Jim Hardy Die Question

[Lynn]

Jim
I received my die in the mail today for the 300 wsm and now I have a couple questions I hope you can answer before I go pestoring the Warners.
Do you put all of the spacer shims in to start with and remove as necessary?
Or do you add them later? I ask because if you set the die in the press so the ram and shellholder are flush when you go to add a shim it will contact the ram sooner.If I add them all at the start I could just remove them without having to reset the die couldn't I ?
Also can I order up say a 6 Dasher insert that would go into the same die body or do I need another body as well? I ask because I would like to set the die up once and leave it alone forever,but if I can use it for the Dasher as well I won't need another press and die.
It came with a aluminum handled punch of sorts and I am guessing this is just a tool to help remove the neck shoulder bushing and the body bushing is that correct?
I got the shoulder bump measuring tool as well.I think I now own about 20 of them.
Lynn aka Waterboy

 

[alinwa]

Jim Hardy makes dies with an integral shoulder/neck bushing?

al

 

[Lynn]

Jim Hardy makes dies with an integral shoulder/neck bushing?

al

Al
Jim uses a Warner Tool full length die in 300 wsm and mine just showed up in the mail.I would like to set it up properly and Jim is a wealth of knowledge plus he owns a similar die.
Lynn aka Waterboy

 

[alinwa]

Gotcha'

thanks

al

 

[Law Dawg]

Warner die question

Lynn:

Sorry it has taken me some time to reply. I have only visited BRC since the change of format, and I had to register again to respond.

Small correction: I use the Warner die on my 284 Shehane. Currently, I still have my Carstensen dies for my 300 WSM. I will try to answer your questions in the sequence in which they were asked.

1. Do you put all the spacer shims in to start with and remove as necessary? Well, without the shims, your WTC die will size about .005 -- which is too much of course. If you have a headspace button, it is a pretty easy task to adjust the die where you want it. There is nothing wrong with starting with the shims in place, and then adjusting by trial and error. However, make sure you loosen the top of the die before you adjust the shims in the base, i.e., adjust the shims, tighten the base screws, then tighten the top of the die.

2. If I add them all (shims) at the start, I could just remove them without having to reset the die couldn't I? In my opinion, it would be a real PITA to do it that way -- at least for my old hands. After all, once you get it correct, you are done. No big deal.

3. Also, can I order up say a 6 Dasher insert that would go into the same body or do I need another body as well? I think you can, but I would give Al Warner a call. He is in Canada as I speak and should be back this week.

4. Aluminum handled punch of sorts? If you look at the lock ring on the die, you will see a hole. This is for the tip of the "punch" to engage like a spaner wrench to tighten and untighten the die. However, the lock ring is so large that you can get a lot of leverage with just your hands. Having said that, the tool sure allows you to get a good purchase to the top of your press -- and release. Be easy as this is a lot of leverage.

NOTE: I suspect, without knowing, that you did not recieve the instruction sheet with the die as it would answer some of your questions in more detail. You can also look in the archives of 6mmBR.com for a pretty detailed article on the WTC die that will help. If you need the instruction sheet, just send me your Fax number, and I will get you a copy.

As you already know, when you hold this die in your hand, you know that only a Master could have created such a work of art. The runout on my fired 284 Shehane neck turned brass (using a NECO which is somewhat subject to the uniformity of the meplat that enters the gauge) and loaded match rounds (180 Hybrids) runs from dead nuts to (as best as I can estimate) .0005 TIR. If nothing else, that is a confidence builder.

Favor Center,
Jim Hardy

 

[Lynn]

Jim
Thanks for the help! I had it down pretty well but I didn't want to screw something up.I would have never guessed in a million years that that aluminum handle fit into the lock-ring.I assumed there was a socket head allen in the lock-ring ala RCBS dies and never gave it a second thought.

Right now my brass has 3 firings on it and hasn't expanded enough to get headspaced as set-up by Al's brother or son Don.My load is 64.4 grains of H4350 behind a 187 BIB ignited by CCI BR2 primers in Norma 300 WSM brass hard into the lands.It is the best Norma brass I have ever used or heard of.
Don suggested I anneal the cases in order to help out the springback so that is next.
My reamer has a 0.287 freebore which is so long that a 190 Sierra barely goes into the neck.I took my cases to a match and simply closed the bolt to seat those bullets as it was a club match and it got me lots of ribbons.
Today at 1,000 yards on the windy relay I took home two seconds and a first in heavygun and the guy who beat me was none other than Jerry Tierney.A fellow shooter from southern California commented that Jerry should shoot in a seperate class so I figure it is shooting okay so far.
Thanks Again for the help.
Lynn aka Lynn

P.S. Yes it is definately a work of art and its also very heavy.I picked up the box and didn't know what was in it because I thought it was way too heavy to be a die.