coated vs steel bushings

T

tiny68

Member
Are coated neck sizing bushings worth the extra $8-10 bucks? I can't seem to find Redding 0.328, 0.329, and 0.330 coated in stock in anywhere. What do you guys use?

Tiny
 
You don't have to use a lube with the nitrided bushings. I think it is a little harder on the brass though. I've never seen any difference in accuracy either way. Oddly enough I think my necks got thin faster when using the steel bushing with lube than when using a nitrided bushing w/o lube. It MAY have been from not getting all the lube off before firing. I don't know. Maybe someone else can weigh in. The decreased work involved is worth the extra money. Redding seems to nitride after they measure and the coating actually adds about a half a thousandth so order your bushing accordingly.
 
The coated bushings are much better...

than any steel one's I have come across. I have never found a steel bushing that doesn't leave marks and scratches on my brass necks.

The coated bushings leave no marks whether you use lube or not.

The best bushings, by far, are the good carbide one's. They actually polish the brass necks. This makes the brass last longer.

Saving a few bucks buying the cheapest bushings is false economy.

Dick Wright
 
I really feel that...

anytime you rub metal against metal, it's a good idea to have a little lube.

Next I suppose someone is going to tell me that carbide is not a metal. Actually it's a mix of tungsten and cobalt, 94 to 6 percent in the most often used grade.

Dick
 
FBecigneul said:
Are you guys asking about and saying you aren't using lube at all when FL sizing your brass? We use carbide neck bushings but the dies are steel and because of that we lube, wax actually. You can't help but get some wax on the neck and why wouldn't you?
Click to expand...

No, just when neck sizing.
 
I clean the outside of my necks with 0000 steel wool. Steel wool has a light oil in it to keep it from rusting. I guess that it gives a little lubrication. That is all that my 6PPC cases get when sizing. I have been able to get away with no other lube when FL sizing, after lubing the first few cases with Wax to "season" the die. The handle effort is higher, but nothing bad happens, and my brass "headspace" is very uniform. I use a Harrell die that is a vary close match to my chamber. I could never do this with any of my reguar dies.

As to steel bushings scratching, I had one that did, and I polished it with Iosso and that took care of the problem. After I told a fellow that had posted the same problem how to polish out his burr, he wrote to me that it worked for him as well.
 
Just as an FYI there have been more than a few of the steel ones that were less than coincentric, I have never heard of a nitrited one being anything but spot on.
 
tim said:
Just as an FYI there have been more than a few of the steel ones that were less than coincentric, I have never heard of a nitrited one being anything but spot on.
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Actually it is not the concentricity but the number stamps on the top of the steel bushings, which appear to be applied after machining, that cause the problem.

This does not affect runnout when using Wilson dies because these dies close tolerance index to the outside diameter which is not affect by the stampings on the top.

Harrels, Redding, and others are affected because they do rely upon the top and bottoms of the bushings for proper indexing..............Don
 
What ever happened to the bushings from and outfit called White Tail eng? They were the best bushing I ever found.
 
Tiny ...

I just called Redding at 607-753-3331. They have the .328, .329, and .330 coated bushings in stock. Art
 
That was...

Whitetail Design & Engineering. I retired some time ago and no longer make them. Last I heard Ron Hoehn still had carbide bushings for sale. That isn't current information. You'd have to check with Ron.

Dick
 
Dick Wright said:
Whitetail Design & Engineering. I retired some time ago and no longer make them. Last I heard Ron Hoehn still had carbide bushings for sale. That isn't current information. You'd have to check with Ron.

Dick
Click to expand...

It must have been nice to have retired so young, under 30? Did you retire because you got tired of people at the matches throwing money in your face for your bushings? People approaching you with that desperate look in their wild eyes between relays.

Maybe it was the multi thousands of dollars in inventory you carried in your pants pocket?

They were a vary good product! Best neck bushings I ever used!:)
 
abintx said:
I just called Redding at 607-753-3331. They have the .328, .329, and .330 coated bushings in stock. Art
Click to expand...

Yes they do..... but they are proud of them.... :)

I like the $16-17/bushing much better. But what's an extra few $10 to get a up and running.

This takes me to a different question. Someone told me that Randy Robinett recommended a 0.324 bushing for a 0.330 neck 30BR. That seems what too much. Did I understand him correctly? I usually run under 0.001 or 0.002" on my 22 and 6 stuff.

What neck tension is needed for a 30BR?

tiny
 
Don said:
Actually it is not the concentricity but the number stamps on the top of the steel bushings, which appear to be applied after machining, that cause the problem.

This does not affect runnout when using Wilson dies because these dies close tolerance index to the outside diameter which is not affect by the stampings on the top.

Harrels, Redding, and others are affected because they do rely upon the top and bottoms of the bushings for proper indexing..............Don
Click to expand...

I'm familiar with the term coincentricity, and as to the brand you mentioned... yes it does.
 
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