bullet seating questions

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OlRounder

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I have a 6mm .22 ackley imp. Rem 700 LA. custom barrel...I can't really get the groups that I desire from it , shooting under an inch at 100yd but no better than that. also I am having trouble bringing hi and low velocity to an accdeptable spread.velocity spreads with .001 to the lands gets under 20FPS vari. but with a few oddballs.Oddballs as in 7 shots inside 20FPS then one just out of this group, slower only by a few FPS, then two 20 FPS faster than the main group.overall a spread of about 44FPS... Maybe I need to sort brass this way? shoot and cull the oddballs?
Heres what I've done so far.
Shooting an 80 gr. sierra MK with win brass that I trim to a uniform length then true flash hole and primer pocket.42gr of RL22( also tryed 43 gr. but had the same variations with similar groups) and Rem primers.
I've tryed seating bullets with a small amount of freerun into the lands and that gets the best groups. Also tryed seating a few thousandths into the lands. seams to enlarge group but only very slightly.neither seating length seems to change the velocity variation. I would like to get a better group and be able to bring these velo. variations down becouse I would like to shoot long distances with this rig. I've3 only shot at long distance once and was pleased with it. This was only three shots at 600yds though.
Any help from someone more experienced than me would be great.
 
What type of dies are you using? Have you checked concentricity of the loaded rounds? I am sure someone else here can better answer this question than me. So many variables:)
 
I don't have the equip. to turn necks or messure for it.
I have redding dies. nothing special. I have sorted brass by weight and bullets too. Also would anyone think maybe match grade primers would help??? Yes so may variables.
 
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What sort of bedding? How do you clean it? What is the trigger pull weight? What sort of rest are you shooting off of? How do your other rifles shoot?
 
No ,no other powders or primers...This load is very close to what the rifle builder uses.
He has had some success at 1000yd with it. Whats the best way to find a compairable powder load for a different powder? Info for this wildcat is virtually none existant. I do think trying better primers could be a great idea.

I haven't ever shot any distance like this before. So trying to get the velocity differences down is new to me. Trigger weight, while not ounces like a bench gun is very light.
Its bedded at the front of the action on epoxy compound and at the rear on aluminium in this stock. free floated from chamber area forward.
 
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I'm always inclined as a first case to have a good look at ignition when I get problrms like this. This could include:

  • Inconsistent primer seating. If you seat your primers off about any press, there's every chance that you will end up with variable primer seating depth/crush. Even with a good hand seater, you can still run into issues if, like me, you have a bit of arthritis in the hand that reduces your sensitivity about when the primer has bottomed out.
  • Crud in your bolt like old hardened grease, or worse still a blank from a pierced primer can mess up consistent firing pin travel & give variable ignition.
  • There's always the possibility that your firing pin protrusion is out of spec. Pins on older actions can wear some & shorten effective travel.
  • Sizing the case body much more that needed to just permit the brass to chamber without effort can lead to the primer being too far away fromn the pin or the pin's energy being dissipated pushing the case forward into battery, reducing the pin stroke, probably in an inconsistent manner. Mixing brass can cause the same issue.
  • Sometimes your firing pin spring is worn out to the extent that it works usefully most, but not all the time.
 
John Kielly said:
I'm always inclined as a first case to have a good look at ignition when I get problrms like this. This could include:

  • Inconsistent primer seating. If you seat your primers off about any press, there's every chance that you will end up with variable primer seating depth/crush. Even with a good hand seater, you can still run into issues if, like me, you have a bit of arthritis in the hand that reduces your sensitivity about when the primer has bottomed out.
  • Crud in your bolt like old hardened grease, or worse still a blank from a pierced primer can mess up consistent firing pin travel & give variable ignition.
  • There's always the possibility that your firing pin protrusion is out of spec. Pins on older actions can wear some & shorten effective travel.
  • Sizing the case body much more that needed to just permit the brass to chamber without effort can lead to the primer being too far away fromn the pin or the pin's energy being dissipated pushing the case forward into battery, reducing the pin stroke, probably in an inconsistent manner. Mixing brass can cause the same issue.
  • Sometimes your firing pin spring is worn out to the extent that it works usefully most, but not all the time.
Click to expand...

