Bullet swaging questions.
- Thread starter JDBraddy
- Start date
antelopedundee
internet bum
So what would be a more appropriate descriptor?
adamsgt
Jerry Adams
Sounds like there's a fair amount of magic and fairy dust involved in getting good bullet dies.
antelopedundee
internet bum
How different can a replacement die be and still produce the same bullet that the bullet maker was making previously? Could the top shooters tell the difference between the two if given a box of each?
That,s a very demanding question , when you think about it all it might take is a differente lot of jackets,s and thing,s change.
Eddie Harren
Member
"Sounds like there's a fair amount of magic and fairy dust involved in getting good bullet dies"
The response suggesting contacting George Ulrich or Dave Detsch was the answer to your statement.
The response suggesting contacting George Ulrich or Dave Detsch was the answer to your statement.
Joe Duke
Active member
It seems to me that really good bullet making dies are probably a lot like hummer barrels in many ways. Most of them will make good bullets with a few making really great bullets. One difference is that a set of hummer carbide dies will make several million bullets before showing appreciable wear if taken good care of.
Then comes components. Some lots of jackets make good bullets and some do not. It doesn't matter how good the dies or the bullet maker are; if the jackets or core material are not right, the bullets won't be good.
And next there is the skill of the bullet maker as well. Most anyone, me included can make a pretty good bullet. But a few can make really good bullets.
When a good set of dies come together with a skilled bullet maker and excellent components, the result is outstanding. It is amazing to me how many really good bullets we have available to us at the present time.
My hat is off to those who can and do make the bullets that we shoot.
Joe
Then comes components. Some lots of jackets make good bullets and some do not. It doesn't matter how good the dies or the bullet maker are; if the jackets or core material are not right, the bullets won't be good.
And next there is the skill of the bullet maker as well. Most anyone, me included can make a pretty good bullet. But a few can make really good bullets.
When a good set of dies come together with a skilled bullet maker and excellent components, the result is outstanding. It is amazing to me how many really good bullets we have available to us at the present time.
My hat is off to those who can and do make the bullets that we shoot.
Joe
R.G. Robinett
"That'll never work."
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Start. Not finish.
They have well made presses even if their dies are not always up to snuff for BR.
Better to start off with moderate priced equipment and then decide if you really want to continue.
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Dave Coots
64 Chevy 409 10.42 129
The old adage applies
Buy once, cry once. Purchase the best equipment you can afford after doing due diligence. Talk to enough people until you get confused.
You'll find there are lots of ways to skin this cat. Nothing wrong with used presses ect.
Later
Dave
Buy once, cry once. Purchase the best equipment you can afford after doing due diligence. Talk to enough people until you get confused.
You'll find there are lots of ways to skin this cat. Nothing wrong with used presses ect.Later
Dave
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antelopedundee
internet bum
If you buy the best dies and use them very little, how much of your investment can you expect to recover if you sell?
Can used dies be refurbished?
geo.ulrich
Member
A few answers to your questions. Buying good dies and not using you should be able to recoup most of your hard earned dollars. I see some used dies for sale without a history on them trying to be sold for more than new dies cost. Never could figure that out. Used dies are a good consideration for starting less expensive if you can have them checked by a competent bullet maker and someone is not just unloading wore out junk or if they have issues. If your not into a higher volume I would look into Larry Blackmans steel dies price is good dies are fine except they are steel. I would not refer anyone to corbin dies or presses they are way to much for what you are getting quality wise for the prices you will pay you would almost be into carbide and a whole bunch straighter...next can old dies be repaired that's kind of a loaded question, yes I have reset the insert and made the die smaller but its not something I like doing. If I screw up dies mine . so a case by case would be best....hope this helps....
antelopedundee
internet bum
Thanks for the info.
Hi guys
New on the site and looking for help.
I just started producing my own projectiles using carbide dies.
One problem I'm facing is that the projectile gets stuck in the BT punch rather than being expelled by the ejector pin.
In the core seating step I am applying good pressure, getting to the point of forming a shiny ring at the lead level.
But it didn't solve.
Punches with smaller diameter also did not solve.
My lube is 60% lanolin and 40% castor oil. 10 grains for 1000 jackets 308 caliber 1.150" length.
What Im doing wrong?
Thanks
New on the site and looking for help.
I just started producing my own projectiles using carbide dies.
One problem I'm facing is that the projectile gets stuck in the BT punch rather than being expelled by the ejector pin.
In the core seating step I am applying good pressure, getting to the point of forming a shiny ring at the lead level.
But it didn't solve.
Punches with smaller diameter also did not solve.
My lube is 60% lanolin and 40% castor oil. 10 grains for 1000 jackets 308 caliber 1.150" length.
What Im doing wrong?
Thanks
Lee Martin
Active member
By "BT punch" I assume you mean the point die? Lube isn't your problem. In fact, you're using way too much in my opinion. I use 2.0 grs of pure anhydrous lanolin for 1,000 .30 cals on 0.925" jackets (and 2.0 grs is on the high side). Try screwing the die down a bit. The tip may not be closed enough before it contacts the ejection pin.
-Lee
www.singleactions.com
-Lee
www.singleactions.com
Lee
Lot of questions....
After seating the core in the BT forming die, I go to third die, who is the pointing up.
The punch that pushes the projectille into the point up die( Not sure about the correct name)
Do you notice any difference in core weight uniformity using pure lead compared to 1% antimony alloy?
What can be considered a good standard of variation for core with weight of 110 grains?
Thanks
Lot of questions....
After seating the core in the BT forming die, I go to third die, who is the pointing up.
The punch that pushes the projectille into the point up die( Not sure about the correct name)
Do you notice any difference in core weight uniformity using pure lead compared to 1% antimony alloy?
What can be considered a good standard of variation for core with weight of 110 grains?
Thanks
R.G. Robinett
"That'll never work."
I agree with Lee (post # 38) - that is, way too much lube. Reducing lube may help the die-walls, "hold onto the bullet", while the point-up punch releases [from], or, is pulled off the BT. Also, sometimes, the BT point-up punch will respond to lightly polishing the BT punch cavity. I use optical grade super-fine polish, applied to the BT of a pointed bullet, while the punch is turning in the lathe - it doesn't take much. RG