Interesting Bedding Technique

Boyd Allen,
I understand where your going. Some time back, I had reason to question a stock. I made a jig that referenced
everything on the parallel edges on a 3 inch for arm. The other end was adjustable for height and angle, but allowed
the area from toe to grip (rear bag place) to be determined as straight or otherwise. while clamped in the jig, it could be
turned over and found that barrel center was not what was wanted. This was not very envolved and amounted to
4 pcs some with milled slots for adjustment.
 
I will try to take some pics of the fixtures I use this week, very simple, very adjustable (or not), very repeatable. Did I say very simple?? I may produce them for sale, when I have time, will work on virtually any action and produce a perfect job every time.
 
Question, I have recently assembled and fit a Rem XP-100 into a rifle stock formerly occupied by a BAT. In doing so to accommodate the rear action screw that goes down through instead of up through the action, I made a pillar relieved and threaded to accept the action screw. The bottom of the pillar is threaded to accept the trigger guard screw. I have bedded the pillar into Accra glass and Marine tech. I set up the stock in a cradle with levels to make sure the fore end and butt were true with the stock center line. I did not worry about equal amounts to the sides of the barrel channel and sanded that after to make it look right. I did set it up to be a little muzzle high and not totally parallel to the bottom of the fore end. I would be interrested in how much time your fixture would have saved me ? Im guessing alot. should I have just threaded the action and run the action screw all the way through the pillar? Not much material to thread into. I do have pics. But I am not able to get them in here for some reason .. I am up for redoing something if there are any other suggestions.

Andy B
 
Andy,

I've done a couple of XP-100 receivers the same way with a threaded boss bedded into the stock and the screw going down through the receiver into this threaded boss. Worked perfect! In some regards, I actually like this technic better.
 
Roy,

I had to cut and weld the original trigger guard to fit into the stock without it being to far into the pistol grip area. But so far so good. Glad to see I went in the right direction .. Thanx for the reply.
 
RoyB said:
Makes zero sense to me. A few wraps of tape around the barrel to keep it centered and supported in the barrel channel has worked well enough for most smiths to perform thousands of bedding jobs.
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And a bunch of bad glue ins have happened on fiberglass stocks that were warped. Fiberglass stocks all warp, just some more than others.
 
Wildcatter,

I have had to square my stocks from center line by hand tools. With some effort I can get the action center to align with the stock center line, I will center the barrel channel then use tape or o-rings to set the pitch. Without a mill, do you have any suggestions short of a fixture like Ian has mentioned ? I am using machinist flat edges, levels, calipers and hand tools, takes all of my patience.

Andy B
 
Al, one must be very careful with Play Doh. It contains a large amount of NaCl and will promote rust of any metal that it touches. Modeling clay does not have this salt and can be left in contact with metal much longer. Good shooting....James
 
JD Mock said:
Al, one must be very careful with Play Doh. It contains a large amount of NaCl and will promote rust of any metal that it touches. Good shooting....James
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Yes it does, James....and I should have added to get some oil on things before and after the Play Doh. Thanks for adding this. -Al
 
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