Making weight

J

j mckinnie

Guest
:cool:Using all the best lightest components is a 6lb. barrel in LV possible?Sorry the action will be a diamond fluted BAT DS.If the parrallel section on a HV contour is removed what weight would it come in at if total length was,
22"?
Thanks guys jim
 
Jim,

Depends on what make of barrel you want to use and what brand of stock...if you use something like a Krieger HV I don't think so but a Maddco might come close...If you already have a barrel then go to Rob Carnells website and use the barrel calculator to work out the dimensions you need to make your barrel weigh 6lbs...I don't think you will get a stock light enough with any 6lb barrel to make LV anyway.

Steve
 
Thanks

Steve.I knew there were sites with these things but didn't realise Rob had one.Thanks Rob also.
 
:cool:Using all the best lightest components is a 6lb. barrel in LV possible?

It's quite easy to accomplish. Use a Hunter or Varmint Hunter taper barrel. Then the barrel is tapered before it is bored and rifled. Voila! No outside stress. Also the weight is closer to the action. I'm not going to keep telling you all the secrets.

A 6 lb barrel is a 6 lb barrel Francis no matter what taper it is .
 
I'm not convinced

That all this balance stuff cant be overcome by bag and rest positioning on the stock?I'm gunna try the old style big barrel is best and see what happens the stock came in under 18oz. with bedding??:eek::D;)
 
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It usually works out something like this. The action weights 2 lbs, stock 2 lbs, scope 1 1/2 lbs, and barrel 5 lbs. All of the first three items can weight slightly less depending on with ones you use. Also a 1.2 dia barrel will be between 21" and 22" in length at the 5 to 5 1/2 lb weight. I have been told that a hunter taper barrel will work out very good, but I have not tried one. You really don't
have many balance problems with this combination of part weights anyway.
In HV the options are far greater as to part weights. I would like to forget LV HV
and settle on an in between gun that weighs 12 lbs. It would make life a lot easier.
 
A few years ago, Dick Wright was about to do another interview article with Tony Boyer. On this site, he asked for questions. Mine was would he give up barrel weight for rifle balance? It made the article. The answer was yes. IMHO rifle balance trumps barrel weight, and based on conversations that I have had with more than one good shooter, I think that there is no disadvantage going slightly under five pounds at, say 21.5". I like to have a rifle balanced so that it will shoot well only touching the trigger, for those occasions that give an advantage to heads up picking, and I think that shooting truly free (as opposed to free except for...) places the highest demands on rifle balance and bag characteristics. If you want a larger diameter barrel, you might consider 20". I understand that, in the past, some very good shooting rifles have been built that way.
 
I'd use somewhere around a 5 pound to 5 pound 4 ounce barrel and add enough weight to the butt to get the rifle up to 10.5 pounds or better an ounce under. A weight system in the butt is nice as it allows you to be able to adjust the weight of the rifle somewhat for variations in scales around the country. A rifle build with the weight distribution like this will ride the bags well and shoot with whatever method you want to use whether free recoil, pinning or combination.

It's going to take some light weight components to come up with a 6 pound barrel with a DS action and still make 10.5 pounds. You might be able to do it with a 1" scope, but you won't do it with a 30mm. You might be close though with a 18 ounce stock.
 
The best balace?

May i borrow this tread for a question i have wondered about for some time.
The balance of the benchrest rifle is written about her and there, but I can not find out anything about how the balance should be. Is there a formula, or a guideline for how a BR-rifle should balance, or what might be the best way to start testing?
I imagine that a rifle should have about the same weight on each rest, so the point of balance should be about the middle point between the rests, or maybe a bit behind this point to compensate a bit for recoil, but this is only guessing.

I wonder if someone could give some good advise on this question?
 
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When we have a benchrest rifle that has a good balance we consider how easy it is to lift the but of the rifle off the rear bag when the rifle is in forward battery. If it lifts out too easy it will no doubt jump around when fired disturbing both bags and making return to Battery very frustrating.

In all cases I like a well balnced rifle over a heavier barrel, however I don't go below 21.5" with any PPC barrel and I don't go below 22" with any .30 BR barrel. I like all my barrels for LV just over 5 lbs. and 5 lb. 4 oz. seems to be pretty common. Now HV and HVFS Score are a whole different story, you can have way more Barrel weight. This is when trouble can Start, just because you had a 5 lb barrel for LV doesn't mean you can have a 8 lb barrel for HV, you have to add weight to the but to keep the balance. My heaviest HV Barrels are in the 6 lb range and are HV's just over 24" with the straight taper end mostly utilized.

A lighter built stock allows you to use more barrel however if the whole stock is lighter, it allows you to add weight to the rear only to help with balance for a slightly heavier barrel. The lighter stocks allowed us to use heavier scope constrution like the Leupold LCS or the Glued 36 with Jewel, Brackney, Scott, type adjustable systems. Stocks weren't made lighter to allow for a heavier barrel. The shooters felt 5 lbs was heavy enough, but with the heavier scope they didn't want to go below 5 lbs, so the stock was lightened. My Pierce stock weighs 25 ounces and is perfect for my LV allowing me to use the Leupold 45 LCS with a 5 lb 4 ounce barrel

Paul
 
I have a SV action, scoville stock, and a 45x leupold scope with double screew rings. I have about 12oz of weight in the rear with a 5lbs 5oz barrel.
 
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