HOkayyy, test video
- Thread starter alinwa
- Start date
OK, I've managed to get several vids up.....
The name of the channel is currently opinionsby____al with the space being composed of 4 underscores.
Channel isn't yet managed or ordered, but generally speaking going in numerical order will give some semblance of order.
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCHUSygpfbRxacTIxqbHiCjQ/videos
The name of the channel is currently opinionsby____al with the space being composed of 4 underscores.
Channel isn't yet managed or ordered, but generally speaking going in numerical order will give some semblance of order.
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCHUSygpfbRxacTIxqbHiCjQ/videos
Al, Butch, Jackie, Mike B and Gene I am sitting here thinking and wondering if a Coaxial indicator can be used to dial in the chamber and throat. I have one that reads to .0002 and what is it that I may be missing about it not being able to be used for that long reach purpose?
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GeneT
Active member
Well, I'd be a liar if I said I'd tried it, but having given it a little thought, here's my thinking: the straight tip on my Co-Ax (Blake) is ~1.3" long and fairly thick. After that you hit the clamping arrangement which is too big for most anything (particularly given that it will move eccentrically). I think you could reach in 1.25" and probably do fine, but you'd need to indicate a full 360* rotation to be sure you weren't fooling yourself (since the co-ax isn't designed to sit in one position). AND you'd need room for that fat tip to rotate, which might make it unsuitable for smaller calibers. You can't really thin out the probe because the co-ax takes an order of magnitude (or more) force to operate than a dti. It might work under some circumstances (very short chamber, preferably large caliber) but I don't think it's an improvement over a mitutoyo dti with extended probe. But, hey! I've been wrong before (that one time back in '87...) so you might consider giving it a go and seeing what *you* think.
Good luck!
GsT
Well, I'm completely sideways with videoing me trying to #1, turn necks on the lathe (FAIL so far) and #2, documenting a whole NUTHER coaxial situation I discovered re barrel nutting. I just finished building a fireforming barrel (It was straight) so's I can #3, get some cases fireformed to try the lathe-neckturn thing again.......... but by this evening I plan to have another barrel in the lathe and I will video some tests showing direct readouts VS readings taken on the Gordy rod but RIGHT OUT IN THE OPEN so's we can all look at it and see if there's correlation 
This uploading thing is a real onry problem. I started 2 videos last nite at midnite and only the 2-minute one uploaded while the 9-minute one dropped out sometime in the night.
I will videotape some open-air readings on the Gordy Gritter's rod
This uploading thing is a real onry problem. I started 2 videos last nite at midnite and only the 2-minute one uploaded while the 9-minute one dropped out sometime in the night.
I will videotape some open-air readings on the Gordy Gritter's rod
Hmmmm, I'm missing something as my coaxial stuff (from my Bridgeport) would be completely helpless what with those lands scrubbing by sideways....... a typical longstem is still dragged over sideways but the heavy hinge at the pivot keeps it fairly accurate
Thanks Gene not being one who believes there any stupid questions why not ask what comes to mind to those you trust and thank you for your input. I have used the steady rest approach rifle shoots good. Through the headstock dialing in both ends using guage pins rifles shoot good. Now time to try something I have not yet tried dialing in the throat. I don't have a long reach indicator I can get one and that's what prompted my question. In my own head by dialing it in 360 I could also use the tail stock to push the reamer straight in after being drilled and bored. I have always strived to reach perfection with everything I do. So I have always picked the minds of those who have already reached the place I want to take myself too.
Rubicon Prec.
New member
A coax indicator is the wrong tool for the job. Coax indicators are to be used in a spindle to check location in relation to a stationary feature. Also, most of the coax indicators dial marks are not really representative of an actual dimension. I think on my Blake, each tic mark is supposed to represent "around" .0005" of axis offset when sweeping a 2" hole/boss. In reality, you are not measuring with them, rather just looking for movement.
Now if you want to align your tailstock or reamer, they aren't too bad.
I have a video showing mine in use but I need to get it uploaded somewhere I can share it from. I'll try to do that later.
I wss told "if you can make it to 50 without growing up...YOU DON'T HAVE TO!!!"
I took it to heart.
I did get yer missive.
I don't know. I made three "middle-sized ones" to weigh exactly as much as my Ezell and don't remember, I'll pop off some others and weigh when I can
GeneT
Active member
The problem with using the tailstock (though it may not be a problem) is that any misalignment between tailstock and spindle persists. You can put something in the spindle and dial it to zero runout, but any difference between the spindle center of rotation and the tailstock is still there. No amount of workholding adjustment will ever change that (the work must rotate on the same center as the spindle). Which leads to the tailstock. The tailstock might be right in line with the spinde, in which case Bob's your uncle and you're on your merry way. But, most likely your tailstock is not perfectly aligned with your spindle (darnit!) and it's probably high by a thou or two. (mine is several thousandths high). There are some convolutions you can go to - modifying your tailstock, torquing it to a locked position with a torque wrench (not a guarantee - but if it makes you feel good...), or using your headstock, dialed in, to drill and ream a center for tailstock operations. There are also expensive tailstock offset adapters (the astute viewer will note one in the Gordy video...) but they must be offest in distance AND direction to really fix the problem. IMO, most of those 'adjustments' are not worth it. Yep (comin' out of the closet) I use a (JGS) floating reamer holder...
