Charles Greer

L

Lynn

Registered User
Charles I got a camera and Edlongrange got me posting pictures so here are the rear tracking rails I had TAP Plastic make.100_0007.jpg100_0006.jpg

They are 1 inch thick and 2.25 wide with 0.75 inch missing in the middle.The front radius is 2.5 inches not 2.25 but who cares as you'll never notice it.Parallel and perpindicular and I had two made for $30
Lynn
 
Thanks Lynn. That delrin looks like a good material for a fairly lightweight set of rails. I'm still playing with various setups for one of my light guns but keep running into weight issues.

We don't have a TAP store in AZ but I now have access to a good lathe and a Bridgeport mill and am starting to do some of my own work, learning as I go. Some lightweight rails will be a good mill project. I'm also going to make myself a split barrel block to replace my glue-in.

But first the Nationals. Loading enough ammo for all those days is a chore. When I get get back I'll have more time to play with the machines. Hope I see you in Sacto.

Charles
 
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Charles
I won't be shooting because those in charge are afraid of getting whooped again but I wouldn't miss the dog and pony show for anything.My father will be shooting my guns and my wife might shoot as well.I would love to see the two of them take all of Louies prizes home while I handled all the commentary.

Here are some pictures of a 9 inch barrel block on my 50 BMG.This is a very easy to build style of block and I have the smaller ones for my lightguns as well.Note the offset of the clamping side and the crossbolts.Everything sits below the stock line so it comes out very cleanly.I shoot 250 grains of 20N29 and a 800 grain bullet and it has never slipped
Lynn
 
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Lynn,

I have a LG block like that I bought from Shehane on one of my rifles. Doesn't look like it would be all that hard to make but I'm wondering how the slot in the bottom is cut and how wide it should be.

Sorry you won't be shooting. I'm sure your Dad will do fine though and I hope he gets some wood.

Charles
 
Charles
If you promise not to laugh I'll tell you how to make that cut.
You take an ordinary circular saw and put on a 22 tooth blade.You then go down to the local hardware store and buy a toilet wax seal ring and use it as a cutting lubricant by running it on the blade.Draw a line and follow it and you have an instant perfect cut of the right width.
Lynn
 
Lynn, What size are the cross bolts ? Yes it does look like the Shehane's I have. Good design ,mine haven't moved either.
 
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I have a couple Shehanes myself and they work great.
On the ones I do I use 5/16 fine for all the hardware on the lightgun and 3/8 coarse on all the 9 inch blocks.You can use 1/4-20 without any problems but make sure your bottom bolts dont intersect with your crossbolts.
I also use a deeper base than the Shehane uses.
I don't swap stuff out that much anymore as I just build something new but if I did I would heli-coil everything.
Lynn
 
Roger
I make that decision once the stock is in my hands.I don't use escutcheons under the bottom bolts just a flat washer.I bed the larger side of the clamping type blocks only.I do that by bedding the whole area under the block then removing the dried epoxy with a dremel tool.
When you compress the part of the block that moves you will find out it shortens in height and the flat bottom is now on a slight rake.
Lynn
 
The block is bedded just not the clamping section of it.You can bed that as well I just never saw any need for it.
Lynn
 
Lynn...Thanks for the tip on cutting the slot. Keeping things simple is good for low tech guys like me.

Charles
 
Lynn,
Could you tell me material and dimensions for a Lt gun block. I sort of think some kind of aluminum as you mentioned heli coil but ? We've got 3 amateur rifle builders (not am. machinists) with no experienced help close by.

Thanks John
 
John
On a lightgun I use a 6 inch long block which means 4.5 - 6.5 inches when its finished.Length is not all that important is what I am saying.
I use aluminum I get for free at our local scrap yard and most of it is 6061.
For the hole I make it the same as the barrels outside diameter.So a 1.250 barrel gets a 1.250 hole.
For the extra material around the block my rule of thumb is 0.125 is more than enough so if your hole is 1.250 and you put 0.125 on each side your block is 1.250 + 0.125 +0.125 or 1.500 wide.
I leave 0.125 on the top as well.
You can use two 1/4-20 or 5/16 capscrews to hold it into the stock and three crossbolts is plenty.
The Kerf from the circular saw blade even on a thin blade is 0.059 so you have plenty of clamping force.
I buy large chunks of aluminum scrap and using a twist drill I maker the hole as I don't do boring bars or reamers too well.
I then chop off the extra meat with a bandsaw and have a buddy slab all the sides on his mill.
If your a machinist type don't laugh as it actually works even though it is quite primitive.Out here in California machine time is $120 an hour so any work we can save we do ourselves.
Once done I use the same anodizer as Cecil Tucker.Yep he sends all his work from Odessa,Texas to Santa Rosa,California.They get $55 for a single color and they do one batch for that price.A batch is the equivalent of a shopping cart so figure 100+ blocks can be done.We mix in airplane parts with my blocks so it comes out very cheaply.
Lynn
 
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