Just be careful as most solvents will destroy the O-rings where they are petroleum based.
I've used some fantastic solvents in the past for my rimfire guns, but now only dare use them if I remove the barrel from the airgun first. And, if you do use them make sure there's no O-ring in the lead of the chamber for the bolt to seat against.
Good luck, and will be waiting on your findings before jumping too high.
Dave
Don't know how many of you read the posts on the Rimfire Forum but I just reported there on a solvent for removing lead that looks very promising. May be worth looking at.
Pete
Pete,
Correct me if I'm wrong here, but didn't I read that after using the Lead Free you were supposed to use a neutralizing agent? There's no way I'm putting something that strong through my barrels, especially while they're still mounted as I'm sure the O-rings would be dissolved on the first go-round.
It sounds great for powder burners, just not so much for puffguns.
Keep us posted cause if I remember correctly, I have been proven wrong more than once before.
Have a safe trip down to FL. And on that, it's better you than me.
Dave
But I've read that air rifle barrels should/do last much longer than powder burners. No combustion products, heat, flame, and associated chemical reactions to etch the barrel.
If true it could be a bad idea to use caustic aggressive cleaners on an air rifle barrel - especially if it shoots well!
I'm no air rifle expert but IF the pellets are made of pure lead(not sure if they are) or are very soft that may be a source of air rifle lead buildup and perhaps its affected by velocity. Friction down the tube generates heat and that may be a lead deposition issue?
They had an air rifle match at LCRC past Sunday, but standing on your feet style.
Pete,
The thing I do is to shoot 1 Felt Cleaning Pellet down the tube about half way through a match. On one of my barrels, a factory .177, it is absolutely essential, but not so much on the other 2, one a .177 and the other a .22, and both being custom barrels. Then, after each card I clean the bore using a tight patch soaked with Kroils using a pull-through. It's amazing. The first patch, the wet one, will come through dirty showing all the lands and grooves, then the next 2 dry patches come through pretty much clean, especially the last one. And even when pulling 2 wet patches, there's no difference.
Dave