Panda and Stiller Viper - how close?

V

VinceB

New member
I've been given a really nice benchrest stock which formerly housed a Stolle Panda (screw-in). I'm building a 600 yd Light Gun BR rig and I know where there is a Stiller Viper action going very cheap but how close is it to the Panda footprint? Don't mind milling out and re-bedding but the action screw-holes are nicely made with pillars - how close are the Stiller screw holes to the Panda's?
Thanks
Vince
 
Hi Vince,
As you know Stolle Panda Short is 8.5" long by 1.5" wide, with 3 screw holes, CTC between the front & rear screw hole is exactly 6.625".
According to their website, Viper has the same footprint but has 2 screw holes only due to their drop port. I can't find the CTC between the screw holes anyway. Also if the tang area (the taper) is the same with Panda? But it must be very close.
With your skill, I don't think you will have any problem with the stock & the action.
Good luck my friend,
seb.
 
seblambang said:
Hi Vince,
As you know Stolle Panda Short is 8.5" long by 1.5" wide, with 3 screw holes, CTC between the front & rear screw hole is exactly 6.625".
According to their website, Viper has the same footprint but has 2 screw holes only due to their drop port. I can't find the CTC between the screw holes anyway. Also if the tang area (the taper) is the same with Panda? But it must be very close.
With your skill, I don't think you will have any problem with the stock & the action.
Good luck my friend,
seb.
Click to expand...

Thanks Seb - yes, it must be close but the Viper (not drop port) is a glue-in and I might have to destroy the stock to get it out - which makes it less of an attractive proposition.
Cheers
Vince
 
Hi again Vince,
I am sorry for my ignorance....you mean that the Viper (non drop port) has no screw holes? Because if so & you don't want to glue it in, then you can drill/make new screw holes on the Viper using the Panda's CTC (as you said the stock has a nicely made pillars for a Panda) & then skim bed it....then it would/should be more easier for you in turn?
And if you choose to glue it in, why you might have to destroy the stock to get it out? What is the stock made from, btw?
Just my thought, please educate me!
Cheers,
seb.
 
seblambang said:
Hi again Vince,
I am sorry for my ignorance....you mean that the Viper (non drop port) has no screw holes? Because if so & you don't want to glue it in, then you can drill/make new screw holes on the Viper using the Panda's CTC (as you said the stock has a nicely made pillars for a Panda) & then skim bed it....then it would/should be more easier for you in turn?
And if you choose to glue it in, why you might have to destroy the stock to get it out? What is the stock made from, btw?
Just my thought, please educate me!
Cheers,
seb.
Click to expand...

Seb - the Viper seems to be glued into the stock with Devcon. I don't know if it has screw-holes - I'm assuming it has. It might come out of the stock but I may end up destroying it. I'd just like to know, before I start, if the Viper will line up with the pillars in the new stock. If I have to somehow install a new pillar for the front screw - in a slightly different location to the existing one - it will make it difficult to get it to look right on the underside of the stock. I've e-mailed two pics to your address.
Vince
 
Vince,
Thanks you for the photos.
I agree, that's a nice stock.
I'm assuming (correct me if I'm wrong?) that you have a Viper action glued-in on another stock.
Someone here must be able to tell you about the CTC between the front & rear screw hole of the Stiller's Viper. I'm just familiar with the Panda Short only and know nothing about Viper.

In case you have to make a new front pillar, and in case the ctc is different by not much, I think you still can make it to 'look right' with a larger recess head on the underside of the stock.
In case the Viper doesn't have thread holes, I think it's a/your luck! You can make a new ones that suit the stock/pillars without much problem. (without sacrificing the rigidity of the action, etc). Also if I 'were' you, I'd make blind threads rather than through hole threads, both on the front & the tang area as the 'meat' on the underside of the action must be thick enough for the purpose.

I'm eager to see the finished rifle!
Again good luck!

Cheers,
seb.
 
seblambang said:
Vince,
Thanks you for the photos.
I agree, that's a nice stock.
I'm assuming (correct me if I'm wrong?) that you have a Viper action glued-in on another stock.
Someone here must be able to tell you about the CTC between the front & rear screw hole of the Stiller's Viper. I'm just familiar with the Panda Short only and know nothing about Viper.
Click to expand...

That's about it Seb - the Viper isn't mine but the price is right - especially if the screw-holes line up - I was hoping someone would know. I will get the Viper at weekend and take a chance!
Cheers
Vince
 
I have a Viper that I glued into a TMBR stock that was inletted for a Panda - perfect fit, same footprint. As for the screw holes, I'd say give Jerry Stiller a call or email. He could tell you since he designed the Viper.

Stiller's Precision Firearms

Jerry
 
Vince,

No matter what the action is glued in with, a simple clothing iron will get it out of the stock without damaging the action or the stock. Put a small wedge under the barrel at the front of the stock and set an iron set on high on the scope bases. Clamp the barrel in a barrel vise so the stock is suspended over the floor. In about 10-20 minutes, the epoxy will let go and the stock will fall off. Don't rush it, it will happen, and it will be clean. BTW, put something on the floor to break the fall of the stock
 
David is right on the money. I've done the same thing several times with absolutely no damage to any of the stocks. I don't use the wedge, just a little thumb pressure to pop the stock off. Don't be impatient, give the heat time to soften that epoxy.

Jerry
 
David Halblom said:
Vince,

No matter what the action is glued in with, a simple clothing iron will get it out of the stock without damaging the action or the stock. Put a small wedge under the barrel at the front of the stock and set an iron set on high on the scope bases. Clamp the barrel in a barrel vise so the stock is suspended over the floor. In about 10-20 minutes, the epoxy will let go and the stock will fall off. Don't rush it, it will happen, and it will be clean. BTW, put something on the floor to break the fall of the stock
Click to expand...

Thanks guys - I've used an iron before to release Araldite epoxy but I didn't know if it would work with Devcon or JB Weld. Also, Jerry Stiller warns about using too much heat with the Viper's glue-in tenon insert. The stock is rubbish anyway so if it doesn't come out, I don't mind destroying it. Be nice to know the screw-hole spacing but I'll e-mail Jerry.
Cheers
Vince
 
Jerry W said:
I have a Viper that I glued into a TMBR stock that was inletted for a Panda - perfect fit, same footprint. As for the screw holes, I'd say give Jerry Stiller a call or email. He could tell you since he designed the Viper.

Stiller's Precision Firearms

Jerry
Click to expand...

The Stiller guys came back straight away - the holes are the same as the Panda! Should be an easy swap.

Vince
 
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