? chucking up a barrel ?

Al, I agree with Roy, unless the barrel is dead on straight, it is impossible to indicate 4 spots, heck, even three, dead true.

Well, technically you can, if you put the barrel in some type of deflection, which is probably not a good idea.........jackie
 
So far the few I've tried I set up dead center end to end (actually on two of them the outboard was centered up on the lapping bell which probably runs out a little) and THEN I run the rod in on the chamber end. It starts to pick up runout almost immediately.

Yes! I had that happen to me with the first barrel I chambered. I'd obtained and watched Richard Franklins video on chambering (he uses the muzzle breech two point sytem) and a friend had loaned me a range rod to use for centering. I'd also watched the Gordy Gritter's video and ordered a Grizzly rod. The barrel was from my Savage .22-250 LRPV. It had the throat shot out of it (looked like a dry lake bed).

I cut the chamber off (removed 2") and rechambered. I set it up in the headstock, centered the muzzle and breech to within .0002, just like Franklin did, which didn't take all that long. Then I put the Grizzly rod in the breech end, ran it in ~2" to the chamber throat and was shocked to see it be out something like .003" (+/- 0.0015), an inch beyond the throat it was off even more. So I aligned it again using the Grizzly rod (a frustrating process the first time - not so much now) and watched in amazement as the bore at the muzzle ran in a circle of about 0.050" (as I recall, it was surprisingly big). At that point the light went on, I knew the muzzle breech 2 point system was flawed, so I've never used it.

Interestingly enough, the indicator rod showed centered within 0.0005" from the breech face to an inch beyond the throat which told me that ~3" of bore was relatively straight, just not aligned with the barrel. I didn't drill and bore, just cut the chamber, and it came out running almost dead true with out being oversize, probably because that bore segment was pretty straight, just not aligned with the the virtual axis from breech to muzzle.

Fitch
 
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If you want the barrel to run "true" you can not use the existing centers it comes from the barrel shop with. Too much has happened to that piece of material since those centers were cut. And that is a fact!
 
).

I cut the chamber off (removed 2") and rechambered. I set it up in the headstock, centered the muzzle and breech to within .0002, just like Franklin did, which didn't take all that long. Then I put the Grizzly rod in the breech end, ran it in ~2" to the chamber throat and was shocked to see it be out something like .003" (+/- 0.0015), an inch beyond the throat it was off even more. So I aligned it again using the Grizzly rod (a frustrating process the first time - not so much now) and watched in amazement as the bore at the muzzle ran in a circle of about 0.050" (as I recall, it was surprisingly big). At that point the light went on, I knew the muzzle breech 2 point system was flawed, so I've never used it.


Fitch
Now you are learning something Fitch. The only way you can get that curved barrel set up straight enough to cut a benchrest quality chamber that merges the bullet smoothly into the bore AND points the bullets exit point toward the desired impact point is to align the muzzle bore with the neck/leade/freebore. Then generate that third point, the point where the reamer body enters and is guided by, is to bore the irregularity and remove that runout you just discovered.
 
muzzle ran in a circle of about 0.050"

When you cut the shoulder on the barrel it will not be perpendiculr to the axis of the bore......correct? So this means the muzzle is now 0.050" away from the centerline of the rifle when the barrel is threaded into the action? So it will need to be indexed either up or down perfectly or you'll have all kinds of angular error when shooing from one distance to another?
Am I understanding this correctly? If so, how do you index this barrel perfectly so the bullet leaves the bore in perfect L/R alignment with the scope?

Thanks in advance............
 
Am I understanding this correctly? If so, how do you index this barrel perfectly so the bullet leaves the bore in perfect L/R alignment with the scope?

Thanks in advance............

My suggested solution would be to chamber the barrel to where indexing is not required!!!!
 
When you cut the shoulder on the barrel it will not be perpendiculr to the axis of the bore......correct? So this means the muzzle is now 0.050" away from the centerline of the rifle when the barrel is threaded into the action? So it will need to be indexed either up or down perfectly or you'll have all kinds of angular error when shooing from one distance to another?
Am I understanding this correctly? If so, how do you index this barrel perfectly so the bullet leaves the bore in perfect L/R alignment with the scope?

Thanks in advance............

