Need Help With a Tuner

Well, that muddies my water. As the DA has dropped, I have been turning out. It was easy to remember, down and out. Strange though, because that has been working for me, Gene. This spring, I'll mess with the tuner and try the reverse of what I've learned. I may have to pitch all my copious notes. I twist very nearly ever match or target in very small increments.


Francis, don't be discouraged, you must be doing things right if you're getting good, repeatable results. I think terminology is what's causing the confusion here. In your post above, you said, "As the DA (density altitude) has dropped, I have been turning out. It was easy to remember, down and out."

As the day warms up density altitude increases not drops as you said and as DA increases (air gets thinner), it is indeed necessary to go 'out' with the tuner to stay in tune. I know it's confusing and that's why I did not use the term DA in my post above to describe what happens to the weight of the atmosphere as the day warms up. You're doing everything right, you're just a little confused by the term, "density altitude."

Hope this eases your mind about what we are talking about. You're not going to have to throw out all your notes. :)

Later

Gene Beggs
 
Consider this. The vibrations travel in steel at around 19000 fps which is considerably faster than the bullet. For a .001 tuner change to affect the angular muzzle position at the moment of the bullet exit, the wavelength of such a vibration would be very short and as such is a very high frequency. This frequency is way above 20000 hz. The wavelength of 2.4mhz I believe, is around .001. Since there are 6 points in a single complete waveform that one might tune at, the actual critical frequency might be about 1.2 mhz. Most of the frequencies normally referred to regarding barrel vibrations are too low and slow to set up before the bullet is long gone. They only start to move, hence just putting weight on the end reduces their effect. To detect and analyse this would require extremely sensitive and expensive equipment and expertise. Only somebody such as DARPA would fund such research if they were interested. As to what may be the excitation for such a high frequency, I would guess it is the priming compound explosion, since it is by far, the fastest thing moving in a firearm.
 
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Ahhhh, Gene :)

The theme from "mission impossible" No, I know your hard work will pay off.
It's not impossible, just difficult. Your thinking along the harmonics is a big step in the right direction.
Boyd is right on the money however, but with more testing you will be amazed with what you will find.

Richard
 
Consider this. The vibrations travel in steel at around 19000 fps which is considerably faster than the bullet. For a .001 tuner change to affect the angular muzzle position at the moment of the bullet exit, the wavelength of such a vibration would be very short and as such is a very high frequency. This frequency is way above 20000 hz. The wavelength of 2.4mhz I believe, is around .001. Since there are 6 points in a single complete waveform that one might tune at, the actual critical frequency might be about 1.2 mhz. Most of the frequencies normally referred to regarding barrel vibrations are too low and slow to set up before the bullet is long gone. They only start to move, hence just putting weight on the end reduces their effect. To detect and analyse this would require extremely sensitive and expensive equipment and expertise. Only somebody such as DARPA would fund such research if they were interested. As to what may be the excitation for such a high frequency, I would guess it is the priming compound explosion, since it is by far, the fastest thing moving in a firearm.

Jerry, I think this makes sense.

Gene, I've found that moving my tuner inward as temps rise is what works for me. As you know, I'm being very methodical with my testing of tuner movement and its effect...so I don't think I'm missing or turning past a node.

Admittedly, I can't get my head around your statement that the frequency got higher as you moved the tuner out. Perhaps I'm missing something, and must be, for this to factually be the case. There is still plenty of room to learn, above and beyond what electronic vibration analysis testing I have had done. I hope to be able to further that testing at some point. That said, what you claim in this regard is not what I've seen. Please keep in mind that I'm not saying that it is incorrect, but just that it is counter to what I've been able to conclude..so far, and seems to be counter to what little I do know about this subject. I don't know what else to say in this regard, at this point. Perhaps we are focusing too much on external factors when it may be that internal ballistics are what really drive this subject.
Either way, IME, what Boyd said seems to be the case...We are timing bullet exit with muzzle position. I don't agree with him that turning the tuner in either direction can only improve tune unless the gun is in a state of being "completely" out of tune. In use, this is virtually never the case unless just starting out with a tuner for the first time. IME, typical "practical" tuner movement is about half of it's total effect on tune. I've never seen tune affected by conditions by as much as a tuner is capable of affecting the tune. IOW, I've never seen the gun out of tune enough to use the full range of tuner movement needed to take it from completely in tune to completely out of tune, in a match or otherwise...only during initial tuner setting.
Regardless, while we'd like to understand the why's and what for's better, it remains very true that tuner usage is far and away simpler than understanding how they do what they do. One only needs a tuner and a good rifle..along with about 15 minutes of good conditions to prove that much.

Carry on, please. I'm certainly enjoying reading this and your findings. I'm most certainly keeping an open mind to what you say. Hopefully, we'll get to the bottom of this...or our grand kids will.--Mike
 
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Good point!

very interesting to see if this holds true for all tuners. Behind or in front of the crown.
I wonder if we are just scratching the surface of how a tuner really works. I applaud your efforts Gene.

