I've read it, now I truely believe it

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BenKeith

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If all new R-P brass is like this 200, 260 brass I just bought, it's JUNK.

I've been weighing and measuring the brass, doing the usuall stuff to get some uniform brass to use for checking the accuracy for a new 260 barreled action. So far, going through 200 casings, I have not be able to come up with any 10 identical casings. The weights are varying between 161.7 gr and 165.2 and the wall thickness is not consistant on any of them. The base diameters are varying .003", which is going to make it kinda hard to mic them after firing when checking for over pressure. This stuff is strickly for when hunting and you don't want to look for brass after it hits the ground, shoot it and leave it.

I sure hope I have better luck with 50 rounds of Nosler or it looks like I'm going to be ordering some Lapua 308 brass and necking it down.
 
I think it is logical to have quality problems just after a mass sellout on a product, and a mad scramble to rebuild stocks.
 
Papa,You may be on to something.I have always considered Win to be about the best in domestic brass, and lately it has not been very good,either.Maybe the madness is about over and everything will return to normal.This was not the first time, but may have been the longest! Lightman
 
I've heard the WW brass is suppose to be better than the R-P. I ordered it for my 6mm, but haven't started checking it yet. I didn't find a WW 260 brass or I would have ordered it instead of the R-P.
 
What you are seeing with your Remington brass is so common I do not considerate even unusual. The latest of Winchesters brass I have noticed starting this last December has a higher rejection rate than ever before. The days of the 7-8% are now up to a high 12-15%. If competition is your game the Nosler/Hornady brass will be a total disappointment to you.

All of your best hopes really do lay with European brass. Look to Lapua for the solution. Be prepared to spend from deep pockets as none of it comes cheap. Check with Huntingtons as your importer and any die needs you may need.

http://www.huntingtons.com/cases.html
 
Ben ...

I've been weighing and measuring the brass, doing the usuall stuff to get some uniform brass to use for checking the accuracy for a new 260 barreled action. So far, going through 200 casings, I have not be able to come up with any 10 identical casings. The weights are varying between 161.7 gr and 165.2 and the wall thickness is not consistant on any of them. The base diameters are varying .003", which is going to make it kinda hard to mic them after firing when checking for over pressure. This stuff is strickly for when hunting and you don't want to look for brass after it hits the ground, shoot it and leave it.

If you're trying to put a bullet through the same hole you want LAPUA. If your target is an 8 inch circle at 100 yards the rest of the stuff out there will do. I'd never leave a piece of LAPUA on a hillside! ;)
 
Competition is not in the equation. It's just when I start building loads for a new rifle, I like to use competition quality brass. I like to keep twenty or thirty fully preped and matched brass (BR quality) just for building and checking loads. Even if I could only get two or three groups of 10 alike would do but that has proven impossible with just 200 casings. I ordered the 50 rounds of Nosler when I ordered the RP, just in case the RP turned out like it has. It was over twice as expensive as the RP but I heard it was suppose to be fairly good brass.

If one wanted 20 - 30 good Lapua casing that were fairly closely matched, how many would you suggest I order. Yea, I've looked at the price and I was trying to avoid that if I could but I don't think I could get there with a 1,000 RP casings.
 
You say you want, "20-30"?.....

Competition is not in the equation. It's just when I start building loads for a new rifle, I like to use competition quality brass. I like to keep twenty or thirty fully preped and matched brass (BR quality) just for building and checking loads. Even if I could only get two or three groups of 10 alike would do but that has proven impossible with just 200 casings. I ordered the 50 rounds of Nosler when I ordered the RP, just in case the RP turned out like it has. It was over twice as expensive as the RP but I heard it was suppose to be fairly good brass.

If one wanted 20 - 30 good Lapua casing that were fairly closely matched, how many would you suggest I order. Yea, I've looked at the price and I was trying to avoid that if I could but I don't think I could get there with a 1,000 RP casings.

Then purchase 20-30 Lapua. Seriously, you can get by with purchasing the minimum number sold. Probably 50 or 100.

virg
 
It's Common Knowledge

When it comes to brass, ie, brass quality, R-P has always been pretty loose on the wall thickness tolerance and consistancy in weight. It will, however, take about as much abuse as any out there, (well, maybe not Lapua), so for many applications, it fits the bill.

As was said, the best way to arrive at top notch 260 Brass is to use 243 Lapua as the parent. You will have to do a little more work, but in the end, it is probably worth it. ........jackie
 
I purchased 2000 rounds of Winchester .223 brass that was packed in 100 rd bags. The first bag contained 7 pieces of .222 brass and the second one 12 pieces of .222 brass. I haven't opened the other 18 bags yet. Unfortunately I discovered this situation when one .222 got by me and I blew a primer in my Savage 112BT in .223. As Gomer Pyle said " Surprise Surprise". :eek:
 
After checking prices at Cablea's, the Lapua is no more expensive than the Nosler. Your recommendinding to neck up 243 over necking down 308. My barrel is suppose to have a .300" neck diameter. When I measure the R-P brass with a bullet seated in it, it measures .293" giving me a .007" clearance and that's with no turning. I had much rather have a .002" - .003" clearance on the test casings. I was thinking it would be better to get the 308 brass. Necking them down should give me a thicker neck area, which I can turn to make a uniform thickness and hopefully closer to the desired clearance of .002 - .003".

I haven't done this stuff for a long time so if I'm all wet behind the ears, let me know where I'm trying to screw up.

Understand, these are not going to be used for anything but building loads, I will not be using these for anything else. I always prefer to take as many variables out of the picture as I can control when developing loads for a rifle and I feel if I use consistant casings, that's one variable gone. I know a tight neck size can cause chambering problem but at the bench, that's not a problem. Just like I fire it once and only neck size size it, where I always full length size hunting loads to keep a round that don't want to chamber from showing up.
 
After checking prices at Cablea's, the Lapua is no more expensive than the Nosler. Your recommendinding to neck up 243 over necking down 308. My barrel is suppose to have a .300" neck diameter. When I measure the R-P brass with a bullet seated in it, it measures .293" giving me a .007" clearance and that's with no turning. I had much rather have a .002" - .003" clearance on the test casings. I was thinking it would be better to get the 308 brass. Necking them down should give me a thicker neck area, which I can turn to make a uniform thickness and hopefully closer to the desired clearance of .002 - .003".

I haven't done this stuff for a long time so if I'm all wet behind the ears, let me know where I'm trying to screw up.

Understand, these are not going to be used for anything but building loads, I will not be using these for anything else. I always prefer to take as many variables out of the picture as I can control when developing loads for a rifle and I feel if I use consistant casings, that's one variable gone. I know a tight neck size can cause chambering problem but at the bench, that's not a problem. Just like I fire it once and only neck size size it, where I always full length size hunting loads to keep a round that don't want to chamber from showing up.



Lapua comes in 100 round boxes. If I have even a hunting rifle I really are about (as in bet money on) I just make life more simple and use all Lapua brass to do everything with.

Considering all the different things that makes for the best brass, Lapua is near the top of the heap. Now I want to tell you that yes some of the European companies make even better brass than Lapua, Lapua is cheaper and easier to find in the U.S.A.
 
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