Thanks for asking the question. You machine and thread the tenon, first. Rotate the lathe spindle and place a piece of tape or a mark on top of the chuck when a range rod in the muzzle is at it's highest point. This may be a trifle fussy to do because sometimes the barrel is moving so much that one has to play with the location of the dial indicator, or use a wide flat foot on it, to find the highest point. Screw the action on the tenon (with the recoil lug if one is supposed to be there). Measure the angle in the direction of rotation between the receiver and the part of the barrel that is pointed up. Do the math based on the tenon thread and remove material from the tenon shoulder to allow the receiver to turn just enough to be level when the barrel is pointed up. It almost takes longer to write this than to do it.

Then proceed to face the tenon to length, do the chambering and set headspace with chamber depth as usual.

I was thinking about the post I made early this AM , that would have been this one:

Yes! I had that happen to me with the first barrel I chambered. I'd obtained and watched Richard Franklins video on chambering (he uses the muzzle breech two point sytem) and a friend had loaned me a range rod to use for centering. I'd also watched the Gordy Gritter's video and ordered a Grizzly rod. The barrel was from my Savage .22-250 LRPV. It had the throat shot out of it (looked like a dry lake bed).

I cut the chamber off (removed 2") and rechambered. I set it up in the headstock, centered the muzzle and breech to within .0002, just like Franklin did, which didn't take all that long. Then I put the Grizzly rod in the breech end, ran it in ~2" to the chamber throat and was shocked to see it be out something like .003" (+/- 0.0015), an inch beyond the throat it was off even more. So I aligned it again using the Grizzly rod (a frustrating process the first time - not so much now) and watched in amazement as the bore at the muzzle ran in a circle of about 0.050" (as I recall, it was surprisingly big). At that point the light went on, I knew the muzzle breech 2 point system was flawed, so I've never used it.

Interestingly enough, the indicator rod showed centered within 0.0005" from the breech face to an inch beyond the throat which told me that ~3" of bore was relatively straight, just not aligned with the barrel. I didn't drill and bore, just cut the chamber, and it came out running almost dead true with out being oversize, probably because that bore segment was pretty straight, just not aligned with the the virtual axis from breech to muzzle.

Right after I made it, my bride finished on the elliptical and it was my turn. While I was churning way doing my 50 minutes (625 calories of dripping went exercise a day) on the elliptical I was thinking about this last post and it occurred to me there were a bunch of things related to it that hadn't occurred to me until right then. So I thought I'd share them.

Warning, what you are about to read is not going to be what some folks want to see, continue and you will see why I say that. That said, I'm trying to further my understanding of this chambering process, and how the techniques relate to achieving the best possible conditions for accuracy. My assumptions are:
  1. The optimum is for the bullet to be perfectly centered in the brass, and perfectly aligned with and concentric to the brass, and, for the bullet to have a perfectly symmetrical entrance to the bore with the bore pointing in the same direction as the bullet is traveling when it leaves the brass.
  2. The optimum at the muzzle is for the bullet to experience perfect symmetry of escaping gas forces when it leaves the muzzle, which is only achieved with the plane of the crown is perfectly orthogonal to the centerline of the bore segment at and just before the crown.
I won't deal with assumption 2 in this post, but it is one of my assumptions. Given these assumptions, I had the following thoughts related to the earlier post.

For completeness, the situation is that the bore in the first 3", and maybe more, was straight within 0.0005" but skewed .003" to .004" with regard to a line from the muzzle to the breech. There are at least two potential contributors to that skew. One is that the barrel itself isn't straight, the other is that the bore wanders around, or both. In this particular case, the barrel very heavy varmint barrel itself is pretty straight and well centred on the ends with regard to the OD, so it was the bore angling off. In the end, for purposes of this discussion, it doesn't actually matter if the skew is caused by the barrel itself being bent (within reason) or the bore being skewed inside the barrel.


So I got to asking my self what this implied and came up with the following conclusions, some of which surprise me:
  1. Case 1: Given: Muzzle and breech centered, floating pusher like the one I use, no drill and prebore.

    Result: The chamber would be directly in line with the bore segment following because the the reamer pilot would make it follow the bore and the floating pusher would let it do that. This would be about perfect for the bullet leaving the brass and entering the bore.

