Case sticking in Wilson Die

Apollo

Jason Stanley
I have a Wilson seater die with a Sinclair Micrometer top. Each time I run it through the arbor press, I have to use a "pick" to get the case out of the die. It is not jammed in there - but more than what I can pull out with my fingernails. Any suggestions? This is a new die with only 20 or so rounds through it.

Thanks in advance.

Stanley
 
Sticky

Your not sizing the base of the case enough. Redding small base die, or similar will cure the problem on good brass. Brass could be work hardened, and not sizing fully. Been there.

...Dave
 
Pretty Common

Before Centerfire Benchrest Shooters discovered Full Length Sizing, this was a common occurance. I polished a tad out of several dies for friends to eliminate the problem.

Also, about ten years ago, there were some reamers floating around that made a chamber that was as much as .002 larger at the web. This caused problems in the 'generic" Wilson when shooters neck sized only.

But, as was said, a proper full length die will size the case down enough to allow the case to enter, and exit, with no hassle..........jackie
 
Lynn

It sounds like your die has a different problem than the one I am speaking of. In the senario I was talking about, the case was simply too large for the die body after firing.

In your senario, I suppose drilling a small air bleed hole just above the neck would cure your problem.

When using the Wison Die I modified for my 30PPC, I have to do the same thing you do. I pull the stem up about 1/2 way and the case releases........jackie
 
I have a Wilson seater die with a Sinclair Micrometer top. Each time I run it through the arbor press, I have to use a "pick" to get the case out of the die. It is not jammed in there - but more than what I can pull out with my fingernails. Any suggestions? This is a new die with only 20 or so rounds through it.

Thanks in advance.

Stanley

I had the same trouble until I realized that I wasn't bumping the shoulder quite far enough. One minor adjustsment and the cases fell out of the die.
 
If you send your seater body to Wilson with a few cases they will polish out your body to fit your cases for no charge except I think they ask for $6 or $7 dollars (I can't remember exact amount)for shipping it back to you .

Rodney
 
Apollo

I had the same issue. I was not aware at the time you could send it to Wilson and have them polish out the die (probably would have been the better way to go). Anyways, I took a scrap cartridge, chucked it into my drill, wrapped a thin strip of very fine sand paper around it, and started "polishing" the die. I checked it with my caliper every 10-20 rotations until I got the desired result. I'm sure the machinist out there are cringing at my solution, but I have access to very limited machinery. It worked for me and I haven't got a piece of brass stuck since. :)

Good Luck,
Nick
 
Thanks for all the replies. I will check with Wilson to see how long it takes to get it back. Wrong time of the year for me to be sending in my seater die. (I should have found this out earlier). I use a Harrel(sp) FL bushing die. Not sure on the # (From what I was told - he has 3 different ones - all resizing just a little different?) As of now, I have it set up to bump the shoulder back .001 - .0015 (can't measure any closer than that). This was done by "feel" and checked with a chamber gauge. Both produced the same result - so I use the chamber guage - my "feeler" gauge is wrong sometimes. Thanks for all the replies - I will check with Wilson.

Stanley
 
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I had the same issue. I was not aware at the time you could send it to Wilson and have them polish out the die (probably would have been the better way to go). Anyways, I took a scrap cartridge, chucked it into my drill, wrapped a thin strip of very fine sand paper around it, and started "polishing" the die. I checked it with my caliper every 10-20 rotations until I got the desired result. I'm sure the machinist out there are cringing at my solution, but I have access to very limited machinery. It worked for me and I haven't got a piece of brass stuck since. :)

Good Luck,
Nick


nick,

you may not want to hear this but if you sent off 100 dies to 100 machinists who've done this before......... GOOD machinists......... 99/100 of them would polish the die out, not machine it in any way.

As per your method of polishing, it's important to let the die slip or rotate evenly in your hands or a counter-rotating holder. Other than that it's a good way. I've used Clover lapping compound on a case too.

al
 
I've lapped several Wilson seating dies that had this same issue.

I use an appropriately sized bore mop (chamber swab) and load it up with some 400 gr. valve lapping compound, chuck it in a drill and lap away...pulling the bore mop in and out slowly as it's spinning. After 5-6 cycles, I dunk it in some mineral spirits to clean it up and try the case in it. When I get to where I want to be, I finish lap it with some JB paste. Takes about 10 minutes start to finish. :) -Al
 
Apollo

How would you like a favor.

Send me your die, and a few fired cases that are too tight, and I will polish it out and solve your problem.

Consider it a favor from a fellow shooter.

Jackie Schmidt
c/o R.C. Schmidt & Sons
1215 Akron St
Houston, Tx 77029

you can send me a check to cover the return shipping...........jackie
 
I solved the same problem on my Wilson 30BR seater by running the chamber reamer in .312" deeper and cutting off the bottom of the seater leaving the chamber (in the die) about .025" deeper than my max case length..it works perfect....and my seater now has a .330" neck like my chamber and improves bullet alignment (run-out)...I actually prefer it over the sloppy neck fit of the standard Wilson 30BR seater...Best of all NO Sticking...

Just my 3 cents worth..:rolleyes:
 
Thanks for all the replies. Not sure on the # (From what I was told - he has 3 different ones - all resizing just a little different?) As of now, I have it set up to bump the shoulder back .001 - .0015 (can't measure any closer than that).
Stanley

The Harrell's die will have a number on the base. The #3 is the smallest of their standard f/l dies.

Most times this sticky case problem is caused by an oversized chamber. Many, many chambers out there are 0.003"-0.005" oversized.

If you are shooting a 6PPC carefully measure about 1/16" below the end of
the radius where the shoulder joins the body. If that dimension is over
0.432" and/or the dimension about 3/32" above the extraction groove is over
0..441" then you may have an oversized chamber.

Your f/l die should reduce the shoulder/body dimension by a NET amount of 0.0015" minimum and should reduce the base at the measuring point by at least 0.0005" to have proper chambering and extraction. A reduction of slightly over these dimensions is acceptable.

Most oversize chambers are caused by some of the so-called "floating" reamer holders being used.
 
Apollo, I've had the same problem, two very simple things helped me a lot, first and you may have already done this, take a couple patchs wet with solvent and clean the die, second, after you have seated the bullet pick the die up in your hand, and lift the stem slightly, and then let it ste back down, it breaks the air seal sometimes. If neither of these do it then you need to do other fixes.
 
I will try cleaning the die and seeing if I can break the air seal. If that doesn't work - I might take you (Jackie) up on the very kind offer. If I do mail the die - I assume you don't need the micrometer top and/or the "platform" - just the die body correct?

I have the seating depth part of my load development to work on yet, but I could load them up and mail the die if needed. (I get kinda nervous letting loaded rounds sit for my competition rifle - don't want things to change on me) Not sure if it matters, but it is a 30BR die with the cases being shot in a BAT 3 Lug action.

Thanks again for all the replies and tips.

Stanley
 
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Wilson's turn around time

I had the same problem and returned the die to wilson (just the body). I sent it and the $6.25 fee via priority mail. Wilson had it back in my mail box on the 5th business day! Talk about service!!!
 
I will check with Wilson to see how long it takes to get it back.

Stanley

I've done this several times. Use Priority Mail to send it to them (along with three fired cases) and you will have it back in 10 days or less.
 
Ditto on wilson's service. Have never had to have it done with PPC but have sent other calibers seaters in. Fast, cheap and more importantly....when you get them back...there correct.

Hovis
 
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