Is swapping barrels regularly advisable?

L

lojak

New member
Hi all,

I'd like to get a little deeper into the short-range BR and long-range F-Class games, but my I'm on a budget. Ideally, I'd like to use the same action and stock for both types, and just change the barrel. Now given the frequency of both kinds of events in my neck of the woods (Ontario, Canada), as well as time for load development, I could be looking at multiple barrel swaps a week during the busy season. So, is doing that sort of thing advisable? Assuming the barrel is tightened properly (to ~ 125lbs, which seems to be the common answer), can I expect to compete?

Thanks,

-- S.
 
No problem, just make sure you clean the threads (barrel and receiver) and lube them properly (high pressure grease or something similiar) when putting them together. One concern would be stocks....Short Range is more restrictive on stocks than F-Class. I would really check into that.

Hovis
 
We don't consider swapping a barrels back and forth to be much of an event at all, probably not much more momentous than putting a new air cleaner on your car. 125 ft-lbs is a little snug though, it won't hurt anything but not necessary either. I've not exactly ever used a torque wrench but I suspect that I usually use around 40-50 ft-lbs.
 
Switch barrel

On the advice of my gunsmith, I'm using a measured 65 ft. lbs., and using a "Snap-on" Torque Wrench: 6BR to 308 to 6BR. Never any problems and swap whenever I feel like it. Takes about 30 minutes.
 
S

If done properly, changing barrels frequently has no ill affects on the action.

I have one Rifle, my favorite Sporter-LV, that I am apt to change barrels at the drop of a hat. It has had dozens on it.

I do use a tad more torque than others suggested, about 125 ft pounds. I personally do not think 65 is enough, but that is just my opinion based on my own experience. If you get it a little too tight, it is of no consequence. Too loose, and the results will speak for themselves..........jackie
 
jackie schmidt: Yes, I was skeptical about the 65 pounds, and for that reason put a very small drop of paint ( a "witness" mark, if you will) at the barrel/receiver joint, left side, behind the barrel ident engraving. Before, during & after firing, it is checked for movement, and has never happened. The g'smith ( with over 40 yrs. experience) said that he normally uses 125 ft. lbs. on non-switch barrels that leave his shop, but has never had problems with 65 for switch-barrels.
 
I know of a few top gunsmiths that say 60-65 ft lbs is enough and I wouldn't argue with them for a second over it. I just don't have a warm fuzzy feeling with it though but I'm also the one who would probably use a 3/4 inch drive with a cheater bar to tighten head bolts...

Anyway, one thing that hasn't been mentioned that some might disagree on. On a new barrel...tighten it to around 125 ft lbs...loosen it and then torque it to what ever you want. You shouldn't take new threads and tighten straight to a certain torque without loosening and retorqueing....or you just might end up with a barrel you can screw off by hand after a couple hundred rounds.

Hovis
 
Properly done with proper equipment, you could swap barrels 6-8 times per day with no ill effect on any of the components,

Proper equipment-a firmly secured barrel vise like the 4-bolt type sold by Kelblys, Sinclair, Bruno. etc.
-A well fitted rear entry action wrench. Get one made specifically for your action.
-A good quality grease for the barrel threads, and don't spare the application. You don't need a cup full on the tenon but you need enough to make sure ever square cc will have a film of grease.

Proper method-If you have an action and scope bases that will allow easily removing the scope remove the scope. Rifle scopes are not made to withstand much side shock. Actions that dovetail like the Stolle Panda or round actions that have that similar dovetail. Removing a scope by unbolting the ring caps is a pain.
-Firmly clamp the barrel, just ahead of the stock forend. If the barrel is polished or blued, use a wrap of target paper between the barrel and vise.
-Make sure the rear-entry action wrench is seated to where it was designed to operate.
-Use something thick and firm like 2 old leather boot tongues to protect the stock comb where the wrench will operate.
-Break the barrel loose, remove the action wrench and unscrew the barrel. Some folks feel more secure by taking the assembly out of the vise and unscrew the barrel by hand instead of leaving the barrel in the vise and unscrewing the action and stock.

Once apart, wipe the action lugs and inside the action threads of all powder residue and other gunk.

Apply grease to the to be installed barrel and reverse the above process.

As to how much torque, like Jackie I do not believe 65 ft/lb is enough to firmly secure the joint. Torque to at least, at least, 100 ft/lb.

If your barrels were properly chambered and you could simply slide the scope off and back on, you should be within +/- 6" at 100 yards.
 
f d shuster said:
jackie schmidt: Yes, I was skeptical about the 65 pounds, and for that reason put a very small drop of paint ( a "witness" mark, if you will) at the barrel/receiver joint, left side, behind the barrel ident engraving. Before, during & after firing, it is checked for movement, and has never happened. The g'smith ( with over 40 yrs. experience) said that he normally uses 125 ft. lbs. on non-switch barrels that leave his shop, but has never had problems with 65 for switch-barrels.
Click to expand...

IMO the barrel will never rotate on its axis such that the witness mark would indicate movement. But POI will change if torque isn't high enough.

Takes a good gun and shooter to see it.

al
 
If I were going to develop a switch barrel rifle, and had options, I would choose an action with fairly fine threads and lots of thread engagment. Short coarse threads just aggravate the situation.
 
Wow, all of this is great information, and I'm grateful to each and every one of you. Thanks :) I'll post my project once it's done!

-- Stephen
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top