Machine shop building question

dusty
That may be true in some situations, however in my shoot room the fan doesn't work.
Sometimes, and this may be an entirely different situation than your speaking of, the temp difference is to great inside compared to outside that nothing will work. Again, this probably isn't what your referring to and simply my experience over the last 4 years. Lee
 
skeetlee said:
dusty
That may be true in some situations, however in my shoot room the fan doesn't work.
Sometimes, and this may be an entirely different situation than your speaking of, the temp difference is to great inside compared to outside that nothing will work. Again, this probably isn't what your referring to and simply my experience over the last 4 years. Lee
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Since it's the warm air mixing with the cold you might try exhausting air to the outside away from the shooting port thus drawing cold air in over the rifle. Just another way to skin a cat.
 
In my particular shooting room I have tried everything. Actually its to the point if the temps in and out are not close I don't waste bullets anymore. Im not complaining by any means, as I still get a ton of use from my inside bench. Winter time is simply to drastic. Lee
 
Kentucky winters outside and short sleeve weather inside is pretty drastic to me but hey im a southerner. In my shop im backed up 20' from the window to quell the noise a tad and i have no problem even with 30-50deg differences and no fans. May try that.
 
Dusty, FWIW, I don't think I could shoot backed away from a window. Would need a spotter, or some kind of an alarm system. It would quiet things down for the neighbors, though! ?
F1
 
Yes it is very dangerous. Maybe come up with warning flags or some sign from both sides. Never know whos gonna amble up these days
 
Skeetlee,
I would like to hear a little more about why you did not like the Epoxy painted floor! I was planning on painting my shop floor this summer, but your statement has me putting on the brakes! I also used the OSB plywood for the sidewalls and don't think it was the best idea. There is another drywall product you might want to look at its called Dense Shield, and is used mostly as underlayment in bathrooms. This product has like a plastic surface. Good luck filling up all that premium space.
 
I have a 30X30 shop and am adding a 12X30 for welding, cutting and grinding. MINE IS A METAL BUILDING with metal R panel. It is insulated and I will use R panel in the addition also. My air compressor and Rotary Phase Convertors are outside under cover. My building does not amplify any sounds.
 
steelhead1
My shop currently has a painted floor. Im not real sure you would call it an epoxy floor. the paint we used is made for concrete floors but it wasn't expensive, and most certainly not a two part epoxy mix. The floor I have looks like ass. the paint scuffs stains and is really slippery.
I have been reading about some of the higher end two part epoxy floors this week and some look pretty interesting. The two part floors are expensive and very labor intensive. Probably out of my price range, and probably more work than I have time for.
What I am looking into doing is a high polish. Diamond polish to be exact. there is a hardener that goes on after the first round of grinding. Other than that its all diamond sanding progressively from a 100 grit up to a 2000 grit. I don't know if I can rent any of the equipment to do this job in my area, and I probably wont pay a contractor for this service. if I cant do it myself I wont mess with it.
My second choice is simply going to be a good sealer. there are several on the market, so it will be a little tricky picking what product to use. I have been finishing concrete for over 25 years now and I am certain I could live with my floor just the way it will be after I burn it in with the troweling machine. I may do nothing at all???? Lee
 
Lee- as much as you and I love the looks of a fine slick slab can you imagine how slick just oil mist in the air will make a 2000grit floor? Get with some marble guys they have the stuff you may can borrow or rent
 
Lee, the shops I worked in had wood-block floors. Easier on the feet; can be spot repaired; hard to sweep. I don't imagine they are used much, now.
F1
 
Lee,
Thanks for the details, I am going to have to find something that has a grit or non slip material in it! My wife transits through the shop, and at our age could't afford a slip and fall issue. I might just buy that rubber interlocking block that Lowes & Home Depot sells!
 
Steelhead1 said:
Lee,
Thanks for the details, I am going to have to find something that has a grit or non slip material in it! My wife transits through the shop, and at our age could't afford a slip and fall issue. I might just buy that rubber interlocking block that Lowes & Home Depot sells!
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Just get some non skid to put in your paint. Or do like we do on the boat decks and keep stirring some sand in your paint as you go.
 
Skeet,
The Navy (and Air Force) use a three coat system consisting of epoxy primer, polyurethane intermediate coat and polyurethane topcoat. Some systems have a sealer as well. Color is white (preferred by Air Force) or light grey, although other colors are available (yellow(?) per Dusty's recommendation). To reduce slippage, a #60 aluminum grit is broadcast in the intermediate and top coats. If you want, I can post a copy of the Navy spec. It is detailed, but you can pick up good information in the Products and Execution sections.
 
well the floor is in and I am as sore as you know what. Its been a couple years since I have poured and finished a floor such as this and im feeling the gain!!!! Here are a few pics from yesterday.










pic 1 the long shoot. Without this long shoot we wouldn't have made it. what a life saver.

pic 2 the power screed and my crew. Also without them I wouldn't have made it.

pic3 that's me opening up the floor for the first time. my timing was just right.

pic 4 pic of the floor with one or two more spins to go.

I have a few more pics that I will share after bit. I need to head out and seal the floor and clean up the site. Problem is I cant hardly move this morning. LOL!!! thanks Lee
 
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Lee,

A couple suggestions on the floor finish. Be careful with the grit you use for a non slip surface. Coarse grit in the top coat will shred any sort of sponge or mop that you use to clean the floor. Also if you seal the floor don't use a common acrylic sealer like my landlord did. Any solvent or oil based liquid that falls on the floor will immediately melt into the surface and permanently stain the floor. They will also create a gooey, sticky mess until the solvent evaporates. Make sure that the sealant is solvent and oil resistant. Also a light colored coating will make your shop lighting much more efficient.
 
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im really thinking about polishing this floor. ive been doing lots of reading, and this process really excites me. during the polishing process a hardener is applied and that also makes a lot of since to me. The local rent a center has the tooling, so time will tell. I have to let me concrete cure for at least 28 days before I can grind so I have time to think. Lee
 
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