Lead Remover

Pete Wass

Well-known member
Don't know how many of you read the posts on the Rimfire Forum but I just reported there on a solvent for removing lead that looks very promising. May be worth looking at.

Pete
 
Thank you so much for the heads up Pete, it seems very promising...I just placed an order with Midway.

Best regards,

AZ
 
Just be careful as most solvents will destroy the O-rings where they are petroleum based.

I've used some fantastic solvents in the past for my rimfire guns, but now only dare use them if I remove the barrel from the airgun first. And, if you do use them make sure there's no O-ring in the lead of the chamber for the bolt to seat against.

Good luck, and will be waiting on your findings before jumping too high.

Dave
 
I see your point on the orings

Just be careful as most solvents will destroy the O-rings where they are petroleum based.

I've used some fantastic solvents in the past for my rimfire guns, but now only dare use them if I remove the barrel from the airgun first. And, if you do use them make sure there's no O-ring in the lead of the chamber for the bolt to seat against.

Good luck, and will be waiting on your findings before jumping too high.

Dave

I will keep posting as I learn from using it. So far, when starting with a clean barrel with lead I could see, the describe process o the label or in the brochure or website occurred as described. I do not have a .177 bore scope so it will be more difficult to document. I will say, the last time I did a through cleaning on my EV 2, it took FOREVER for it to shoot consistently again. Wish I did have a .177 probe for my bore scope. On that subject, someone told me the .177 probe dose not have a mirror, did I remember that correctly?

I guess we could ask Sharpshooter's Supply about the Oring situation, eh?

Pete
 
Pete,

Correct me if I'm wrong here, but didn't I read that after using the Lead Free you were supposed to use a neutralizing agent? There's no way I'm putting something that strong through my barrels, especially while they're still mounted as I'm sure the O-rings would be dissolved on the first go-round.

It sounds great for powder burners, just not so much for puffguns.

Keep us posted cause if I remember correctly, I have been proven wrong more than once before.

Have a safe trip down to FL. And on that, it's better you than me.

Dave
 
It didn't appear to be that strong Dave BUT

Pete,

Correct me if I'm wrong here, but didn't I read that after using the Lead Free you were supposed to use a neutralizing agent? There's no way I'm putting something that strong through my barrels, especially while they're still mounted as I'm sure the O-rings would be dissolved on the first go-round.

It sounds great for powder burners, just not so much for puffguns.

Keep us posted cause if I remember correctly, I have been proven wrong more than once before.

Have a safe trip down to FL. And on that, it's better you than me.

Dave

Who knows? I'm just damn tired of fighting lead in barrels is all. I , at this point, am willing to suffer a little barrel erosion IF, in fact, that might be a possibility. Heck, nothing lasts forever so if something makes my life easier, at this age, I'm "up behind it" as they might say in our urban vernacular. I'll try to get more specifics but I think the SS might be quite resilient.

I remember a few years folks got a little creeped out about ammonia etching SS barrels. Speaking of nothing lasting forever, eh? The worlds best ever group shooter once said there were only something like 600 good shots in a barrel soooooooo. By they way, he doesn't "break in" barrels, either, as I recall. One bullet, one load and it doesn't shoot, off it comes and on with another one. Of course, I don't think the majority of us get 20 barrels chambered trying to find one or two great ones but perhaps, that is what it takes.

I think when it comes to barrels, the propulsion system doesn't matter a whole lot.

Pete
 
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Not sure its true

But I've read that air rifle barrels should/do last much longer than powder burners. No combustion products, heat, flame, and associated chemical reactions to etch the barrel.

If true it could be a bad idea to use caustic aggressive cleaners on an air rifle barrel - especially if it shoots well!
 
Sounds right Kim

But I've read that air rifle barrels should/do last much longer than powder burners. No combustion products, heat, flame, and associated chemical reactions to etch the barrel.

If true it could be a bad idea to use caustic aggressive cleaners on an air rifle barrel - especially if it shoots well!

But, if a barrel leads up a lot, it's still a pain. I have less and less patience for problems. I did get way out there on that one and was sober @ the time. I should probably stick to my own knitting I guess.

Pete
 
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Pete

I'm no air rifle expert but IF the pellets are made of pure lead(not sure if they are) or are very soft that may be a source of air rifle lead buildup and perhaps its affected by velocity. Friction down the tube generates heat and that may be a lead deposition issue?

They had an air rifle match at LCRC past Sunday, but standing on your feet style.
 
Not being able to see

I'm no air rifle expert but IF the pellets are made of pure lead(not sure if they are) or are very soft that may be a source of air rifle lead buildup and perhaps its affected by velocity. Friction down the tube generates heat and that may be a lead deposition issue?

They had an air rifle match at LCRC past Sunday, but standing on your feet style.

The lead deposit is troublesome in the .177 barrel and I don't have a .22 air gun sooooo it's hard to know if the deposits look the same but I was quite amazed to see the deposits disappear in the barrel .22 RF I treated. Doing it mechanically would have taken a lot of work. The chemical action happened as was advertised,

I have been wondering if Chromeolly leads up the same as SS does? I may try a CM barrel soon.

P
 
Pete,

The thing I do is to shoot 1 Felt Cleaning Pellet down the tube about half way through a match. On one of my barrels, a factory .177, it is absolutely essential, but not so much on the other 2, one a .177 and the other a .22, and both being custom barrels. Then, after each card I clean the bore using a tight patch soaked with Kroils using a pull-through. It's amazing. The first patch, the wet one, will come through dirty showing all the lands and grooves, then the next 2 dry patches come through pretty much clean, especially the last one. And even when pulling 2 wet patches, there's no difference.

Dave
 
I have an old Crossman pump up pellet pistol I use to cause Buzzards to want to leave the High voltage power line tower I have in my yard. I only give it a few pumps as I don't want ...well let me say "I afraid to kill the bastards". A while back I began to miss the" little prettys". I scrubbed the bore with tight dry patch's, as I feared the same damage my friend Dave mentioned. well, that helped a lot. My wife enjoyed seeing me plunk one a couple of days ago. The stinky bastards are trainable. Once you've plunked one he just has to see the pellet gun again & he moves on. I've got a pretty good RWS Model 48 pellet gun, but if I should kill the protected beast I'll have to go to the "big house" !! :)
 
Sounds like

Pete,

The thing I do is to shoot 1 Felt Cleaning Pellet down the tube about half way through a match. On one of my barrels, a factory .177, it is absolutely essential, but not so much on the other 2, one a .177 and the other a .22, and both being custom barrels. Then, after each card I clean the bore using a tight patch soaked with Kroils using a pull-through. It's amazing. The first patch, the wet one, will come through dirty showing all the lands and grooves, then the next 2 dry patches come through pretty much clean, especially the last one. And even when pulling 2 wet patches, there's no difference.

Dave

There isn't any "ironed no" lead in air guns. Sounds right as there is little or no heat. I would guess staying on top of it is essential.

Pete
 
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