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A round headed screw in a battery drill and valve grinding compound works just fine, too--screw head should be about 1.5-2x bore size.
I can tell you what I did one boring Sunday afternoon. I was shooting the ppc there at home, and I started thinking about crowns, and there importance on accuracy. My rifle that afternoon was shooting extremely well even though the barrel had 7-800 rounds on it. none the less I decided to give the crown a re-sharpen. I wanted to see if a sharp crown would improve the group sizing. I knew it might be hard to see any real improvement as the rifle was shooting solid .200's anyway. Long story short. when I went into my machine shop, I noticed dad had the 3 jaw chuck on the lathe. My big machine is a 16" and the chucks are heavy, so I didn't feel like changing the darn chuck for 10 min of work. I wasn't even going to mess with the crown after seeing the 3 jaw on the lathe, but something hit me, and I could help but wonder. could I crown this barrel without indicating anything in??? I thought what the heck!! I chucked the barrel up in the 3 jaw the best I could, and faced the crown with a sharp ground HSS tool bit I have. After I re cut the crown, I checked the run out. My barrel was out .007 TIR . I didn't know what to expect? I took the barrel back over to my range, and screwed the barrel back on my rifle. With the same load I had been shooting before the re-crown I shot 5, 4 shot groups. average group size was a .208. I still indicate all my crown in like we should, but I cant help but really wonder if this is really needed.
I don't want to draw any major conclusions from one experiment, but the results from my "boring" sunday afternoon, we really interesting. Lee
A friend bought the wrong twist in a barrel (engineers always know best!) so he decided to cut off six inches just to see the velocity difference. Cut it off with a hack saw and crowned it with a counter sink in a battery drill. I don't remember what the velocity difference was but it really did shoot better.