the reloading die.

Do most of you that are using the Wilson dies use a small hammer or a arbor press? I have always used a hammer, but recently tried the press. What is your reasons for your technique?

What do you do?

Thanks,
Steve
 
Steve, can you tell where it's sticking? I've seen bullets stick on the seater punch and polishing the tip of the seater punch will take care of that if that's where it's sticking. Or it could be that the reamer cut oversize in the chamber and didn't cut oversize in the seater die body. Running the reamer in a little deeper in the seater die should open up the seater if that's the case. The seater doesn't have to be set to zero headspace. .010" deeper than go won't hurt a thing on the seater. A reamer that is following a bore that isn't particularly straight can result in a slightly oversize chamber. The goal when chambering a barrel is for the chamber to be as close to reamer dimensions as possible and in line with the bore. I found that how you drive the reamer will have an effect upon how close the chamber is to reamer specs. I chambered two barrels. One using a dead center to push the reamer and the other floating the reamer. Both barrels were 6 PPC. You couldn't tell any discernable movement in the reamer when it was bottomed out in the chamber. The chamber that was floated had a smaller diameter chamber than the chamber pushed with the dead center. Fired brass from the floated chamber would fit in the other chamber, but not vice versa.
 
I have maybe haldf a dozen barrels set up for .308 W. Some stick in the die & some don't. I figure that Wilson makes a minimum die & some chamberings aren't.

Screwdrivers mark the rim. Try prying them out with a small spoon.
 
It may be the bullet as Mike suggested but likely it's the base of your case being a bit larger than the die. You can either live with it or fix it. I'd have to live with it until I got a new barrel. Thing is, you have to be careful not to allow the "jamming" deal to interfere with bullet seating. Said differently, make sure the seater makes contact with the stop...whatever you're using for a stop.
 
Was the seater die made for the .220 Swift made with the same reamer as what was used to chamber your barrel? Or was that just with your .300 Win Mag? You just have to determine where it's sticking. Three places that it can stick, on the body, the neck or on the bullet tip. As hard as you are having coming out, it's probably on the body. I use an arbor press for bullet seating. Most people never did use a hammer for seating. If they used a hammer it was for knocking the case into a Wilson bushing die. Even when I was using Wilson hand bushing neck dies, it was more convenient to use a base and an arbor press. Better feel with the arbor press for seating. Never really did understand why you would use a hammer for knocking cases into a neck die.
 
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Mike Bryant said:
Steve, can you tell where it's sticking? I've seen bullets stick on the seater punch and polishing the tip of the seater punch will take care of that if that's where it's sticking. Or it could be that the reamer cut oversize in the chamber and didn't cut oversize in the seater die body. Running the reamer in a little deeper in the seater die should open up the seater if that's the case. The seater doesn't have to be set to zero headspace. .010" deeper than go won't hurt a thing on the seater. A reamer that is following a bore that isn't particularly straight can result in a slightly oversize chamber. The goal when chambering a barrel is for the chamber to be as close to reamer dimensions as possible and in line with the bore. I found that how you drive the reamer will have an effect upon how close the chamber is to reamer specs. I chambered two barrels. One using a dead center to push the reamer and the other floating the reamer. Both barrels were 6 PPC. You couldn't tell any discernable movement in the reamer when it was bottomed out in the chamber. The chamber that was floated had a smaller diameter chamber than the chamber pushed with the dead center. Fired brass from the floated chamber would fit in the other chamber, but not vice versa.
Click to expand...

Mike,

Thanks for the response.

I left the bullet seater out and it still stuck. It looks like it sticks toward the bottom of the case. Maybe a 1/4" from the rim.

Unfortunately I have lost touch with the gunsmith that built my 300. He only built the 300 and the 220 is factory except for the trigger I replaced.

Interesting outcome with the different reaming procedure. I saw that you are a gunsmith. I might call you for a quote for bedding.

I appreciate your professional help.

Thanks Mike,
Steve
 
John Kielly said:
I have maybe haldf a dozen barrels set up for .308 W. Some stick in the die & some don't. I figure that Wilson makes a minimum die & some chamberings aren't.

Screwdrivers mark the rim. Try prying them out with a small spoon.
Click to expand...

John,

Great idea! I have some old spoons I use scooping powder and measuring liquid polishing compound to the tumbling media. I'll give that a try.
Thanks for the data points. At least I know it's nothing I'm doing or a problem with the equipment. Just something I will have to deal with...

Thanks,
Steve
 
Wilbur said:
It may be the bullet as Mike suggested but likely it's the base of your case being a bit larger than the die. You can either live with it or fix it. I'd have to live with it until I got a new barrel. Thing is, you have to be careful not to allow the "jamming" deal to interfere with bullet seating. Said differently, make sure the seater makes contact with the stop...whatever you're using for a stop.
Click to expand...

Thanks Wilbur,

I was thinking of finding a SIMPLE way to raise the seating die and make up for the distance by adjusting the bullet seater so I could be consistent.

Have not really gotten that far... I did ruin a case the first time I pried one out.... Found a screwdriver that fit better, now will try the spoon technique....

Steve
 
Mike Bryant said:
Was the seater die made for the .220 Swift made with the same reamer as what was used to chamber your barrel? Or was that just with your .300 Win Mag? You just have to determine where it's sticking. Three places that it can stick, on the body, the neck or on the bullet tip. As hard as you are having coming out, it's probably on the body. I use an arbor press for bullet seating. Most people never did use a hammer for seating. If they used a hammer it was for knocking the case into a Wilson bushing die. Even when I was using Wilson hand bushing neck dies, it was more convenient to use a base and an arbor press. Better feel with the arbor press for seating. Never really did understand why you would use a hammer for knocking cases into a neck die.
Click to expand...

Mike,

Never had anyone show me how to use the Wilson dies. Had been reloading for 15 years before that with many different types of presses but not for bench rest shooting. When I had this rifle made the gunsmith told me I should use the Wilson dies and ordered everything I needed, he told me to use the hammer. I had a small brass hammer with different tips. I used to sit on my bench in my backyard and reload the same case as the bbl was cooling. I am much faster with the hammer when hoping out the primer and neck resizing using the hammer. Pop it in the die smack it in and out, done.

Seating the bullet I have been using the arbor press now as I know it is very consistent and I can "feel" it better.

Yes you are right that it is sticking on the body of the case.

Thanks,
Steve
 
Stevo

see the instructions that came with the die. Wilson will open it up to fit your fired cases if you send it and cases to them. Basically they will try to match the die body to your chamber. $10 I think?
 
glp said:
see the instructions that came with the die. Wilson will open it up to fit your fired cases if you send it and cases to them. Basically they will try to match the die body to your chamber. $10 I think?
Click to expand...

Thanks GLP! OK I guess I should read the instructions.......

If I keep the rifle $10 is well worth not having to pry each case out.

Steve
 
Send three fired cases, along with the die back to Wilson. Doesn't cost anything, but shipping. I had a 22BR that was sticking at the bottom, on both the neck die, and seater.
 
Gabe22BR said:
Send three fired cases, along with the die back to Wilson. Doesn't cost anything, but shipping. I had a 22BR that was sticking at the bottom, on both the neck die, and seater.
Click to expand...

Excellent!

Thanks Gabe
 
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