This I can totally get with.
And many setups I've seen and spoken with folks about they absolutely ARE bending barrels.... I'm simply stating baldly that I'm not. I've redone my methodology 10 times, I'm a ways away from "copying Gordie's method" but I give full credit to him both for coming up with a real way to indicate deep, and for thinking of the usage he's put it to.
It has been and will always be "Gordie's Method" to me.
My results have been startling... enough so that right now if I couldn't do my own work I'd feel seriously handicapped. And I have some seriously good stuff against which to compare.
It's really quite amazing how easy is for a barrel to actually bend. A dial indicator, a well suppored breach end of a blank, a little finger pressure applied on the opposite end and watch the indicator showing you just how easy it to bend.
And folks assuming that because a highly accurate 6PPC setup will shoot really good with less than a hunnerd thou abutment on the barrel shank, a 300WSM should do the same.
me
Isn’t that about what a factory Remington 700 has?
Here is how I see it. I know I am not even close to being a machinist. I see it like a teeter-totter if one indicates at the pivot (the throat of the chamber) TDC then at the muzzle end TDC and knows that the very breech end has runout. They say first drill out then boring corrects the lineament of the chamber. But like a teeter-totter if there is runout on one end (throat to breech for a couple inches) then there has to be run out forward of the pivot (throat) for the same amount as the breech had. Now if you use the Gordy method, indicate throat TDC then at the very breech end TDC you straighten out (chamber throat) of the teeter-totter and then bore in front of the pivot point is also straighten out but the muzzle end now has the run out and for myself I have never seen it to be a problem on target or sighting the barrel in. I know I am stepping in a puddle.
Chet
I'd guess you're right.... I'll go over and measure one here when I get off the mill
. I have checked the runout of the Long Probe Mitutoyo against a .0001 Brown & Sharp indicator and always get a runout reading of .0005 or less which I call good.
That is what I have already done, I chucked up a Deltronic pin and then with long probe Mitutoyo zeroed it to where the dial (pointer) does not any longer move then check the Deltronic pin that I just zeroed with my .0001 Brown & Sharp indicator and the runout on the Brown and sharp is always .0005 or less so I just call that good enough. P.S Have used other .0001 to do the checking of the pin also. Something like the picture below.
Chet
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Is that your picture? That’s got the making of a meme! Can I steal it, if it’s yours?
Some so called gunsmiths only have one indicator. And think they indicated in GOOD gun work. Take my word not all indicators READ any where near true. I have tested many high dollar Top Brand name indicators and sent them back to the supplier for exchange. I Tested them because I want to do good GUNSMITH work.
With out GOOD ACCURATE indicators it is hard to do GOOD GUNSMITH WORK.
Chet.
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