Delrin Jags:

Pete Wass

Well-known member
I saw, some time back, an article for Delrin Jags somewhere but can't seem to find anything about them in any of the searches. Anybody else heard of these Jags?

Thanks,

Pete Wass
 
I made these jag's for myself as bore cleaners such as Sweets would eat my brass jags' away. Another plus! they are easy to make.
 
Anyone have any problems with the threads wearing out or pulling loose over time?
 
Hi Guys,

I just wanted to say thanks to all of you that helped steer Pete in our direction, and Virg, thank you for the kind words about our products. Oh, and Vern, if you should decide to give our products a try I'm quite sure you'll be more than happy with the quality of the threads along with their longevity.

Good Shooting!
Don ...BRBCP ...
 
FB, if you are happy with your system then don't sweat it. I personally have been using nylon jags for my 30BR that are left over from ancient cleaning kits. For my rimfire I have shortened one of the Dewey brass jags. Most brass jags are far too long imo.

I also believe in Dewey coated rods. Everybody has to satisfy their own ideas they have developed through prior experience. These ideas will rarely be universally accepted.
 
Hi Guys,

I just wanted to say thanks to all of you that helped steer Pete in our direction, and Virg, thank you for the kind words about our products. Oh, and Vern, if you should decide to give our products a try I'm quite sure you'll be more than happy with the quality of the threads along with their longevity.

Good Shooting!
Don ...BRBCP ...

I didn't notice any .22 jags on your site. Do you make them?

Thanks,

Pete
 
FB, if you are happy with your system then don't sweat it. I personally have been using nylon jags for my 30BR that are left over from ancient cleaning kits. For my rimfire I have shortened one of the Dewey brass jags. Most brass jags are far too long imo.

I also believe in Dewey coated rods. Everybody has to satisfy their own ideas they have developed through prior experience. These ideas will rarely be universally accepted.



I'm with you 100%. One of the Gunsmiths I use sez he loves guys who use SS rods. Give him lots of work. He recommends coated rods. I also noticed the other Gunsmith I use uses Coated Rods also.

I use to use Eliminator as a final cleaning for my barrels. I used a SS rod and a Nylon Jag for it so that there was no brass to cause any fales color. At the time I only had a .22 SS rod so I used a 6MM rod guide I have. That worked pretty well in terms of keeping the rod off the barrel and from sagging.

The problem with our system is nearly all cleaning Guide Inserts are too generous in rod clearance. Why is there any need to have more then.002' or .003" in a rod insert? Much more than that and a 44" rod will sag at the crown, which leads to damage over a period of time. It isn't so much the rod sagging it is the angle of droop caused by the insert having too much clearance.

Another issue is the length of the rod inserts. Only a few have inserts long enough to support rods properly, from those I have seen. I have never undrstood why folks were satisfied with that??? If I see these, what I consider faults, certainly others see them as well. Lets discuss it if so and perhaps some attention will be directed toward a solution. Those who make rod guides surely can bore and/or ream smaller holes, one would thing, No?
 
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I didn't notice any .22 jags on your site. Do you make them?

Thanks,

Pete

Hi Pete,

The jags that I make for 22 rim fire and 22 center fire are one and the same. They are referred to as .223 on both the jag page and the pricing page. Customers have been very pleased with the fit in either bore. Our jags, when used with the proper patch, are actually slightly compressed while passing through the bore. We like to believe that's the reason they work so well. German Salazar probably stated it best by saying "they truly get the patch working to scavenge the grooves of all the residue possible" in his article on our products.

Thanks for inquiring!
Don ... BRBCP ...
 
I'm with you 100%. One of the Gunsmiths I use sez he loves guys who use SS rods. Give him lots of work. He recommends coated rods. I also noticed the other Gunsmith I use uses Coated Rods also.

I use to use Eliminator as a final cleaning for my barrels. I used a SS rod and a Nylon Jag for it so that there was no brass to cause any fales color. At the time I only had a .22 SS rod so I used a 6MM rod guide I have. That worked pretty well in terms of keeping the rod off the barrel and from sagging.

The problem with our system is nearly all cleaning Guide Inserts are too generous in rod clearance. Why is there any need to have more then.002' or .003" in a rod insert? Much more than that and a 44" rod will sag at the crown, which leads to damage over a period of time. It isn't so much the rod sagging it is the angle of droop caused by the insert having too much clearance.

Another issue is the length of the rod inserts. Only a few have inserts long enough to support rods properly, from those I have seen. I have never undrstood why folks were satisfied with that??? If I see these, what I consider faults, certainly others see them as well. Lets discuss it if so and perhaps some attention will be directed toward a solution. Those who make rod guides surely can bore and/or ream smaller holes, one would thing, No?

