g 709 grizzly lathe

R

rookeybr

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does anyone have one i do and cant figure out thread cuts. grizzly is not sure because its such a new model lathe .I follow chart and first cut looks good second cut okay third cut s in between .I have gears set to chart fcty 2 engage on 1 everytime. this is for 1-18 thread
 
Do you have a thread indicator dial? On most lathes for even amount threads you can restart threading once the indicator reads on a whole number.If it is an odd thread such as 3/4-11 you restart the threading when the dial hits a whole odd number.I hope this helps.
 
threading

I forgot to tell you that if you pick say the #3 on your threading dial ,you always engage on this number till you are done threading the particular piece.
 
OK, the man clearly states that he engages on 1 every time.......

The owner of Grizzly, Shiraz Balolia comes on here now and again. I don't know enough about it to help you but someone perhaps will.

Maybe you can give us more info.

Are you feeding straight in or do you have your compound jacked over to just under 30 degrees?

al
 
Did your lathe come with extra gears? I had exactly the same results on my used Taiwan lathe until I got the correct gears installed in the correct order. Wouldn't hurt to check out the threading gear configuration.
 
still not working all gears in correct order can't make smooth cut also using warner hi speed threading tool and cutting tool
 
If you would take more time to write a detailed and well punctuated post it would be easier for us to help you. Carefully note if your pointer lines up properly when you engage. Adding your own indicating mark with a black marker will likely be much easier to see. If the marks are poor you may not be engaging correctly because of the marks.
 
Grizzly 709

I have heard of some earlier models from Grizzly that were shipped with the wrong gear installed on the threading dial which made it impossible to cut US threads unless the half nut stayed engaged. I don't know how likely this is to be the cause of the problem. Many of the Chinese lathes have the reference numbers on the compound feed backwards so that when you need 29degrees you will actually set your compound to 61 degrees. It sounds ridiculous, but the compound needs to be set at 29 degrees from the zero position when zero is with the compound perpendicular to the workpiece, inline with the cross feed. Some of the other posts about chambering, threading, etc have pictures attached that you may be able to refer to if you have any doubt. If you could post a picture of your set up, we might spot your problem.

A buddy of mine just had a 709 delivered this week and I will be helping him get started with it as soon as he gets it set up and wired. If we encounter any gearing problems, I will post on the subject.

Scott Roeder
 
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Having had the same problem with Chinese lathes, I agree with the folks who advise to check 29 degrees is in the correct compound position - I had to layout and make a mark on my carriage to indicate the proper angle. Also, check the large center feed gear (128 tooth on most) to ensure the correct adapter gear between metric and US threads is in the right position. I am just repeating what has already been stated, but both these issues can cause the problem you are having. Scott H
 
Scott,

I've got this same lathe and have been working through several issues... You might suggest to your friend that, while getting set up, to flush out the headstock gear case before even running it. (The headstock gear cover is very easy to remove) I didn't do that and just got done changing out the two spindle bearings, which were quite scored.. Sadly, still quite a bit of grinding noise and vibration present.

The Grizzly tech guys have been very nice...but....

Chip
 
Cwc

Did you have problems threading ?I did brake in as book said to and drained headstock oil . Just went and turned compound to 61 . It looks to be on to much of angle to right of work piece.
 
Well, the one thing I didn't have a problem with was the threading...<G> The compound on the 61 drg mark (Well, no "mark", but you know what I mean) is right, that will give you about 29 drg from the work. And just to be sure here, start with the compound aligned with the cross slide, then swing it so the tool post end is going left and the compound crank end is going right. Line up the mark, which should be on the left side of the compound, to a point you think is about 1 degree beyond the 60 mark.

Chip
 
CWC THANKS for info. Im going to order a new thread dial gear monday . That should fix my problem.
 
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I make a fair number of these little .22 barrels from Lothar Walther match blanks. The small shoulder and tenon diameters / lengths are critical dimensions. The threads are .375 X 40 and bottom out on a shoulder in the barrel locking block. I make these on a Grizzly 0509G 16 X 40. It does a beautiful job and I can finish ODs in the tenths, as well as the length. It cuts very nice threads. I do not cut threads with carbide.. These were cut with HS. I have had this lathe for two years and I could not be happier.. Smooth; quiet; accurate; and powerful...
Jerry Keefer
 
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By the way I pulled the file on the South Bend lathe I bought for our shop in 1998. It cost 14,956.00 for a 10" tool room lathe on the south bend bench a two speed motor a six inch Cushman chuck and a royal live center. I bought the South Bend because it was the only small AMERICAN IRON I could find. When our shop was set up in 1979 it had been outfitted with LeBlonde lathes, a 15" 18" and a 24". A Bridgeport Series 2, verticle mill. Cinncinati Horizontal with a vertilcle head. In any case 32 years of hard industrial use the AMERICAN IRON is still tight and accurate. We dont use the South Bend much just the small stuff but there is no dout that it will be there untill they close the Mill.
Henry Neale
 
Jerry Keefer said:
http://
I make a fair number of these little .22 barrels from Lothar Walther match blanks. The small shoulder and tenon diameters / lengths are critical dimensions. The threads are .375 X 40 and bottom out on a shoulder in the barrel locking block. I make these on a Grizzly 0509G 16 X 40. It does a beautiful job and I can finish ODs in the tenths, as well as the length. It cuts very nice threads. I do not cut threads with carbide.. These were cut with HS. I have had this lathe for two years and I could not be happier.. Smooth; quiet; accurate; and powerful...
Jerry Keefer
Click to expand...

Jerry just out of interest what are these barrels used for? and how are these barrels setup for this work to be carried out?......Thanks Ian
 
Hello Ian;
The barrel replaces the stock barrel in a Marvel Precision .22 conversion for a 1911. These are used for precision bullseye competition. The blank is turned between centers first, then placed in a spider and zeroed on both axis'. Then the tenon is machined/threaded and the chamber is reamed to insure concentricity.....The Lothar Walther barrels have proven to be excellent and are 8 groove.
 
I have a friend that just purchased the same G0709 Grizzly lathe. I find the machine a great value for the money. We are having the exact same issue threading. If you set the machine up using the gears on the chart and thread at 16 TPI where you can use 1-8 on the thread dial it works great. If you set the machine up for 18 TPI where you can use 1,3 on the thread dial it will not pick up the thread and cuts between the threads. We were using 1 everytime on the thread dial just to make sure. We double checked the gear diagram and confirmed that all is as indicated. Went back to 16 TPI and all is fine. This machine definately has something wrong with the thread dial or gear diagram. Nice machine but we need to get this figured out. I am looking at purchasing this same lathe but I want to see a resolution to this problem before I purchase. The thread dial has a 24 tooth gear if memory serves. Let us know if the new thread gear fixes the problem and how many teeth it has.

Kris Whitman
 
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