Chambering: indicate bore before threading and/or before reamer?
- Thread starter Mram10
- Start date
Ohhh there ya' go again applying REASON and LOGIC and calm rational thought!!!
Louis, it's called a "persecution complex"..... certain emotional types are captured by it, certain cultures typify, embrace and live by it. AND, to further muddy the ointment, pointing it out will get you a verbal finger-wagging from all sorts of OTHER do-gooders, mostly state workers who've misunderstood too many HR classes .
I simply acknowledge it and no longer respond with reason as a person hanging on a martyr's cross is incapable of reason, and their perspective is always "higher than thou"
It's PHYSICS...... they're ABOVE the rest of us
LOL
(for all of you from Rio Linda, or The Middle American Heartbone, that's a form of HUMOR, look it up)
I put together a little data after chambering 6 barrels in the past couple weeks. Here is my setup and what I found.
1. Using Iscar tooling, the force on the barrel was moving it a bit in the chuck. Nothing moved more than .002” , but it did move. I ground a tool with HSS and got much less movement.
2. Drilling out the chamber moved it the most. Chatter is the enemp here. I checked the bore post drilling, and it moved .001 to .003, while the outside of the barre in the unturned surface moved <.001”
1 6.5 creedmoor Rem vt taper, moved .0015”
2 6.5 creedmoor Heavy sporter barrel .000”
3 35 When heavy sporter .002”
4 300 wsm in hunter class .000”
5 270 wsm in rem vt .001”
6 30 br in Hunter class .000”
conclusion is, The lighter barrels move more in my setup, and everything needs to be checked post turning. Reducing chatter reduces movement, and using HSS over insert.
Ben
1. Using Iscar tooling, the force on the barrel was moving it a bit in the chuck. Nothing moved more than .002” , but it did move. I ground a tool with HSS and got much less movement.
2. Drilling out the chamber moved it the most. Chatter is the enemp here. I checked the bore post drilling, and it moved .001 to .003, while the outside of the barre in the unturned surface moved <.001”
1 6.5 creedmoor Rem vt taper, moved .0015”
2 6.5 creedmoor Heavy sporter barrel .000”
3 35 When heavy sporter .002”
4 300 wsm in hunter class .000”
5 270 wsm in rem vt .001”
6 30 br in Hunter class .000”
conclusion is, The lighter barrels move more in my setup, and everything needs to be checked post turning. Reducing chatter reduces movement, and using HSS over insert.
Ben
Attachments
JerrySharrett
Senile Member
I’d like to have seen how you ran the test. That is great to know. Thanks for taking the time
It’s not really a test. I just collected data from my normal checks after threading and cutting the bolt interface.
I put the indicator on three times, during barrel work, and once, facing off the action.
FWIW, the newer actions, the ones with the bar code, have been spot on. I’m not sure what remington has done, but their dimensional control is better it seems.
Ben
Using copper?
Yes.
I have copper wire in sizes from 12ga to 4Ga and have been kinda' satisfied but have had problems with shearing the smaller diameters and of course the 1/4" stuff is rough to deal with....so for the last year I've been trying copper another way..... copper line or tubing.
I figgered clearance is clearance so's I don't _need_ the 1/4" wire
So I tried some various wall thicknesses of 1/4" copper line
VICTORY!
1/2" long hunk of 1/4" copper line, thread it onto a 6-8" long piece of twist-tie wire ("bread bag twistie", "tomato tie wire") and use it over and over. NEVER moves, rock solid, and when you need a new one, it takes about 3 minutes to make one.
Best Ever
Plus it can't hook your sleeve nor nick your knuckle
I'm going to try that, I dont think T6061 is tough enough.
I've come full circle with my indication, now back to ptg rods for rough in, short stylus after facing off, indicating off the grooves. for final. I'm getting more requests for a .625x24 threaded muzzle, and I'm using just the PTG rods once I flip the barrel around.
I was using copper shim stock on that setup, maybe wire is better? Of course, the dia varies barrel to barrel with contour.
Ben
I bought a little roll of the green tomater stake wire at a box store, it comes with a cutter right on the package. snip a hunk off, run it through the piece of tubing, SMASH the tubing down tight with the 4-jaw which crimps it onto the wire, then the wires are easily wrapped onto the chuck jaws and tucked out of the way. Wnem done, throw 'em in the drawer and re-use several times until the twistie tie snaps.
Rubicon Prec.
New member
Best post in this entire thread.
Rubicon Prec.
New member
I don't use one, but the TBAS seams like one of the best solution to all the problems people are trying to solve. I like it because there is no way you are "bending" the barrel into submission.
Butch Lambert
Active member
I see a 6 jaw chuck, what am I not seeing? How do you indicate your barrel or action?
Rubicon Prec.
New member
The TBAS uses a set-true style mount but also has a ball/socket semi-sphere kind of deal to adjust angle. You can use any scroll chuck or collet chuck on it for work holding.
How do you grip non-parallel surfaces? Like a typical BR barrel?
Butch Lambert
Active member
I just saw a movie of it on a Haas TL-1 lathe. I'm not crazy about the way it indicates the barrel, Gordy method kinda?