If you like your rear bag...

B

Boyd Allen

Active member
...describe it, and tell us what stock(s) fit it. What sort of fill? How is it packed? Your shooting style? Accessories (Otto ring, etc.)
 
I have a Haydon Hump, it is filled with Black Sand that I have accumulated over the years from Gold prospecting. It is full & packed semi-hard. It weighs about 25 pounds. My gun has a Tom Meredith BR stock that has Tru-Kote Teflon tape on it's lower edges. I embedded Boron Nitride into the bunny ears of the bag & it's slicker than oiled ice. The stock tracks very well on this bag & the bag never moves on the bench, once set up. I shoot free recoil. My pedestal is a Bald Eagle Slingshot, Aluminum, not Cast Iron, with a ribbed Cordura front bag, also with Boron Nitride on the rib & sides. I really like this set up , it's steady, stable, & tracks excellent.. If it weren't for those damn lying wind flags, I would be shooting like a real competitor....:D
 
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Excellent post.

A while back, I got some boron nitride with the express idea of trying it on my bags. How did you embed it in yours?
 
I just dip my finger in the powder & rub it into the Cordura. I don't think it's toxic, it's used a lot in the cosmetics industry. If it's OK for a womans face, it shouldn't hurt me or my bags, I may start coating bullets with it, or try it to condition my bores.....
 
I might be out of line in responding since I have been getting poor tracking with my current set-up:
Robertson stocks on a 6 ppc, and a 30 BR/ Old Farley coax-upgraded / Edgewood front bag w/ Speedy sand mix/free-recoil/score shoots only
Edgewood mini-gator w/ mid ears (taller version) 3 stitch, base filled w/ hvy sand, ears w/Speedy mix, Kel pure silicone / a 1/16 thk sheet of anti-skid rubber placed under base.
Was getting bag upset,forcing me to go to the elevation knob every 2nd or 3rd shot.
Yesterday, I scrutinized every detail in my set-up and shooting manners. I noticed there was very little gap at the bottom flat of the stock so I added more sand to rear bag ears,(actually can't get anymore in)....this helped ...but I also found a habit I formed from day one in BR...I tapped the buttstock with my fist, after I returned to battery and ran the gun back and forth in the bags. Once I eliminated the tapping, It was tracking well. That tapping had no ill consequences when I was a bag squeezer, but it was a ritual that become my normal routine.
It took many sessions to trouble shoot the problem....I was convinced the rear bag was slipping on the bench tops, hence that anti-skid mat.
 
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I know that the feeling that you get when you finally figure out something that has been bugging you. It feels good. As to the stock touching the main bag, I asked Lester Bruno whether it should, and he said no. So I stopped being concerned about it. One thing that I have noticed is that some bags have a larger angle between the inside of the ears, and this may be an advantage, in that the bottom corners of the stock form grooves near the bottoms of their respective ears that are more stable vertically as well as laterally. On the other hand, with ears that are more parallel to the sides of the stock, the stock is more able to wedge itself lower as it is being used, and the lateral support is more spread vertically on the ears, not necessarily a good thing.
 
Boyd- being a Pa dutchman I had to read the latter part of your last reply 2x for it to sink in....... Yesterday, I noticed precisely what your talking about, my shooting partner has a Bruno stock/ all-leather Protektor rear bag and he showed me the black marks on his ears where the stock seems to always ride. He doesn't have tracking issues, I chalked it up to it being a 6 ppc loaded on the mild side (H322)
I just checked my set-up ( actually it's got 2 stitches, not 3) and the ears kind of just bulge with no finite "V" shape, the ears are all cordura.
I also have a Edgewood gator with the smaller ears (2 stitch also), but no matter how I fill the ears the stock comes awfully close to bottoming. The gator has a leather/cordura combination on the ears and therefore has a more pronounced "V" shape.
Next time out I will compare tracking with both and maybe one of my original Protektor bags.
You may have a point. On my pardners set-up, his pressure point is near the base of the bag, and even though I have a lot more stock to bag ear contact, there may be less stability in my set-up.
 
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Boyd
I use Edgewood rear bags and let my stock bottom out.I use carnuba wax on the ears.
I epoxy the bottom layer of leather because it will curl on you allowing the bag to move.That little edge will roll under the hard bottom and once that happens the bag will start moving under recoil.
Waterboy
 
Well for what its worth to everyone.
To keep bags from sliding (not rocking) we tried something yesterday at a local match and it worked great.

We used 80 grit sticky sand paper.
You can just stick it to the bench under your rear bag or stick it to the bottom of the rear bag.

It peels right off after the match from the bag or the bench.
Shot a whole match and never had to touch the rear bag for adjustment.
 
What you mention

LHSmith said:
Robertson stocks on a 6 ppc
Yesterday, I scrutinized every detail in my set-up and shooting manners. I noticed there was very little gap at the bottom flat of the stock so I added more sand to rear bag ears,(actually can't get anymore in)....this helped QUOTE]

in your post is what I noticed with my setup. Speedy BRX stock by Robertson with a SEB rear bag. The rifle actually tracks VERY well in the setup. It was taking very little movement with the joystick to get things back on track at the target.

I always check for daylight between the bottom of the stock and the top of the bag. I noticed at our first match this year that before the end of 5 matches I was not seeing any daylight or hardly any. The heel was riding on the stitching of the bag.

I have not repacked the ears or bag but that will be done in short order.

Calvin
Click to expand...
 
I set up my rest and rear bag, and did a break away force comparison with a couple of rear bags and one of the new cloth over leather Tru-Cote (sp?) front bags. I measured force with a Chatillion trigger pull guage hooked to the root of the open bolt. The purpose was to test whether there was any advantage to using used drier sheets between stock tape and bags. There seemed not to be. In fact, the lowest rear bag friction was with my old Cordura eared Edgewood that had been treated a loooong time ago with Sailcote. I guess that I need to get busy and spray my new bags, and respray the old one. Another thing that I need to test is putting Pledge on the stock tape and then polishing it. I have seen one of the long time shooters at Visalia do this, and I think it worth a try.
 
A Reddish Neck Soltion:

I had the same issue with my Gator bag so, I took some thin soft steel wire, made two wraps around the ears on the outside and and twisted the ends together to tighten the wraps up. Brought the ears together nicely. Tracking improved and the bag stays put. I also did the same to my "miracle Fabric" Protector rear bag and same deal. Probably something threaded through the ears with a button backer on one or bof sides would do nicely. Wouldn't look so crude mayhaps.
 
Boyd,

I have tried Pledge or any spray automotive car wax on the stock and it works great. A blast of some silicone spray on the front bag and ears and slick as ice on a Manitoba Highway......

As a matter of fact thanks for the reminder to put that bottle back in my shooting case.

Calvin
 
am I understanding correctly that the bottom of the stock should not make contact with the main bag ( between the ears )?
 
Paulie

that is what the general consensus is from what I hear and read. Flat bottom stocks should ride on the edges not the flat. Round stock is the same except they do not have the edges.......

Calvin
 
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