    The barrel tenon, however, would not be concentric with the chamber. The chamber would be skewed with respect to the barrel tenon by the amount the bore was skewed. The tenon itself would be concentric with a virtual center between the muzzle and the breech. With the way bolts flop around I'm not sure this lack of concentricity of the chamber and tenon would matter, but the bullet would have a good a chance for a favorable bore entry as it ever can have.
  2. Case 2: Given: Muzzle and breech centered, floating pusher used, drill and prebore.

    Result: The chamber is concentric with the barrel tenon, and centered on the throat, but not aligned with the bore at and beyond the throat. The bore after the chamber is still skewed with regard to the alignment centerline from muzzle to breech, the chamber and tenon are concentric with it, but the bullet has to make an abrupt change of direction upon entering the bore because the bore isn't pointed in the same direction the bullet is going.

    Conclusion, in this case it would have been better to not prebore if one uses the muzle breech alignment approach. I think this may be true more often than not if a floating pusher is used.
    |
  3. Case 3: Given: Bore segment in the first 3 inches of the breech is aligned with the lathe centerline, floating pusher is used, no drill and prebore.

    Result: The chamber is aligned with the bore segment immediately following the throat. The barrel tenon is concentric with the chamber. The muzzle needs to be indexed to point up in the vertical plane as part of the chambering process.

    Conclusion: This results in the chamber and tenon being concentric and aligned with the bore segment immediately following the throat which should give the most favorable conditions for maximizing accuracy.
  4. Case 4: Given: Bore segment in the first 3 inches of the breech is aligned with the lathe centerline, floating pusher is used, drill and prebore.

    Result: Same as case 3.

    Conclusion: Same as case 3.
Near as I can tell, drilling and preboring is either of limited value or detrimental if the bore segment in the breech is straight, even though it is skewed, if a floating pusher is used. As case 2 shows, drilling and preboring make things worse if the muzzle and breech are the alignment points and the bore segment following the throat is skewed with respect to the muzzle breech centerline, which it will almost always be to at least some extent. This is because drilling and preboring established a third point on a line that is not aligned with the bore following the throat, it is only aligned with the (soon to be slightly oval) entrance to the throat.
I haven't attached any indispensible ego to this, but it made sense to me when I thought about it, and it still does now.

Fitch
 
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So, your threads and tenon shoulder are now out of square with each other.

That is, if I am reading your post correctly. You threaded the tenon, (so you could screw the action on), and then disturbed the setup in order to get the barrel pointed in the correct direction. ........jackie
 
Fitch,
I think you are drinking somebody's KoolAid. Your wonder rod and indicating method will not straighten a barrel. You didn't use those words, but that is what you are saying. Answer the question that I asked TRA. If you don't drill and prebore your bushing is going to follow a crooked bore. Now if the bore is perfect for 2.5" on a ppc it will work. If it is that straight an indicating pin would be all you would need.
Butch
 
Fitch,
I think you are drinking somebody's KoolAid. Your wonder rod and indicating method will not straighten a barrel. You didn't use those words, but that is what you are saying.

No, that is not what I'm saying.

I am saying that how one chooses to align the barrel in the headstock will have an effect on the outcome (duh!), and then to describe that outcome for the relatively simple situation I found in my barrel. Case 2 where drilling and preboring makes things worse was a surprise to me. Hadn't expected to find that. Nobody that uses the pin in the muzzle and the pin in the breech want's to hear that there are times that, having done that, one can make the chamber worse by drilling and preboring, but that is in fact the situation in case 2. If one aligns the breech bore segment and allows the muzzle to go where ever it needs to for that to happen, drilling and preboring may help, but it won't make things worse.

Curved, and curved + skewed, bore segments are a bit of a nightmare and more than I want to discuss other than to say that drilling and preboring is probably the only way to avoid an oversize chamber if the bore segment from the breech to just beyond the chamber throat is curved, regardless of how one aligns the barrel in the headstock or what kind of pusher is used.

Answer the question that I asked TRA. If you don't drill and prebore your bushing is going to follow a crooked bore. Now if the bore is perfect for 2.5" on a ppc it will work. If it is that straight an indicating pin would be all you would need.
Butch

If the bore is straight from the breech to the throat and a bit beyond, and that straight segment isn't skewed beyond reason, an indicating pin at each end is all that's needed if one has a floating reamer pusher. That's exactly case 1 in my post.

