Chambering: indicate bore before threading and/or before reamer?

M

Mram10

Guest
I have read of a few guys that indicate, thread and then indicate again before running in the reamer. I have always indicated once in a 4 jaw then threaded and ran the reamer. Has anyone had a barrel move on them between those steps?
 
Mram10 said:
I have read of a few guys that indicate, thread and then indicate again before running in the reamer. I have always indicated once in a 4 jaw then threaded and ran the reamer. Has anyone had a barrel move on them between those steps?
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Yes, the barrel can move.

Best to indicate, ream, then thread. Its not important that the threads be dead nuts on, but it is important that the chamber be dead nuts true with the bore.

Indicate several times for an accurate chambering.


/
 
lol

JerrySharrett said:
Yes, the barrel can move.

Best to indicate, ream, then thread. Its not important that the threads be dead nuts on, but it is important that the chamber be dead nuts true with the bore.

Indicate several times for an accurate chambering.


/
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I’m curious too. I’ve heard of guys indicating multiple times, but can’t imagine the barrel moving once toques down in the 4 jaw. I use aluminum wire between the jaws and barrel.
 
I rough indicate the barrel, rough out the threads to within about .010 inch. I then indicate the barrel and establish the best chamber I can. Then I finish the tenon, set the headspace, cone, etc.

I then go back and check things.
 
I have never had a barrel move after dialing in. Every chamber gets checked and the Interapid will let me know how it turned out. If it moves, there is a problem. It's all in the setup and the guy cranking the handles...
 
jackie schmidt said:
I rough indicate the barrel, rough out the threads to within about .010 inch. I then indicate the barrel and establish the best chamber I can. Then I finish the tenon, set the headspace, cone, etc.

I then go back and check things.
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Thank you, Sir. I’ve read a lot of threads about your setups and they obviously work.
 
and remember

"Best to indicate, ream, then thread. Its not important that the threads be dead nuts on, but it is important that the chamber be dead nuts true with the bore."


Dave Tooley said:
????

I am humbled in his presence.
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Butch Lambert said:
Dave, I guess old M rap showed you. I guess when you have chambered as many barrels as he has you will understand.
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You are the worst trash talker, man. Come on, you can do better than that! I’m disappointed in you, yet again
 
I'm so happy to see Mram10 isn't all upset here...... that he'll still let Dave know "he can relax in his august presence, that he's just a normal everyday guy, just like Tooley"

Thanks so much Mram10 for saving some grace for the little people



When you are dead

You don't know you are dead

so it's hard only for others.

It is the same when you are stupid.​
 
Ohhh, and having had many barrels move while gripped with AL.....pads, wire, flatstock and milled rockers.....I will never use AL as a primary gripping surface again.

I've also used CU in these various configurations and am very happy with my latest creation wherein I run tie-wire thru 3/8" chunks of 1/4" copper tubing and after tying it to the jaws I SMASH IT onto the barrel surface. I've used the last set of wires on 7 barrels now and haven't had to replace it (which would entail a cost of 8-11min and approximately $.26)

Speaking of cost....I still have 30-40 70yr-old pennies from my lastest-bestest idea setup (not mine, from Jerry Sharrett) but I just don't have enough hands for Sharrett's method. Man must be an octopus!

LOL



That said, I DO check and while even 1/4" CU wire can move if you're not careful. I've never had pennies nor my newest tubing method move.
 
put grease on the pennies to hold them while closing the jaws.

alinwa said:
Ohhh, and having had many barrels move while gripped with AL.....pads, wire, flatstock and milled rockers.....I will never use AL as a primary gripping surface again.

I've also used CU in these various configurations and am very happy with my latest creation wherein I run tie-wire thru 3/8" chunks of 1/4" copper tubing and after tying it to the jaws I SMASH IT onto the barrel surface. I've used the last set of wires on 7 barrels now and haven't had to replace it (which would entail a cost of 8-11min and approximately $.26)

Speaking of cost....I still have 30-40 70yr-old pennies from my lastest-bestest idea setup (not mine, from Jerry Sharrett) but I just don't have enough hands for Sharrett's method. Man must be an octopus!

LOL



That said, I DO check and while even 1/4" CU wire can move if you're not careful. I've never had pennies nor my newest tubing method move.
Click to expand...
 
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