Richard Brensing


Good question Richard. I considered that and was hoping someone would bring it up. I'll do my best to prove it one way or the other but at this time, I would have to say I don't believe it makes any difference whether the tuner is beyond or behind the muzzle. We will see.

I have purchased one of Mike Ezell's PDT tuners to experiment with. It is a beyond the muzzle type while mine is a behind the muzzle design. As you saw in Phoenix, I have made three improvements to my own design and am very happy with the results.

Later

Gene Beggs
 
Exactly right

Gene,Your friend (who wishes he had a tunnel)
Boyd
Added later: If I understand what I have read, from you and others, accuracy nodes repeat as a tuner is gradually adjusted in one direction. What this means is that if you are out of tune, you can go either way to get in tune, but perhaps not by the same amount. I think that this is all about catching the muzzle in its optimal position as the bullet exits. We can get to the same position in the cycle by either advancing or backing up.

Boyd is right on this. You can tune from either side of the optimal setting of the tuner. But you need to know which side your on to make adjustments with confidence.

Richard Brensing
 
Boyd is right on this. You can tune from either side of the optimal setting of the tuner. But you need to know which side your on to make adjustments with confidence.

Richard Brensing

Richard, could you please clarify. It's my experience that if the gun is in tune, moving it either direction takes it further from being in tune. Conversely, if it's just slightly out of tune, moving one way makes it better and moving the other way makes it worse. I do agree that if the tuner setting is at it's "full out of tune" setting, it'll improve by going either direction.

A very important key to learning how to use a tuner is by shooting it to see what completely in tune and completely out of tune looks like on target, and correlating tuner travel to group size and shape. In use, it's been my experience that this is the only time that you're likely to see a completely out of tune condition, relative to the tuner, as I've never experienced a condition related change in tune alter group size by as much as the tuner can. I do suppose it's possible, particularly with a very light tuner. Generally speaking, with my tuner it is typical for br contour barrels, that about 4 marks on the tuner will take the gun from fully in tune to fully out of tune, but I've never needed to move more than 2 marks for a condition change. As a rule of thumb, as the temps go up, I move the tuner in to bring the gun back into tune.

Everyone wants to know when, how far, and which direction to move the tuner. I tested this for a couple of seasons and the best I could muster was about 70% accuracy as to moving the tuner strictly based on temps. Frankly, I gave up on the notion as it didn't matter, as long as sighters were a part of the match. I simply move the tuner as needed according to the sighter target. This is a much simpler and far less subjective method of setting the tuner.

I fear that if one person starts making the claim that a tuner should be moved x amount for x temp, that it will create more confusion. I don't feel that there is a way to generalize this into an end all, be all method with as many variables as are at play..barrel length and contour, or as I like to refer to it as..barrel stiffness, being only one of those variables...tuner design being another.
 
I will clarify my statement

after reading my previous post I see where I "muddied the waters" so to speak.

OK, here we go. You are correct in saying that a rifle in a perfect state of tune will only get worse by turning the tuner either way. The point I was attempting to make is this. If the rifle is not in a perfect state of tune, a person needs to know which way to turn it to get it to that point.

A rifle that is in a perfect state of tune does not react the same way by turning it in or out by the same amount. Being able to recognize the difference keeps you from wasting time on the sighter.

Richard Brensing
 
after reading my previous post I see where I "muddied the waters" so to speak.

OK, here we go. You are correct in saying that a rifle in a perfect state of tune will only get worse by turning the tuner either way. The point I was attempting to make is this. If the rifle is not in a perfect state of tune, a person needs to know which way to turn it to get it to that point.

A rifle that is in a perfect state of tune does not react the same way by turning it in or out by the same amount. Being able to recognize the difference keeps you from wasting time on the sighter.

Richard Brensing

Agreed, but I don't think it's wasted time. Do you feel confident in making a tuner adjustment and going straight to the record? I don't
 
Yes I do

It doesn't bother me in the least to turn the tuner and go straight to the record.
Usually if the targets are posted before the next group I will look at that and turn the tuner according to what I see on that target. That's what I did all last year and the Cactus this year.

Richard Brensing
 
It doesn't bother me in the least to turn the tuner and go straight to the record.
Usually if the targets are posted before the next group I will look at that and turn the tuner according to what I see on that target. That's what I did all last year and the Cactus this year.

Richard Brensing

I've done it too. As I said earlier, I was able to do that with about 70% confidence. That's not high enough for me to trust on a score target..maybe group, although I don't know that I would, if the only cost to check the tune was a few seconds on the sighter. POI changes to some degree with adjustment with every tuner I've ever seen. I can't do that in score shooting.
 
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If I could not be sure

basically 100 percent I wouldn't do it either. You say 70 percent, what is the other 30 doing to you?
I really am curious about this. I don't shoot score much so maybe what you are doing requires a different strategy than I use. I don't know. I can just relate what has worked very well for me.

The other thing I just noticed by rereading your post on the 70 percent thing, you said your were going by temp. I don't use anything but the target to tell me what to do. I do know Rod Brown and Gene Beggs have been very sucessful doing the charting of various things such as temp,DA and more. I just couldn't keep up with that. (Rod's a smarter guy than me)

Richard Brensing
 
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basically 100 percent I wouldn't do it either. You say 70 percent, what is the other 30 doing to you?
I really am curious about this. I don't shoot score much so maybe what you are doing requires a different strategy than I use. I don't know. I can just relate what has worked very well for me.