Don't discount your own experience. I've cut chambers in the worst of ways and ended up with shooters (though probably not by benchrest standards), but there are too many variables to nail down for anyone to say "this is the one true way to cut an accurate chamber". A lot of folks claim that, but it's statistically impractical to prove. IMO, you get a barrel, of whatever quality, and things can only go downhill from there. You use technique X or Y to cut the chamber and it shoots or it doesn't - that doesn't prove a thing about technique X or Y - it's that barrel, and your implementation of the technique, and *luck*. You could have the wrong technique entirely, but implement it badly and end up accidentally cutting a perfect chamber. It likely wouldn't ever happen again, but it's possible. The point is, any particular result isn't really proof or indictment of any method - there are just too many variables to score. Chambering theory is just that - theory. If it were established science you would see everyone here agreeing that "XXX" is the only right way to chamber a barrel.
BTW, because you've mentioned my name, I want to note, I'm not an expert. I'm an explorer, just like you. The day I can cut three consecutive barrels that all shoot "teens" I'll let you know (trust me, you won't miss the announcement!),
Common sense does prevail Gene but often times it is not the same and thanks for sharing what you just did. Perfection is what I think we all try to strive for and by the life of me no matter how fast I run to try and catch up to it. It is has always been at least one step ahead of me. And with that being said I will never give up trying!
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Be careful what'cha' wish for
I pour concrete for a living.
Each day we strive for "the perfect job" to little avail.
We once had a perfect day, perfect service and we got lucky....... we poured down $35,000.00 worth of exposed aggregate stairs/walks/patios in "Windsor" brown agate-rock aggregate with "Adobe" integral color...... a part of the concrete work on a million dollar renovation/upgrade to a home.
We did a perfect job, FINALLY!
"""Now all we gotta' do is clean 'er up, wrap up and smile......."""
5 days later after pressure-wash/muriatic acid-wash/high gloss sealer the job it were GLEAMING in thee sun, we were so proud.
The couple came home from vacation in Italy just as we were getting the last of the plastic masking rolled up.
Lady walked out, said "hi," walked around with pursed lips and went inside.
She came out to get her mail and I caught her, "Ma'am, what do you think?"
"It looks like SH!T"
"huh?"
"It looks like I bought it at Walmart and rolled it out on the ground!"
Yep we used to build custom homes for the wealthy and they changed their minds like I changed my socks everyday. On one occasion the wife thought the windows in the front were to small. So we made them bigger and to the size she wanted and as soon as she saw the new opening she said it looked Hokay and said put them back the way they were. Keep in mind the house was already framed a fully sheathed with plywood and not an easy change to make.
What was nice we were just a three man crew and once we broke ground we never left until they were handed the keys. We did it all from laying out the house on the lot, forming and pouring the stemwalls, the framing, the inside finish work, including hanging all of the doors, hand cutting in all of the hinges, knobs and lock sets and the list goes. Including all of the outside concrete flat work. The typical job would take around eighteen months and we were there everyday from the start to finish.
What was nice we were just a three man crew and once we broke ground we never left until they were handed the keys. We did it all from laying out the house on the lot, forming and pouring the stemwalls, the framing, the inside finish work, including hanging all of the doors, hand cutting in all of the hinges, knobs and lock sets and the list goes. Including all of the outside concrete flat work. The typical job would take around eighteen months and we were there everyday from the start to finish.
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Couple yrs ago we were pouring a retaining wall on a large home. One section faced the pool, 65ft long X 10ft tall of wall showing, enormous footings..... over $30,000.00
We set down with the owners and drew up a bunch of "cant strip" joints, crack control etc..... and they said "GO"
We poured it, and she said "NO"
Me, Husband, Wife, and General Contractor standing there......
GC says OK, so it's coming out?
"yep"
"Can I SHOOT IT?"
"yep"
416Wby, 416 Taylor, 375....... He was dead serious, brought in his collection of big guns......... He had some fun.......
He also whacked it with a 30-06, just for comparison.
Then tore it out and we repoured it. We got paid twice.
We set down with the owners and drew up a bunch of "cant strip" joints, crack control etc..... and they said "GO"
We poured it, and she said "NO"
Me, Husband, Wife, and General Contractor standing there......
GC says OK, so it's coming out?
"yep"
"Can I SHOOT IT?"
"yep"
416Wby, 416 Taylor, 375....... He was dead serious, brought in his collection of big guns......... He had some fun.......
He also whacked it with a 30-06, just for comparison.
Then tore it out and we repoured it. We got paid twice.
Al, I greatly appreciate your videos and the time it takes to do it. On your Gordy sequence you have some out-of-round stuff with the fireform barrel. Can you talk about the weirdness one gets when the bushing spins, then catches, then spins.....
I’ve done experiments with spinning bushings and captive bushings. They aren’t necessarily round or ground perfectly......
Thoughts..
I’ve done experiments with spinning bushings and captive bushings. They aren’t necessarily round or ground perfectly......
Thoughts..