These are fireformed cases of the same company and lot...necksized only.
As far as ignition goes I have trued primer pockets and flash holes. I am seating primers with a lee hand tool.
 
22-6mm

I have a 22-6mm, not the Ackley, but, my groups were cut in half using R22 when I went to a Mag primer. It's worth a try
 
I WILL try that diporter, thanks. I kind of think primers are a good part of this. Primers were hard to find here this winter and Rem large rifle is what I'm using...not the best choice i think.
 
OlRounder,

I have no experience with your cartridge but Lonnie Hummel at Hornaday has shot it for many years (although Im sure with Hornaday bullets). Give Lonnie a call at Hornaday. I'm sure he can give you much insight in addition to "switch to Hornaday bullets".

Greg
 
There may be 100's of reasons why your gun doesn't shoot as you
want it to. First of many, Cartridges in that category with long for the
caliber bullets and big doses of slow powder tend to foul barrels quickly.
Some serious dedication to cleaning is a good place to begin. If accuracy
has faded , you may need to count your empties as that probably has a short
barrel life. If its still young and never shot well, That calls for a different
approach.
 
First of all, I am not encouraged by your account of how the rifle is bedded. What you described does not comport with my idea of a complete bedding job. Secondly, what was done to the action when the barreling was done? Also, specifically, what barrel was used?
 
Went and shot this rifle again today. same loads generally. shot some with mag primers, they were OK with a few odd ones as per ussuall.
First oh seven or eight shots were great, first three from cold clean barrel were VERY good.(maybe 5/16 to 3/8th) I talked to the rifles builder today, he shoots more powder than I am.
Velocities were very good and climbed as the barrel warmed, still with some "flyers".
I think the rifle does need to be rebedded.Also a powder higher powder charge may help to moderate the velo. variance.Any thoughts on that???
Rifle is a rem 700 LA. lugs lapped but other than that...stock. Barrel is a 1-8 three groove lilja, not really heavy, muzzle is about 3/4 of an inch...this rifle isn't built like a bench gun but maybe more like a varmint rifle. If I didn't have thoughts of shooting at loger ranges I would be happy with it as it performes now.
 
JMO if it starts out shooting tight from a clean barrel and accuracy falls off fast I'd suspect you need a cleaner burning powder.
 
I will chime in on this one because I have the same gun and had some of the same problems you have.
I have not checked velocities with mine as of yet but I can tell you what I have done.
I have a Rem Long Action that has a full bed job in a Bell & Carlson Medalist stock. I shot the Sierra 80gr Match Kings with RE22 and Fed match primers. I don't have the info here in front of me so I can't give the charge. I was getting around .75 @ 200 yards with a flyer here and there. Could be me but let’s say for sake of argument it is not. I could not improve on it. I tried different primers and did a little better with CCI 250's.
I finally tried the Sierra 77gr Match Kings with RE22 and CCI 250's. The groups were more consistent.
I started looking at the book and to make a long story a little shorter I have finally found that H1000 with 77gr Sierra Match Kings and CCI 250's were shooting very consistent groups and was in the .50 @ 200 yds.
I have not had any time to check velocity yet but I plan to next chance I get.
As far as my action, it has the receiver face trued and the lugs lapped, that was all. The trigger is only at 2.5lbs.

These guys are right, the barrel life on this chamber is not very long so good luck on finding the right mix sooner than later.


Hope this helps.

Tim
 
Thanks Signguy, yea I came here for some help so I might not go through a barrel before I can just take it and shoot like I want. I may try the 77grs...
 
Others might chime in and say different. But seating depth will paly a part too.
I have been reading that these long bullets like a jump.
I have been shooting @ .010 off the lands but some say way more, even up to .050 or .060! I just have not had time to play with this gun as much as I wish to.

Good Luck.

Tim
 
22-6mm

I have a Remington 700 with a 22-6mm chamber and a Brux barrel. On a nice condition day it has shot three-shot groups in the .3s and five-shot groups in the .4s at 300 yards. I tried two other bullets and then tried the 70-grain Berger VLD, and the groups immediately cut in half. I use 47 grains of 4831SC and Winchester brass. Velocity is 3640 FPS. 200 rounds and fire-cracking begins to be visible with a bore scope, so you better get it right quick.
 
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