The other thing I just noticed by rereading your post on the 70 percent thing, you said your were going by temp. I don't use anything but the target to tell me what to do. I do know Rod Brown and Gene Beggs have been very sucessful doing the charting of various things such as temp,DA and more. I just couldn't keep up with that. (Rod's a smarter guy than me)

Richard Brensing

He's probably smarter than me too, Richard!
What would happen is that about 30% of the time, I'd go the wrong way with the tuner, based on temps. The goal was to be able to set the tuner for the gun to be perfectly tuned for any given temp, without firing a shot. Because of the wider tune window that I've found tuners to afford, it was doable most of the time..but not all. I too, have gone to strictly using the target to tell me what to do with the tuner. Most of the time it works, but I still can go the wrong way on occasion. I suspect for the same reasons as before, but I still don't know what they are or maybe I could have done it by temps 100% correctly. That said, it's not often that I even need to move the tuner, and far less often that I go the wrong way. For those times, the sighter target is my gauge, which does seem to work all of the time. In tough conditions is the only time this gets hairy. It's very typical for me to tune during the warm-up and not touch the tuner again that day. The conditions during the warm-up are usually most conducive to tuning, anyway.

In group, it doesn't matter where the group forms..for the most part. Of course, in score, it does.

Oh, and what I should've said, is would you move the tuner during a group. If I had said that, we'd be talking apples to apples. If you can do that, I am most impressed!
 
If I see the

group forming in a way that I know is tune related I will change the tuner in a middle of the group. I don't have to do that very often, but it's not that big of a deal when I do it. I just haven't seen the POI issues you have alluded to. Not to say they don't exist, but I haven't seen that problem at all.

Richard Brensing
 
Great Discussion!

Guys, the discussion lately has touched on some very good points. With the exchange between Mike Ezell and Richard Brensing, just about everything known to man about tuners and how to use them has been discussed by these two gentlemen. There is a lot of experience and expertise speaking there. :) It remains to be seen and proven why one expert keeps his rifle in tune by going 'in' as the day warms up and the other does exactly the opposite. :confused: :p But I'm sure there is a perfectly logical and repeatable reason why that is the case. :rolleyes:

I personally have studied and experimented with centerfire tuners since Bill Calfee got my attention with his earliest writings in the pages of Precision Shooting. Although we eventually diverged with our efforts and opinions on certain things, I always remained convinced that tuners would someday prove to be the next big thing in extreme rifle accuracy. And that is exactly what is happening.

There was a long period of seemingly no progress in centerfire tuners but what has come to light in recent times proves that there were some that were doggedly pursuing the answers. What I've learned as a result of this thread and what I've experienced in the tunnel and also at the Berger Cactus match in Phoenix has me more excited than I've been in years. I think we can look forward to some exciting things happening in the near future.

Later,

Gene Beggs
 
I prefer tuners that screw on, but what's the best adhesive to use with a clamp-on muzzle device to a CF barrel turned straight? Preferably something that will hold, but is also easy to remove from the tuner and barrel.

I know a lot of RF shooters simply clamp the tuner without adhesive, but I don't feel too comfortable merely clamping onto a CF barrel. I feel that it would have to be torqued to the point to where it could be detrimental to the barrel and/or accuracy.

A friend who is a winning RF shooter recently removed a tuner to clean it. When he put it back on, the rifle would not group until the clamping section was torqued the same amount as before. Common sense - but worth noting.
 
I prefer tuners that screw on, but what's the best adhesive to use with a clamp-on muzzle device to a CF barrel turned straight? Preferably something that will hold, but is also easy to remove from the tuner and barrel.

I know a lot of RF shooters simply clamp the tuner without adhesive, but I don't feel too comfortable merely clamping onto a CF barrel. I feel that it would have to be torqued to the point to where it could be detrimental to the barrel and/or accuracy.

A friend who is a winning RF shooter recently removed a tuner to clean it. When he put it back on, the rifle would not group until the clamping section was torqued the same amount as before. Common sense - but worth noting.

I don't recommend clamping a tuner on a centerfire and wouldn't trust an adhesive. Just my two cents worth.
 
Mike I agree. I don't think clamping is the best way to go either.

Also, with some clamp-on types, there's a cut just past the clamped section that extends through half the diameter which leaves the weighted portion less supported. Whether this has any effect on how the tuner behaves I cannot say.

If I were to convert a tuner of this design so that it could be threaded, I would probably weld or epoxy the slit section closed. Obviously, a CF barrel has a lot more motion going on than a RF. But again, it may not even matter.......
 
Well, saw Rodney Brown's

article in Precision Rifleman. Very interesting stuff and I know a lot of time had to be devoted to come up with all of the information.
That being said, it's just hard to wrap my mind around all of that. I will test it for sure and see if it's better than just reading the groups and adjusting the tuner from that.
I just want the simplest method possible.

Richard Brensing
 
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