Checkering

R

rain164845

Guest
Does anyone know what checkering tool I should use to clean up the checkering on my CZ 452 stock? I am thinking one of the single cutter designs, but I don't know if the 60 or 90 degree option would be more appropriate. The borders are curved, should I be considering the short (more maneuverable) tools, or the longer ones?
Thanks!
Joe
 
First start with a good book that explains checkering. You will also want a good solid way to hold the stock.
 
I guess I should explain that I'm not starting from scratch. I just refinished the stock and want to get the old finish out of the checkering and sharpen it up. I was going to use stripper and a toothbrush, but it didn't touch this finish, so I had to sand the finish off of the stock.
 
I have a 452 special I refinished, and I found that the citrus stripper worked, you just had to leave it on about three times what the can said!:eek: As for the checkering I scrubbed it out with a stripping brush. As I said you don't get in a hurry with there(CZ) finish! But it will come off! Doug
 
I've used a stripper called "Rock Miracle" to strip Browning epoxy finishes. It's taken off every finish I've seen, but it's solvent based, not citrus based, so I use solvent with a tooth brush to clean out the checkering after stripping.

Anyway, I find a single line 90 degree tool good for cleaning up checkering after stripping.
Regards, Ron
 
Joe......The checkering of the CZ452 stock may have METRIC spacing (American tools are Lines per INCH), so you would be right to use a single line,90*tool. However, use a long single line tool and start from the center of the pattern and as you near the curved border switch to a shorter tool. Do not be too aggressive in recutting the existing checkering because you might go too deep....To final finish use a 90* FINE cutter tool. Remember...don't rush the job. Midway has 2 pages of checkering tools & cutters. Good Luck!

Ted
 
Dunno if things changed in the latter years, but every 452 I've ever seen had the checkering done after finishing, meaning the checkering was bare unsealed wood. First thing I'd do with a new rifle was work in a drop or two of trueoil with a fine plastic bristle brush. Never owned one of the laser checkered models, so's I'm unaware how they're finished.
 
Back
Top