Lock Ease and moly

P. Octo

Member
I am aware of the benefits of patching with a little drop of Lock-Ease after cleaning a barrel (6PPC) with 'bare' bullets. But I have been a member of that shrinking minority who molycoats their bullets for a number of years. My question: does molycoating provide the same benefits as Lock-Ease in filling up the cracks of the alligator skin at the start of the lands?
My guess is yes but I don't want to put Lock-Ease in a molycoated barrel for no benefit whatsoever. I am looking forward to your fact based opinions!
 
no idea, but walt berger shot moly bullets to the very end.
i would not add a grease to the coating process
 
Thanks. I'll keep the Lock Ease out of the bench rest molycoated barrels and use it in my two Lee Enfields.
 
Happy Easter and Joyeuses Paques
I don’t see the need to add Lock-ease or Boron Nitride to Moly coated barrels. One plus one is not always better.
 
Thanks. Actually, the reason for my question was also that contrary to Moly which is mostly shed in the first few cm as the bearing surface of the bullet gets rid of it due to friction, the Lock Ease is deposited all along the barrel by the patch.
Joyeuses Pâques to you too!
 
"""""contrary to Moly which is mostly shed in the first few cm as the bearing surface of the bullet gets rid of it due to friction """"""""""""""""

First, I respectfully don't agree with you above statement.

Should a bullet be correctly molycoated, one can recover shot bullets which are still coated inside the land prints and everywhere else.

I do pay a lot of attention to degreasing THEN removing copper oxyde on bullets prior to molycoat in a rotating tumbler. Even if bullets looks shining new. I stop tumbling when tiny MoS2 concretions / scales start building on the jacket. These little concretions are easily wiped off a coton or nylon cloth.



Now with regards to barrel conditionning, I have been using lab fine grade MoS2 on patches after cleaning/drying barrels in .30 HBR and 308 Win with good success.


I use it the dry way, preparing powder saturated patches at home. Then after cleaning and drying/degreasing the barrel, I will make 10-15 strokes with the moly'ed patch, then run a dry clean patch that will not fit too hard in the barrel to wipe off the excess and go shooting.

Please note I do not use this technique in 6mm barrels. I tried, was not satisfied, I consider them too small to reach a good spreading of the moly powder, most particularly in the groove/land "corner" area. Maybe some saturated vfg cylindrical felt pads may be used in small barrels. I dunnow.

I also tried some liquid carriers as acetone or gasoline for the moly powder. Works a tad better in small diameter barrels. Issue is then to clean the excess you get in groove/land "corner" because of gravity. Never let the carrier fully evaporate.


I am also using a gear box oil in my cleaning compound. That transmission oil includes some calcium sulfonate with is a very good high pressure lubricant. Calcium sulfonate particles will, as moly, fill the steel grain interstices (not the bath tubb size pits you get close to the chamber).

After "seasoning" a barrel that way, first bullet slide pressure + 4000 bars gas pressure will push moly or calcium sulfo particles in steel grains interstice and it will stay here almost forever.

With regard to "alligator skin" at the throat and forward, that is, in my mind, mostly due to surface nitridation of barrel Fe atoms + thermal stress, leading to cracks and pits. Should you look carefully in there, you might see that your alligator most probably lost a scale here and there. That will never forever get filled with moly or whatever. That will increase bullet scrapping, aka copper fouling.

It's maybe time to go in there with flitz or any kind of barrel steel abrasive compound to "round the edges" in order to limit bullet scrapping. .... And get a new barrel for the match.
 
...

Should a bullet be correctly molycoated, one can recover shot bullets which are still coated inside the land prints and everywhere else.

.........

If you live in a region which gets snow

And if you can find a snowdrift 2ft deep and 10ft long????? (I've never had any bullet up to 30cal get more than 4ft)

((((But a 50BMG projectile might well go 50ft so don't quote me ;) ))))

Then you can fire bullets into the fresh snow and collect them when the snow melts to find bullets which are un-damaged.

ICY or crystallized snow can scrub some of the moly off the front.

I've also heard that firing into an appropriate body of water yields the same results without the scrubbing. But I've never done it.
 
OliveOil: Thanks, food for thought. I have used Flitz several times but found that it would take up to 4 or 5 bullets to stabilize the barrel, as it were, and get back the expected level of precision. So I tend to err on the conservative side during a match and will put through a patch of Carbon Killer, use a 6.5mm bronze brush in the leade to get rid of the carbon ring, then run one patch of Eliminator or Cu+2 and dry before the next relay. Thorough cleaning at the end of the day.
I didn't think the moly would be carried all through the barrel but I admit you make a lot of sense:"first bullet slide pressure + 4000 bars gas pressure will push moly or calcium sulfo particles in steel grains interstice and it will stay here almost forever." Through the borescope I found the gray/black tell-tale marks to almost disappear about 5/6" but the definition of the borescope doesn't allow a great deal of detail.
Anyway, all the comments, for which I thank everyone, confirm my intuition that I'll keep the moly alone for the 6PPCs and try the Lock Ease in the Lee Enfields.
 
the big failure of moly users is not changing the cleaning process when changing to moly. moly is a bbl coating process applied by coated bullets. the object is to coat the bbl,,,if you use a metallic brush you are ruining your prior work.
chemical cleaners. start with a carbon remover and then a bore cleaner. skip all metalic brushes
my 2cents worth
been using moly for over 20 years,, have switched to HBN on newer rifles

OliveOil: Thanks, food for thought. I have used Flitz several times but found that it would take up to 4 or 5 bullets to stabilize the barrel, as it were, and get back the expected level of precision. So I tend to err on the conservative side during a match and will put through a patch of Carbon Killer, use a 6.5mm bronze brush in the leade to get rid of the carbon ring, then run one patch of Eliminator or Cu+2 and dry before the next relay. Thorough cleaning at the end of the day.
I didn't think the moly would be carried all through the barrel but I admit you make a lot of sense:"first bullet slide pressure + 4000 bars gas pressure will push moly or calcium sulfo particles in steel grains interstice and it will stay here almost forever." Through the borescope I found the gray/black tell-tale marks to almost disappear about 5/6" but the definition of the borescope doesn't allow a great deal of detail.
Anyway, all the comments, for which I thank everyone, confirm my intuition that I'll keep the moly alone for the 6PPCs and try the Lock Ease in the Lee Enfields.
 
"skip all metalic brushes" Yes, I quite agree and have used hard nylon brushes for years. The oversized bronze brush is only to get rid of the carbon ring.It makes sure it doesn't go into the lands.
 
Dears,


about recovering bullets :


Just go to the back stop after a good training cession. You will be able to recover enough torned out jackets to check what I mentioned above. You will be able to notice that a good coating is still here.

reminder : shooting the .30, moly coated bullets in a separately moly coated barrel.


about metallic brushes in moly'ed barrels :

Does someone here really think he will be able to remove MoS2 compressed into steel grain lattices / boundaries by repetitive 4000 bars+ pressure waves using a bronze bore brush ? Seriously ? Does someone think it's butter on a toast like able to get scraped off with a knife ?

I have been killing that legend for the last 30 years. You all have borescopes and shot out barrels. Just try and look.
 
question

What is your opinion of Wipe Out products regarding cleaning a 6PPC barrel that always uses Moly coated bullets?
Does it work? Does it do a good job? Does it completely clean the barrel?
Without using any other cleaning product.
Centerfire
 
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