Hi again Pete,

I have made a number of rod guides or chamber guides as I call them for single shot falling block type actions. I'm also in the process of designing and making a two piece rod guide for Anschutz model 54 single shot rim fire actions in 22 caliber. The problem with making a two piece rod guide for a plastic coated Dewey rod, that would fit the rod the way you are talking about, is in the inconsistencies of the thickness of the plastic coating on the rod itself over it's length.

I'm not saying that Dewey rods are bad rods, but just give this a try. Take your best Dewey rod or borrow a new one, take a good mike and start measuring about every 4" over it's length. You are probably going to find variations of .002" to .003" in diameter in numerous spots over the length of the rod. You can not make a two piece rod guide with a usable length that will support that rod the way you would like it to and still allow the rod to pass through it.

If you truly sit down and do the math, depending on the relationship of the rod diameter to the diameter of the bore you are passing it down, you will find a .001" fit between a 4" long supporting tube on your rod guide and the best made stainless steel rod will still not support that rod at the end of the barrel, depending on the length of the barrel naturally. The only way to truly support the rod from one end to the other is with a good rod guide and the jags that I make. By using those two items what the rod is made out of becomes irrelevant along as it is straight, stiff enough, and of a small enough diameter to allow the bore guide and my bore riding jags to keep it from ever touching the bore. Example: .185" diameter rods used in .224 bores

For those of you that may not know about my jags yet please find the "Best Bore Guide" thread on this "Centerfire Benchrest" forum to read more if you are interested.

In my humble opinion,
Don ... BRBCP ...
 
Don instead of trying to find a thread can you tell us where the website link is located in the advertising section?
 
Thank You Don:

Hi again Pete,

I have made a number of rod guides or chamber guides as I call them for single shot falling block type actions. I'm also in the process of designing and making a two piece rod guide for Anschutz model 54 single shot rim fire actions in 22 caliber. The problem with making a two piece rod guide for a plastic coated Dewey rod, that would fit the rod the way you are talking about, is in the inconsistencies of the thickness of the plastic coating on the rod itself over it's length.

I'm not saying that Dewey rods are bad rods, but just give this a try. Take your best Dewey rod or borrow a new one, take a good mike and start measuring about every 4" over it's length. You are probably going to find variations of .002" to .003" in diameter in numerous spots over the length of the rod. You can not make a two piece rod guide with a usable length that will support that rod the way you would like it to and still allow the rod to pass through it.

If you truly sit down and do the math, depending on the relationship of the rod diameter to the diameter of the bore you are passing it down, you will find a .001" fit between a 4" long supporting tube on your rod guide and the best made stainless steel rod will still not support that rod at the end of the barrel, depending on the length of the barrel naturally. The only way to truly support the rod from one end to the other is with a good rod guide and the jags that I make. By using those two items what the rod is made out of becomes irrelevant along as it is straight, stiff enough, and of a small enough diameter to allow the bore guide and my bore riding jags to keep it from ever touching the bore. Example: .185" diameter rods used in .224 bores

For those of you that may not know about my jags yet please find the "Best Bore Guide" thread on this "Centerfire Benchrest" forum to read more if you are interested.

In my humble opinion,
Don ... BRBCP ...

I had not miked my rods their entire length but am not surprised that they vary a bit. I didn't actually know how much clearance would be necessary but was fishing to find out.

What has transpired here is exactly what I had hoped for. Your explanation of this subject is what I was looking for.

The only problem I have now is deciding which way I want to go with your products. Thank you for your posts here.

Pete
 
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Hi Vern,

To tell you the truth I have been so busy that I haven't even taken the time to try and figure out how to add the link to the advertising section. When something about our products gets brought up on a shooting forum for the first time it seems like I go from 4 weeks behind to 8 to 10 weeks behind pretty quick. I also end up many nights to the wee hours of the morning answering all the new emails that a comment can generate.

Don't get me wrong. I'm not complaining, but we are very busy. By the way, when I say "we" I'm referring to my better half, my wife Deb. This is not a big machine shop operation with modern CNC equipment. Everything is made one at a time on an old 5900 series Clausing lathe with a very accurate Hardinge compound on it. I tried contracting the more popular calibers out to shops last year to help me keep up and to try and keep the prices down on the products. Shops with even the latest Swiss screw machines found it very difficult to hold our tolerances. After our inspections sometimes 50% of an order would have to get sent back.Turning plastic in the lengths and diameters that we work with while trying to hold dimensions and quality of finish can be very demanding. I'm still looking for a shop willing to take on the work at a price that would work for everybody, but have pretty much resolved myself into doing it all at this time.

For now, here is the link to our web site: http://www.boreriderbarrelcareproducts.com/
You can also get to the home page by clicking on my name to view my profile page.

Thanks for asking Vern!
Till next time!
Don ...BRBCP ...
 
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