I didn't discuss a curved bore segment because I didn't have one. If there is a curved bore segment, and one doesn't drill and prebore, the reamer will absolutely follow the bore and the chamber will be oversize whether or not a floating pusher is used. If it doesn't curve, it won't if a floating pusher is used.

Fitch
 
Fitch, you're a real thinker. :)

I'm enjoying this discussion but I'm going to stay out of it. You've got input from some of the best in the business. Good stuff here! :D

Gene Beggs
 
Here Is Something To Think About

As most know, our "bread and butter" item at my Shop are the machining of long, limber shafts, that is, long in relation to diameter. For instance, 8 inch diameter at 30 ft in length.

When chucking up long limber items such as this, you have to take great care so that you do not induce deflection in the shaft, that will show up as runnout.

I know that the vast majority of Gunsmiths who chamber in the headstock use some type of spider on one end, and either a spider or chuck on the other.

Here is my question. When you are cinching down on the jaws or screws in order to move the barrel, how do you know that you are not actually bending the barrel rather than it pivoting in the other set of jaws, or screws.

I ask this because even though you might think a barrel is a pretty stiff item, in reality, it is not. Just lay each end in a set of v-blocks, place an indictor in the middle, and gently press down. You will see pretty quick that in fact, it is quite limber.

The only rerason I ask this is like I said, I have a lot of experince dealing with long skinny things that have to be machined truly straight. I have seen pictures of quite a few set-ups that Gunsmiths use, and I woulds bet good money that many are actually chambering their barrels with the barrel in deflection.

Of course, I know every one uses some type of soft jaws, but the gripping power require to do the required machine work with nothing moving during the various procedures just might be stronger than what it takes to bow the barrel.

Since I can do barrels either way, (I have a Monarch EE and a Pratt& Whitney), I choose to do them the way I do for many reasons, the possibility of machining the barrel while it is in deflection being just one...........jackie
 
So, your threads and tenon shoulder are now out of square with each other.

That is, if I am reading your post correctly. You threaded the tenon, (so you could screw the action on), and then disturbed the setup in order to get the barrel pointed in the correct direction. ........jackie

No. But maybe my explanation isn't clear, so I'll try again.

The barrel is aligned in the headstock using Gordy's method. The tenon turned and threaded. The chuck is marked with tape on top when the muzzle is pointed up, or is at it's highest point in the lathe spindle's rotation. The action is screwed on. The angle in the direction of rotation that tightens the action is measured to determine how much farther the action would need to rotate to be aligned right side up with the tape (muzzle) up. The action is removed. With out disturbing the barrel in any way, one simply cuts enough additional tenon length to allow the additional rotation.

The setup of the barrel in the headstock is not disturbed in any way.

If that doesn't clear it up, watch Gordy's video - he does this exact thing in the video.

Fitch
 
As most know, our "bread and butter" item at my Shop are the machining of long, limber shafts, that is, long in relation to diameter. For instance, 8 inch diameter at 30 ft in length.

When chucking up long limber items such as this, you have to take great care so that you do not induce deflection in the shaft, that will show up as runnout.

I know that the vast majority of Gunsmiths who chamber in the headstock use some type of spider on one end, and either a spider or chuck on the other.

Here is my question. When you are cinching down on the jaws or screws in order to move the barrel, how do you know that you are not actually bending the barrel rather than it pivoting in the other set of jaws, or screws.

I ask this because even though you might think a barrel is a pretty stiff item, in reality, it is not. Just lay each end in a set of v-blocks, place an indictor in the middle, and gently press down. You will see pretty quick that in fact, it is quite limber.

The only rerason I ask this is like I said, I have a lot of experince dealing with long skinny things that have to be machined truly straight. I have seen pictures of quite a few set-ups that Gunsmiths use, and I woulds bet good money that many are actually chambering their barrels with the barrel in deflection.

Of course, I know every one uses some type of soft jaws, but the gripping power require to do the required machine work with nothing moving during the various procedures just might be stronger than what it takes to bow the barrel.

Since I can do barrels either way, (I have a Monarch EE and a Pratt& Whitney), I choose to do them the way I do for many reasons, the possibility of machining the barrel while it is in deflection being just one...........jackie

Well said. I'd guess there is almost as much art to managing shafts like that as their is science. Definitely no place for novices.

