Neck turning tool

nueces5

New member
First of all I apologize if this is not the subforum for the question, I did not find one related to reload.
I bought a neck turning tool, sinclair nt 1000.
I would like to know what thickness you leave at the neck, I think I just left it very thin ... 0.0075 inch
 
I turn...

First of all I apologize if this is not the subforum for the question, I did not find one related to reload.
I bought a neck turning tool, sinclair nt 1000.
I would like to know what thickness you leave at the neck, I think I just left it very thin ... 0.0075 inch

I turn mine to .0085. Thin, but not too thin. I've reloaded the brass many times since I'm a bench rest shooter and have had no trouble with with cracked or separated necks; yet this thin neck results in easy bullet seating with enough tension.
 
It dependes upon several other dimensions

1) What is the neck diameter of your gun?

Assuming this is a 6 PPC, neck diameters generally run between 0.262" and 0.269".

2) What is the diameter of your bullet?

Assuming a 6mm bullet, this will nominally be 0.243". If your using a flat base bullet, you should consider the pressure ring at the base of the bullet. Many bullet makers, like BIB, publish the pressure ring diameter of their bullets. To be safe, I typically use 0.2434" as the bullet diameter in my calculations.

3) How much clearance between the neck diameter of a loaded round and the chamber neck do you want?

0.002" is a good average clearance number to shoot for. Some folks run as tight as 0.0015" and some a little looser but I personally would want to stay tighter than 0.003".

So here's how the math flows. Let's assume your rifle chamber has a 0.262" neck. If you want 0.002" of clearance, then the neck diameter of a loaded round should be 0.260". If your bullet has a diameter of 0.2434", then the thickness of the neck, by difference, needs to be 0.0166". However, keep in mind this number is 2X the actual neck wall thickness. So dividing by 2 yields a desired neck thickness of 0.0083".

So, depending upon all your other equipment specs, 0.0075" may be fine. However, I'm guessing that's thinner then need be. Hope this helps. Good luck!
 
Depends upon the brand of brass and of course your intended use, but I'd suggest using a spark plug gap tool [the bladed kind] and set to .014 and turn until say 90% of the neck is cleaned up. Probably practice on some junk brass first.
 
Forum Search

Thanks for the quick answers, I think I'll take some steps and ask again



Just a suggestion, If you haven’t done so already. On the opening page of this forum, in the upper right hand corner there is a small window labeled ,"Advanced Search”

Type in a related topic, Example, “Neck Wall Thickness”, hit the little magnifying glass symbol.

You will likely find enough discussions/information to keep you busy for a while. You mention that you’re shooting a 1909 mauser in 7.65X54,(Argentine?) and a CZ 550 varmint in .308. Do a forum search for each rifle.

As you know,you may also try other forums related to your search.

Hope this helps.

Glenn
 
Just a suggestion, If you haven’t done so already. On the opening page of this forum, in the upper right hand corner there is a small window labeled ,"Advanced Search”

Type in a related topic, Example, “Neck Wall Thickness”, hit the little magnifying glass symbol.

You will likely find enough discussions/information to keep you busy for a while. You mention that you’re shooting a 1909 mauser in 7.65X54,(Argentine?) and a CZ 550 varmint in .308. Do a forum search for each rifle.

As you know,you may also try other forums related to your search.

Hope this helps.

Glenn
I will do, thanks!!
 
or post more specific info on the rifle and brass in use.
even 8 is pretty thin for a production or mil surplus rifle
 
First of all I apologize if this is not the subforum for the question, I did not find one related to reload.
I bought a neck turning tool, sinclair nt 1000.
I would like to know what thickness you leave at the neck, I think I just left it very thin ... 0.0075 inch

May I suggest that when you're searching pay especial attention to WHY necks get turned and ask yourself "is neck turning appropriate for my application?" IMO you can make great use of neck turning but I _think_ possibly for different than the usual reasons. I think your use of neck turning will be to make better fitted brass by making custom-fitted necks via modifying other than stock cases to your rifle. For instance making your cases from 30-06 brass
 
First of all I apologize if this is not the subforum for the question, I did not find one related to reload.
I bought a neck turning tool, sinclair nt 1000.
I would like to know what thickness you leave at the neck, I think I just left it very thin ... 0.0075 inch

There are a couple of companies making neck thickness sorting tools using a dial indicator.
Use a 'tenths indicator' (1/10,000 in graduations) for these small measurements.
1/1,000 is not precise enough.

I switched from BR to live varmints a long time ago.
I use many of the same techniques.

I have tight neck chambers cut and then make neck walls 0.0100 in.
Before turning the necks to size (2 steps) I sort the brass by
neck thickness runout (variation around the neck).
I have measured case wall thicknesses and found a smaller neck
runout matches up with the rest of the case well being more uniform.

At 400+ yards even a groundhog is a small target.

It can be sort of anticlimactic to spend 20 or 30 minutes setting up,
and then taking one shot and waiting hours for the groundhogs to come back up.

Bring a lot of cold water.

Many of the critters have been shot over enough and dive as soon as they see a
human outline a couple hundred yards away.
So the shots have gotten even longer.

Panda action, Jewell br trigger, right bolt, left port, Leupold 50mm scope with a power doubler.

Gets it to about ~18X to 40x from a 6.5-20x50mm.
Doubler lens touches at the bottom end.

Very accurate in 6mm REM AI.
 
Take all your advice, take the measurements of external used cases, and internal neck diameter.
I prefer to start by letting the tool only remove a small layer of brass. So they have been at 0.001
I have reloaded them with the load that has given me the best result, and this Sunday we will see if we are lucky.
 
Yes, I have, and I have read some posts that talked about this. The language difference limits me, since I speak Spanish, and I have to use the online translator.
But with a little patience, I learn.
 
I had my mandrel/s come n my NT-1000s I got rid of the Allen setscrew that "locks" the mandrel in place and replaced it with a 2 inch screw with a Philips head so I could could tighten it better. I wanted torx, but wasn't really into ordering 25 of them. The local machine shop supply place had Philips.
 
Take all your advice, take the measurements of external used cases, and internal neck diameter.
I prefer to start by letting the tool only remove a small layer of brass. So they have been at 0.001
I have reloaded them with the load that has given me the best result, and this Sunday we will see if we are lucky.

A chamber casting in Cerrosafe is the way to determine neck diameter.

The variation in the metals shrinkage and expansion after pouring and setting are very well documented.

You can correct the measured values of the casting to get very precise measurements even long after the casting was made.
 
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