The other thing is how flexible things one normally thinks of as rigid can be. When I first got my precision level, I set it on my work bench, and was pleased to see it was "only" about half a bubble out of level, so I leaned on the bench to see better and the bubble went clear to the opposite end! Right up until then I'd thought of it as a stiff bench as work benches go. Wrong.

Fitch

When indicating a barrel, if I lean on the headstock I can change the reading 0.0005 with no problem at all.
 
Fitch, as with all things in Machine Shop Work, the real truth is in the final inspection. Either it is correct, or it isn't.

They don't pay us for things that are not correct. That fact alone inspires us to strive for excellence........jackie
 
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Fitch,
After using pins to get my initial setup I predrill. I can reach in with my Mitutoyo indicator to the throat area and indicate the grooves at the throat. I taperbore to that indicated point. It leaves me .050 short of the shoulder and is within .010-.030 of diameter. I use a short stiff carbide boring bar. I finish with my reamer and a loose bushing. I do not want the bushing to affect the travel of the reamer. I want the reamer to follow the bored hole. The bore is not oblong at the throat as it has just been indicated and checked after reaming. I use a pusher. Now we have 3 points in alignment. Doing it this way the base of your cartridge is coaxial to the throat and the crown. I use a cathead on both ends 0f the headstock. No jaws affecting the barrel.
Butch
 
Al, you are just about ready to get into the Propellar Shaft Business.

Yes, we do a lot of shaft repair without the tailstock even used. (that is how you machine a 35 foot shaft in a 32 foot long machine).

For new construction, you normally do chuck it up and use the tailstock although we do complete, brand new shafts by never putting a center in either end. It's called "double ending".

One big problem you have to solve is how do you initially get a round spot on a out of the mill forging. We use large 'spiders' to run the shaft on in order to claim true spots.

But even then, if you have the thing running in deflection, it will not turn round. When we chuck up a shaft, we normally use round pieces of 4140, any where from 1/2 inch to one inch diameter, depeding on the shaft size, to go between the chuck jaws and the piece. By carefull placement of these, and playing with the jaws, you can get a piece of shafting running the way it should.

You also have to compensate for the sag. Remember, if that piece is sagging in the middle, as you roll it, it will actually be trying to change position in the chuck jaws as it turns. All of our long bed lathes have roller rest that we can set for the exact diameter so that the shaft is sitting in the lathe in a reasonable level state.

A lot of this is just knowing how to do it. Of course, even if after everything is done, we have a little too much runnout, we can straighten it. Of course, that is an art in its self. We have special "straightenning rigs" of our own design that allows us to precision straighten any mild steel shaft up to about 12 inches in diameter. Our largest rig has a 750 ton hydraulic ram. That is serious tonnage.

One of our big money makers is straightenning shafts that, except for being bent in service, are ok. A vessel might simply get windbound, get into the bank, and bend a shaft to the extent that it has to be taken out and straightenned. We are one of the few shops on the Gulf Coast that can precision straighten large propellar shafts without damaging anything of consequence. Often a shaft will show up, we will chuck it up, straighten it, send it out, doing nothing else to it. It's money in the bank......jackie
 
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With the action in hand you can thread the tenon and cut your extractor clearances and then screw the action on and off of your setup, in the lathe. This is the easiest way to time a barrel if you so choose. You never remove the setup. And you cut the chamber last. If you screw up the chamber and get it too deep you have to trim the tenon and shoulder which re-indexes the carefully timed barrel. So I've got threaded stops on my tailstock quill, a home ade reamer stop..... and I run against a dial indicator for depth. I TRY not to bugger up the depth!

With a glue-in it's much more difficult.

The whole timing/indexing thing is just tough for glue-ins. What I did was make an adjustable threaded sleeve like the front action ring. An adjustable "fake action."

al

Al,
Couldn't you just buy(for example, if it's a Panda action) the steel insert from Kelby's and use the insert on the barrel chucked up in the lathe to do your measuring? That would appear to be easier than screwing on a glued in action on the barrel that's chucked in the lathe.

Best,
Dan Batko

"Where are we going and why am I in this basket?"
 
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